3below

One key part to this is the Peavey circuit diagram. Armed with this (and an internet / books) you can work out what the circuit will do. Many (but not all) Peavey valve (tube) amps of the 1970s / 80s can 'auto' bias for different valves (I can not say about later - have not studied circuits). Circuit diagrams will also indicate B+ (HT) voltage that transformers can deliver - many Peavey designs deliver a lot - great for KT88s, can be too much for EL34s - I have considered using Peavey Deuce / VT for donor amp in HIWATT clone build - plenty of HT available. If Peavy can not supply the diagram (unlikely, they are very helpful above and beyond diagrams, will provide detailed info e.g. power ratings of transformer low voltage supplies circa 1980) then similar diagrams will probably help. The 6 x 6L6 configuration was pretty common with Peavey - Mace etc. The circuit diags I have show 4 x 6L6 and 6x6L6 variants if my memory serves me right. How much power do you want? 6 x 6L6 will deliver quite a lot of volume providing your bass cab can deliver [size=4] KT88s are not cheap, so the gain (pun intended) per £ may not be that significant.[/size]

I have also fancied an EB3 / SG bass for many years. Like you I am zillions of miles away from 'big' music shops. In my youth I had a John Birch EB3 type bass. Neck dive has been one of the first things I check out on a bass since that one.

Simple repair like yours should not be expensive - my father (bless him) snapped the neck on my DB. Excellent repair was only £90 or so. Bass was also set up, sound post sorted and bridge for this amount.

As above, see medics. When you do, insist on tests etc, do not be fobbed off if it gets worse. I have other half who now has a'destroyed' knee joint beyond replacement because medics just kept prescribing pain killers rather than listen to her. The pity is her first knee replacement aged 45 has been brilliant, now we are just looking at very bleak situation - still I guess the NHS has saved money. Aged 55 I feel it is not a health service at the moment, feel rather let down.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1385411847' post='2288035'] Another pot-head pixie here, since Camembert Electrique. How's yer father and mind how you go... [/quote] Ditto, stuff of my youth (aged 14 or so ) and a CD that I still listen to. A great British / French / European / whatever institution. Long may it play on.

I have just purchased a s/h GX5. Have used it with DI out (no pre amp after DI so low output) and one of my passive basses into BF Dubster and Shermann equivalent of BF Big one / fearFul 15/6. sounded good to my ears.

Singer has given some of the best clob (mediaeval building material aka complete load of b****x) I have heard in ages. If you feel constructive / are good friend with singer / like singer / would like to know singer better, ask her to play a song/track where bass has the groove she wants. Otherwise construct suitable answer of own choice.

String spacing can be an issue. I have a Warwick rockbass corvette 5 string fretless with narrow string spacing. 40+ years bass playing with 19mm (Fender size) string spacing makes the Warwick a non starter, I just keep missing strings with right hand, despite lots of effort.

As above, try new strings - same gauge as E to G on 5 stringer. Do both basses have approx same scale length?

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1385219366' post='2285728'] Hypothetically, if I borrowed the steel mesh from the front of my speaker cabinet and used it to support food on top of my barbecue, would it be both a grille and a grill? [/quote] A grill on a grille is a cooking technique you should be grilled about [size=4] [/size]

Spare Mesa Boogie, spare back, spare strong person, spare fingers, toes , legs - in event of crushing injury [size=4] Seriously - mains and the HT fuses. Also some pre amp valves and a pair of output valves. These days I would also take a spare soiid state head - something cheap will do. I must be lucky, all the valve amps I have owned (Hiwatt x2, Marshall, Fender, Vox, Sound City) have never failed at a gig.[/size]

Authorised Ric copies seem a great business plan. Once you bought one you would receive a cease and desist / take down from the ceo if you try and sell it later on. They would be the ultimate one time user bass. I might be slightly cynical with this business model, then again..........

Can only say the quality of my Korean Rockbass Corvette is as good as any USA bass I own (and have owned). It is better than one particular USA bass (through neck, dual truss rods, diamond inlays on fretboard, bound 'art deco' body shape) that I owned circa 1980.

My 1977 P bass (bought new September 77) had the more rounded pickup cover. No skunk stripe as far as I can remember - that was a disappointment at the time.

Some pictures will help. There are fellow BCers with basses of that era, I owned one from new at that time. Help is available, whether the news is good or bad is another matter.

Another one of my youth's musical inspirations. Another loss to the world of music.

Plywood basses - Gibson EB2 springs to mind, then we get onto many, many 6 string semi acoustic guitars, Gibson 335, 175 etc etc. I seem to recall the EB2 (and other Gibsons) have a 'Chromyte' centre block, or as we might call it balsa wood. Pretty much the ultimate low cost composite body? The plywood on my double bass is something else - flame maple. The degree of flame would be impressive on a Les Paul / PRS etc. Discussion makes me wonder about a Birch ply neck experiment.

Brensabre79 is bang on with the link. Those are the metal inserts I would try.

Never had screws coming loose in 40+ yrs of screw on necks. Metal inserts could be a solution, could try copydex in metal inserts or wood since this will stop screws loosening but still can be undone. At a push can use PVA glue since heat to screw via soldering iron will allow removal later. Another possibility is using anti shake (serrated) washers. Hope neck stays put in future.