3below

I am not sure if there are any 'non invasive' solutions. It will be fixable with fretboard removal, truss rod replacement and subsequent fretboard re-attachment. There is a recent thread on BC where another Warwick had similar issues. I am now avoiding the truss rod adjustments on mne.

Used many, many times. They have been excellent, they have been around for a fair while.

A while back I purchased a K&K pre amp and bass pickup set from this parish. The plastic label on the pre-amp was serviceable but looking a little tired. Mail to K&K in USA, resulted in very helpful and positive replies, "however, it is an older model, we will have a look". Further same day email communication, we have one, will post. A week later the "last one" replacement plastic label arrives in UK - free gratis. Excellent customer service above and beyond.

Looks like an excellent short scale bass. At that price the value for money is outstanding.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1458917290' post='3012111'] Weirdly I've noticed on every bass I've had, and they have all been fairly different that I've always dialled in pretty much the same kind of tone and I don't vary much from that. No two basses are quite the same but long as there capable of a good basic well rounded tone I'm happy. [/quote] +1 Somehow I seem to make nearly all of my basses sound very similar. This encompasses active, passive, EMGs, etc etc. Physically they play differently, respond differently, some are more rewarding than others. Some record better than others (= more easily, less faff - Gibson SG, just DI in, add small amount of compression - result) but in a live gig at any volume that involves a drummer, all subtlety and nuance is lost IMO. Bass into PA combined with venue acoustics throws yet another set of factors.

Resist the temptation. There are two things to do: Sell your stingray, find and purchase a natural finish one. Which way you do this depends on your circumstances, of which you are the best judge. In other related news I brought another bass in today and divorce proceedings not started - yet.

[quote name='alembic1989' timestamp='1458751361' post='3010527'] My customised Kramer fretless. [url="http://s817.photobucket.com/user/23basslord/media/DSCF9325-1.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] If a 'new' 'trendy' company built that now I can not begin to imagine the eyewatering price tags that might be possible. Great looking bass, but I like 'brown wood' basses (have hidden French decor tastes).

Bought a bass body from Dan. Excellent communication and he will go the extra mile. Thanks.

Libraries great places. My mum was librarian as well. Political point: enjoy them while they still exist, austerity 2 / 3 / 4 ? is on the way.

These basses fall into almost unobtanium. I doubt if I could ever replace mine (unless paying megabucks). So though not cheap they are a once in a lifetime purchase these days IMO. I will not disclose what I paid for mine on BC, other than to say 1980s Fenders seem nuts money in comparison.

Many years ago I had a John Birch EB3 bass (serious neck diver). This had the strap button on the upper horn, back inside chamfer. did not help the neck dive. Current SG bass has the neck heel location and does exactly what yours does, same issues using strap lock as well. With my 'older' man profile I quite like the way it tilts the bass away from me. It places less twist (hence carpal stress) on left hand wrist. This is not much help really

[quote name='colgraff' timestamp='1458510634' post='3008260'] Try aimless noodling on that! [/quote] I suspect aimless noodling would be all I could manage - at 5'3" it will be a vertical challenge

Berlingo, way to big, had my db and kit in Nissan Micra. These days is no problem, you just need a MAN truck [url="http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/view_large.php?ad=69608&cat=4"]http://www.milweb.ne...?ad=69608&cat=4[/url]

[quote name='bassmachine2112' timestamp='1458379526' post='3007040'] I will not fanny about. Playing with drummer and guitar-500 watt minimum and a good efficient cab. It,s all about headroom and you might need it later on,buy once and enjoy,oh and you can turn the volume down if needed. I,ll get shot down in flames for this but just saying [/quote] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]No flames here, I was (half) jokingly going to say 1KW, pragmatically I just use my 700W head for all situations. Small cab (custom Shermann audio 15", 6" + horn) for portability, Barefaced Dubster 2 x 15 (the destroyer of worlds) for greater heft. How did we ever manage with 100W PAs and amplifiers.[/color][/font]

DMZ 4001 in my possession. Virtually thes ame as yours but with P bass pickup and maple body. Heavy and a slight neck diver. Clarity of sound excellent and the string response is like no other bass I have owned, it almost 'plays itself' with TI flats. No tuning issues in hot to cold gigs. I drilled slightly deeper string holes under the bridge so that I could slip a spacer onto the ball end of strings and ensure the silks were not on the saddles.

Chinese corvette rockbass, Peavey Milestone III jazz type. S/H knock down bargains.

Based on the 6 degrees of separation theory, through BC we should be able to track him down. The first inductee into the BC hall of fame / shame?

Had a Rockbass Corvette fretless 5 stringer. Quality 10/10, sound 10/10, playability 10/10. Currently have Rockbass Corvette 4 string (Also have two german ones for comparison). As before on quality, sound and playability. The newer ones have the two part bridge, mixed blessing, the 'traditional' BBOT Fender bridge is more than adequate. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] €[/font][/color]250 seems ok, try for [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] €200.[/font][/color] I like my German ones, the Chinese one is different but just as good and if it was stolen / damaged is of no consequence, replacement is cheap

You will not be disappointed. Nice to have the width to match the amp head.

To my way of thinking your plan is good. Your belt sander with some form of jig to help present the bridge square onto the sander seems a good way to proceed as you suggest. Some advice on Internet suggests that removing string tension (to remove bridge) can lead to soundpost moving (or worse, dislodging). I have no experience to judge this either way so would advise caution. Keep bass on back and do not move much until restrung. I have just purchased an adjustable maple bridge (with two! soundposts included, why?), Ebay £11 or so. Disaster is not the end of the world unless your bridge is very high quality etc.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1457637496' post='3000540'] .....As for the previous replies, they would be accurate if the Bassman was a SS amp, but it isn't. [/quote] Age and experience both of which I place myself in. Sense and sanity are another set of issues

Soft and flexible yet able to take hard playing - TI flats or Chromes. I am very partial to TIs, they last forever, > 8 years on one bass. With the durability comes the added bonus of getting them s/h via bc I have them on short, intermediate and full 34" basses. All is good.