3below

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1440837654' post='2854186'] ....... Warwicks are either C or U shapes (I have examples of both). [/quote] Likewise, and for the same model bass they are very different to play. Linking in with Alyctes idea of a database of bass dimensions, why not make cardboard templates of the profiles at nut / first fret and 12th fret. Photograph the profiles with ruler scale in picture. +1 to Manton Customs, it is all personal preference.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1440799039' post='2854046'] ....It doesn't make sense (to me) that there can be much wrong with the frets if the other strings are intonated correctly right the way along the neck. Check the nut slot depth though, if it's too shallow you'll have issues with the fretted notes nearer the nut. Neck relief should be a slight concave bend, I hope that's what you mean when you say there's a 'nice concave bend' because it's thickness of card territory you're after. [/quote] Good advice above on nut slot and relief and the sense check is excellent. If the ADG strings are ok the frets / neck / nut / bridge are likely to be spot on. Fender (and other mass market bass builders) have got this down to a fair art.

Concave neck (relief) is good. Quite staggering fret wear can be ok. My first thought is duff E string (even from new). I struggled to get a bass to intonate correctly until I eventually figured it was a duff new string. It was the only one I have encountered in 44 yrs of bass playing however Other thoughts: Nut slot smooth? put some wax or pencil graphite in it, ball end secure against bridge? Pull string firmly a few times to take any slack out (I have read on the Internet that this is not recommended but has never caused any issues for me). Last question is how out of tune? Noticeable to hearing or a few dots out on the tuning meter - finger pressure can make notes go sharp on tuning meter.

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1440769129' post='2853706'] Thanks 3below. That's very close to a P (about 6mm closer to the bridge than my '72). I'm now thinking maybe a G&L humbucker in the P position like an L1000, mmm ... [/quote] 6mm in the scale of things is about 0.7% difference on the open strings reducing to about 1.4% difference at 12th fret. My take would be that this is not a significant difference. Retrofit MFD will be more straightforward (cheaper and non destructive) than MFD humbucker. I also like the 'aggressive' mfd tone, I can get shades of Gibson EB, The John Hall bass, J bass and P.

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1440760204' post='2853564'] Good point re pickup position. Can someone measure from 12th fret to centreline of polepieces? (it's a more consistent measurement than from the saddles) [/quote] Very true on consistency, E/A (288[color=#333333][font=Verdana, Geneva, Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4]±1)[/size][/font][/color]mm D/G (315[color=#333333][font=Verdana, Geneva, Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4]±1)mm[/size][/font][/color]

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1440756300' post='2853510'] It's a mod I've been intending to try for a long time but just haven't as yet. I await the outcome of your project [/quote] At one point G&L fitted a Schaller PBX as standard. I just turn the volume and tone down to tame the MFD into a more traditional P bass tone.

On mine (1988) bridge saddles to centre of pole pieces: D/G 125mm E/A 157mm.

Long nosed pliers that have serrations on the gripping face. Push pickup down and protect it with some insulating tape. Grip the screw with the pliers parallel to the body (i.e. the serrations are helping with the twisting). and gradually unscrew a little at a time. If the pliers slip you may also be able to carefully file some flats on the screwhead that will help. Protect bass body with some cardboard stuck down with masking tape or similar - it is all too easy to slip.

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1440668766' post='2852776'] Anyway, careful colour matching with wood dye should get it looking less noticeable, once it has dried you could give it a coat or two of paste wax (Briwax, Liberon etc) to restore a bit of sheen. [/quote] Briwax / Liberon has worked wonders on my SG satin (now wax glossy) bass

Post some picture please

Nice but the price . Having said that if its a BCer then GLWTS.

Furniture touch up pens might be one way to go - they are available in a range of colours. I have no idea at all if they should be used on guitar finishes though. Failing that woodstain. This would require a fair bit of experimentation to get the right shade.

[quote name='Machines' timestamp='1440565276' post='2851920'] Would that have enough data? It could probably be achieved in Excel. Multiple tables aren't really needed. [/quote] Depends on how much data will be kept, 3NF will make handling multiple instances easier e.g. variants on models such as Fender Precision / Jazz and further extension will be simpler. Python and SQL will make further use e.g. web much easier and give the OP the skills development wanted. SeanNeedham gives good advice - thinking about possible end points and planning structures on paper saves much grief later on

There are also metal inserts that can be inserted into the holes. You can then use machine screws (bolts) to fix the neck. [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/2011/04/11/how-to-fit-the-threaded-insert-neck-kit/"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/2011/04/11/how-to-fit-the-threaded-insert-neck-kit/[/url]

It is a mystery, as was BLs inability to build a gearbox that lasted. There must be a 'graveyard' like elephants or aircraft in USA. These columns are just awaiting rebirth as SMLA with NHD in marketing speak - SMall Line Array, Narrow Horizontal Dispersion. I would quite like to find a set and put some 'reasonable' (not premium) speakers in and see how they perform. Cabinets were usually quality Birch ply.

Can you take a picture of your machines and post? I have sorted out similar problems on various bass guitars and am about to embark on the same with my DB - the E tuner is smooth most of the way but has the stiff / creaky spot.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439338628' post='2842077'] Had a look couldn't find mine, there Philips ( mullards) gt Britain however mine matched up to non online lettering print wise. [/quote] What valves are they? You mentioned death cap so I surmise this is an early(ish) Fender amp.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439249317' post='2841351'] On another note are old valves worth anything? Even a few quid or should they be retained for future test purpose or binned? [/quote] Oh yes if they are functional. Mullard EL34s seem to fetch good money, ditto Mullard pre amp valves. USA 6L6 GE also seem to fetch money. A quick look at the well known internet auction site is informative.

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1438672597' post='2836201'] I had a corvette fiver once that was seriously tight... sounded great (as have all Warwicks I've tried) but was way too tight for my agricultural technique [/quote] Ditto it had to go in the end, replaced with 4 stringer.

Sometimes too low an action can lead to a dull lifeless bass. Another factor to explore is the pickup height from strings. I like the tone of my passive Warwick MEC 'Dynamic Correction' (whatever that means beyond market speak) pickups but they certainly underwhelm in terms of output.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1439244313' post='2841319'] Capacitor ratings can be confusing but if possible I'd say go for 105 deg C rated caps cf the cheaper 85 deg C versions. Gives longer useful life. [/quote] +1 particularly if these are being used with higher powered valve amp with associated heat issues.

You need at least 65V. Higher voltage ratings are OK. Morgano has covered all the bases 68uF or two 33Uf in parallel seems the way to go.