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3below

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Everything posted by 3below

  1. [quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1446455545' post='2899401'] I'll check the metal side stripes on the grille as they don't seem to be secured to anything at the front so it's possible they're vibrating. [/quote] Metal side strips on my old Peavey did just that. I seem to remember wedging them with sticky velcro or some such. The whole grille frame and metal sides were velcroed (or something like that) onto the baffle. It needs to be pushed quite firmly on from memory.
  2. I finished the oak edging of my self built kitchen tops with Danish oil followed by BriWax. Ten years later it is still looking good (despite cleaning with damp cloth etc) though it might benefit from a fresh application.
  3. Many thanks. A serious bargain for the money - If it had been 19mm or thereabouts
  4. Through the wonder of the internet have found that the scale length is 34". What is the string spacing at the bridge?. Great looking bass
  5. G&L SB1 or SB2. SB1 is like a P on steroids (with a body that has been slimmed down). Cheap alternative s/h Peavey milestone, fit P pickup of choice - Wizard, seymour-Duncan, EMG, Entwistle.
  6. [quote name='davehux' timestamp='1446211211' post='2897762'] Awaiting the arrival of an Ampeg SVT3 Pro, in an ally flight case, that had a BIN price so low that it took me all of 3 seconds to blink and then click the button [/quote] Saw that one, thought about it and then decided I have two full bass rigs (big and small). I resisted. Congrats on good purchase. It is getting to the point that you can have a 'good' bass rig lying around in your various haunts now they are cheap as chips
  7. Quick look at the well known internet auction site will point you in the right direction. Might be simpler to get liquid Titebond version. You can even make your own using a dog chew, [url="http://woodtrekker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/how-to-make-hide-glue.html"]http://woodtrekker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/how-to-make-hide-glue.html[/url] it looks like a long process but if you have the cooker on for a stew etc. why not. When my db was repaired linseed oil was rubbed on the repair (when set) which hid the repair surprisingly well. Shellac is also useful for small repair touch ups.
  8. An easy repair and if you are not going DY should not be too expensive.
  9. There is some seriously good value kit appearing on a regular basis. In addition there is a lot of really good quality 'budget' kit these days. This puts the squeeze on 'higher quality' kit. There is also a vast amount of kit around (not just BC). Officially the recession may be over however money is short, public sector pay freeze (cut in reality) has not helped. Concur with OP, [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]A) people have no cash and [/font][/color][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]C) there is too much out there. I will add E) quality / playability no longer costs. For me E) is the game changer: Most basses are becoming 'white goods'. CNC manufactured with immense quality control at basement prices. I have in my possession a Peavey milestone bass with EMGs - £110 s/h. I am hard pressed to see the quality / playability difference with my 'professional' USA and German basses. Bit like cars these days, I used to buy German, Swedish then Japanese. Now I buy 5 or 7 year 100K + miles warranty with most of the quality and all of the safety.[/color][/font]
  10. Blues standard, "Good Morning, School Girl" potentially dubious lyrics in some versions, other versions avoid the 'issue' ; Good mornin' little schoolgirl Can I go home with you Tell your mama and your daddy That I'm a little school boy too ................
  11. [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1445797782' post='2894304'] Could be more than a new neck judging by eBay prices! [/quote] This could well be the case DIY is possible but this requires tools, at the very least a flat file / stone and detail sanding stick.
  12. How much of a curve and is it making the bass 'unplayable'? If it is a small curve (straight edge and judgement needed) then fret levelling and recrown may be sufficient.
  13. Some older Peavey basses feature the same bi-cut construction as well.
  14. [quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1445636284' post='2893107'] And then get another of the same cab to run with it. I know from when I started power ratings on chassis' were a very iffy process so I never take as gospel power ratings, tbh. I agree that that is a historical 'fear' but still think it applies... And you'll like the sound bonus of a pair, I'm sure. [/quote] Likewise, when I started (in the dim and distant pass) the rule of thumb was speaker power should be 2x amplifier power. When Celestion or Fane 12" speakers were rated at 25 or 30W each the result was using two 4x12 cabinets for the Marshall or Hiwatt 100W head.
  15. [quote name='Shaggy' timestamp='1445534468' post='2892258'] Love my Kramer 650B, and this seems truly bargainaceous - I've seen the necks go for more than that Not just tonally great, but necks are zero-maintenance, no truss rod to faff about with Lumie bump [/quote] Ditto my DMZ4001. Am getting tempted with the thought of a custom body for this neck. Someone should save me from this.
  16. What is the scale length on this model? Are the neck wood inserts black painted or brown/dark varnish finish?
  17. ex 112 claims 300W (no idea if this is thermal or excursion power). TH 500 claims 500W at 4 Ohms. Halfway on amp is anyone's guess. Does 5 on markers mean 250W power, 1/2 max loudness or what. How accurate are the markers? The 'mild burning smell' was probably the insulation melting / degrading on the speaker coil, bad news To test, get a multimeter and measure dc resistance of speaker. 2.7 to 3.3 Ohms is in the ball park. Zero or infinite (open circuit) Ohms is bad news. I suspect damaged voice coil due to excessive power that the speaker could not dissipate.
  18. Used German Warwick corvette (as on this parish from time to time). Circa £450 to as low as £375. Neck profile to taste, thick or thin. Get a fretless ebony neck version and have lines put in or get a fretted one defretted and lines put in. £175 ish by Shuker guitars. Warwick fretless with dots at 3,5,7 etc is easy to intonate, would be relatively cheap to have extra dots put in side of fingerboard if you find you need them.
  19. [quote name='redstriper' timestamp='1445362962' post='2890948'] .... I like TIs or lighter Pyramid Golds for jazz or funk and they're both great for fretless, but the low tension is annoying on fretted bass because I play with a heavy touch. The main thing with all flats IMO is to give them time - they sound and feel better with age. [/quote] Interesting how the same strings respond to different players and basses. I also use both types above and play with a heavy touch (bass action usually 3 to 4mm at 12th fret). I like the 'rubber bandy' feel of the TIs they do not seem to rattle about or buzz for me. Flats are great value for money, last a lifetime. I have one set (from new) on a bass bought in 1980 (ish). They are still ok, Roto Tru Bass (whic are really rounds with the black nylon tape).
  20. Much good advice above about what sound you want and the 'sweet spot' moving with different fret positions plus the string spacing issue. Be bold, engineer a sliding pickup like the Gibson Grabber
  21. Serious performance to £ bass here. Luckily I do not need another corvette.
  22. Bought an Aria bass from Jeff, excellent bass, super communication. Many thanks.
  23. Source the same metal, find an engineering firm to cut to size and fettle as needed then get the finish you want applied. Keep your original grilles should you ever wish to change back. You could explain the situation to TKS and see if they would supply additional grilles at a sane price.
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