3below

AC/DC - ride on - guitar just rolls like waves in sea (no comments about my mental state please) Free - Mr Big - timing and feel drums and guitar Time the revelator - Gillian Welch - discords

Purchased a pre amp from Paul.. Excellent communication, brilliant packing and very rapid arrival. Thanks.

If you are getting new tubes fitted etc seems good to get tech to check & sort it all out. I know of the auction you refer to, you did well.

[quote name='johnnysomersett' timestamp='1449091688' post='2920781'] Not that Im' any good at reading schematics, but, from what little I know about internals of amps, the B+ is the voltage across the tubes right? So likely an issue connected with said old sh*tty Peavey-branded tubes? [/quote] You are correct with B+ (or HT in British money). It could be tube issues - tubes, tube sockets, assorted resistors to achieve HT voltages, could be capacitors or diodes in power supply, could be failed solder connection or insulation somewhere. There, that narrowed it down (not). Open it up, have a look for anything obvious - burned / charred (or even destroyed) components. It might be a simple (cheap diy) fix. Remember the smoothing capacitors may be charged and can give serious electric shock. Yours was NOS, is there another one?

[url="http://www.hartsafire.com/classic400/"]http://www.hartsafire.com/classic400/[/url] has schematics and some interesting info. The only 2A slow blow fuse (at a quick glance) is on the main PSU for the HT (B+). Looks like a great amp, I think I want one - I like older Peavey kit, it is repairable, the schematics are easy to find and support at Peavey is excellent. I asked some 'left field' questions about early valve amp transformers and got excellent technical answers very quickly.

Try 'stuff' and see what works. I found my Peavey 700 transistor amp to be much more to my taste than the VBA 400 I also had at the same time. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Tech21 VT DI is very impressive, I would like the Hiwatt equivalent. Most impressive amp (not bass) I have tried recently - a Stagg transistor practice amp, instant with cheapo tele copy and rusty strings. I would say better than my fender valve amp and USA tele. YMMV go figure.[/font][/color]

Has anyone tried one of these through a 'good' amp / cab ?

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1448620660' post='2916865'] ...... I have realised however that I have mixed some ill advised metaphors, and wouldn't recommend using a polished turd as kindling [/quote] And on this very point I wish I could remember the statistic about just how much worldwide energy is obtained by burning dried dung. From the wonder of wikipedia: [color=#252525][font=sans-serif] The benefits of using dry animal dung include:[sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_animal_dung_fuel#cite_note-3"][3][/url][/sup][/font][/color][list] [*]Cheaper than most modern fuels [*]Efficient [*]Alleviates local pressure on wood resources [*]Readily available - short walking time required to collect fuel [*]No cash outlays necessary for purchase (can be exchanged for other products) [*]Less environmental pollution [*]Safer disposal of animal dung [*]Sustainable and renewable energy source [/list] The metaphor seems firmly based in fact and thus not ill advised OTOH, Stagg basses as kindling would be rather pricey.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1448560806' post='2916500'] If you squint and take some drugs it almost links like an Alembic [/quote] Finished in 'brown' natural wood shade and with the pickup further towards the neck we could be getting there.

Strings from Chris arrived quickly. Well packed and excellent communication. Thanks.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1448212538' post='2913700'] There's only one, rather useless picture. I wonder what he discovered after half-way stripping the bass, that made him decide to take it no further? [/quote] The challenge of removing polyester and then getting a good finish afterward ?

Copydex or PVA glue (white woodworking glue) are also alternatives if threadloc is not readily available.

Once we have a picture, ideally in the fault condition support will be available

Time I thought a bit more about the BBoT again, have had too much work since retiring early

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1447511926' post='2908204'] On the matter of cutting the holes for the port tubes, I bought an adjustable hole cutter recently for less than a fiver which may not be the last word in pro tools, but will do the job perfectly well. It might take a few tries on some scrap pieces of wood to get the size spot-on, but it's not too difficult to do. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handy-Adjustable-Metal-Hole-Saw-Round-Circle-Cutter-DIY-Tools-Accessory-/252069704389"]http://www.ebay.co.u...y-/252069704389[/url] [/quote] These work well (I have one) but I personally would only use it in a pillar drill at low speed. I have not had a close shave with mine . Some do have a safety guard, it would be quite easy to make a guard (for non-professional occasional use) using a plastic food tub.

Pickup coils encased in black epoxy resin. Cover fixed to coils by same resin. Pickup windings very near surface of epoxy. It does not come apart in any healthy way.

[quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1447014006' post='2904199'] When my head was moving forward off the cab, it was the left side moving forward rather than the right side, and that's the side of the speaker that wasn't screwed down. As the screw holes of the speaker overlap the screw holes in the baffle (but don't line up), what would be the best way to secure the speaker in place? [/quote] T nuts will be the usual method since you can not access the back of the speakers. Pictures if poss to show the non lining up would help. You may need to glue dowels into the existing holes and redrill to fit new T nuts in correct place.

This sounds promising (pun unintended). My experience of Peavey cabs (early stuff, can not comment on newer kit) is that they are built like the proverbial outhouse. I unwittingly destroyed a BW driver when the cone to frame glue joint failed (old age). If I had been a bit more astute I could have saved the driver with Copydex as suggested above.

Sansamp is a good solution in that you can also eq the two basses and store settings. This might make switch over between the two basses even easier. I am very impressed with my Sansamp vt dl.

With some simple woodwork it will be possible to make a mount to support P bass pickup on the end of fingerboard. Essentially a flat piece of plywood or similar that is the width and profile of the fingerboard and say 20cm long, extending another 3~ 4 cm beyond end of fingerboard. Make another piece of wood that is an inclined wedge shape /\ at suitable angles and size to match fingerboard radius and support the P bass pickup. Glue this at the end of the plywood slab. Screw P bass pickup onto /\ wedge. The whole slab can be fixed to fingerboard with cable ties ( I do not like the schaller pickup method of screwing into the side of fingerboard). P bass pickups with output: DiMarzio and G&L SB1 type.

Time to get some bracing material and trial fit it. See what happens

You have the answer courtesy of BFM. Having built a BFM cab the method is easy to carry out and works well. You can even glue the bracing strips to each other. My Barefaced cabs had/have a similar but simpler arrangement. How much you need and exactly where can be established by trial and error - just fit the strips / dowels as an interference fit The metal strip is stapled (memory again so may be wrong) to the side of the wooden grille frame. Agree this would not be making the head move, just a possible source of annoying vibration.