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I have thought about one of these. Am a long way away in the boonies from any Gibbo holding music shop. Will it do the Jack Bruce / Andy Fraser (Cream/Free) sound?

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1366571340' post='2054293'] I once turned down a Gibson Ripper in favour of a cheapo P-bass. The difference was only about £20, too! It was a natural maple body with the 'arrow-head' headstock, as on the Flying-V bass, and with the sliding pickup. I couldn't get the pickup to move, the frets had been pulled, and even then my preference for P pickups was starting to show. Still, it remains a bargain I should have put the time and effort into fixing up. [/quote] It was a Grabber, another highly underrated bass. On my list for one day, however the power of P always draws me to safety.

Model 1 or Willpower, measure the pole spacing and determine which using tech specs on DiMarzio website. If it is not the 'real thing' (highly unlikely) it is a very well done copy.

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1366392769' post='2052070'] Just because you are a large MI retailer, it does't necessarily mean you will fit a manufacturer/distribution model criteria. [/quote] If you are a manufacturer can you afford to ignore one of the largest MI retailers? Guess they know best.

Ou7shined's build is a great thing. It is something I have thought about (a la Gibson Varitone) but never implemented. The results save me (and others) the effort of replicating it, so a big thanks. Next question would be what is 'optimum value' or is it the iiipopes 0.033 value (somewhere in the middle of most basses).

Barefaced Dusbster - the destroyer of buildings (and no shortage of hf with TI flats [size=4] )[/size]

Super purchase of machine heads from Stephen. BCer rocks, he replied to 'hopeful ad', good deal done. Many thanks. Francis

G&L SB1 3 bolt 1985 - rock solid neck joint and the tilt made setup easy. Opinion based on 23 years in my possession. Are 3 bolts one too many? my 1979 Kramer DMZ 4001 has two bolts, it is also dead stable.

[size=4][quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1365971043' post='2046803'][/size] Thanks for the explanation, but I knew all that. What I asked was, what does "[i]polyester and paper in oil are the best quality and most linear caps,[/i]" actually mean? Specifically, what does 'quality' and 'most linear' mean when applied to a capacitor? [/quote] Excellent points above, we most certainly want clarification, particularly with signals in the 20 - 20 KHz range at voltages around 0.5V to 18V as these are audio related and encompass passive and active basses. wikipedia [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor[/url] is pretty informative, which quality and linearity are we discussing?[size=4] [/size]

Ok that is some 'big iron', what are you running 4 x KT88? I cheat when getting transformers - peavey VT series - great iron s/h at low prices, not enough B+ to run 4xKT88s though.

These days I tend not to worry about badges. Chinese rockbass £100 sounds just as good as my 'best bass'. Then again my best bass is only a copy precision, says something like made in Fullerton CA USA by Leo Fender on the headstock. Have had the why do you only have a copy comment several times. Seems like a waste of time trying to explain G&L to the uninitiated.

Even really sloppy bass machines should stay in tune providing you tune up and the nut slot is correct. As above try new strings and pencil lead or wax in the nut slot.

I well remember fitting extensive gear (Acoustic 370 and drum kit) in 2CV. These days Movano and Ifor Williams Trailer, gets the bass rig in lolx

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1364937091' post='2033103'] Don't hold your breath. I reckon people are still more willing to pay for convenience than save a few bob and go and pick it up themselves. And i think any business doing regular trade with RM will still get a good enough discount to continue with internet trading. It might drive a few more people back to high street shopping, but i wouldn't hold my breath, is all. [/quote] Am holding my breath, my other half's business is rather dependent on RM, there is discount with franking machine but the cost of RM is becoming significant. Following on from OP, If you are a small business that makes products h > 8cm what chance do you stand, even if product is 8 cm x 8 cm. Still, I am told the economy is good and we have avoided triple dip recession Pity no-one told our customers that.

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1364923220' post='2032723'] I like the Wilkinson bridge. It is a direct replacement for the BBOT but has brass saddles and is slightly heavier and looks good. Cheap as well at £12.25. [url="http://www.buy-guitar-parts.com/index.php?/vmchk/wilkinson-bass-parts/wilkinson-bass-bridge-brass-saddles.html"]http://www.buy-guita...ss-saddles.html[/url] [/quote] Agree, excellent bridge, more so for the money.

An excellent move by Royal Mail to support the economy. Well done in encouraging the return to the high street. These 'small and wholly neccesary' increase in charges will help stop that Internet and mail order selling fad. More likely competition will step up to the plate.

You are going to have to try it if possible, acoustic and amplified. My solid front laminate back is ok acoustically, no more, no less. Used with Schaller pickup and my usual bass guitar kit I really rate it. The big bonus is being able to play at volume and no feedback issues. Depending what volume you play at any acoustic subtleties from one bass to the next may be easily lost - guitarists and drummers spring to mind.

Just bought Smith semi acoustic bass from Greg. Excellent deal, great communication. One happy new bass owner. Many thanks. Francis

Is it a bolt on neck? If so will probably be cheaper to find a replacement rather than have reprofiled and refinished. YMMV.

Madness affects us all in different ways. I removed the frets from mine circa 1982. Played very nicely but I did a rough job with hindsight. Eventually moved it on for the G&L I have to this day. I know which one I prefer and still have.

There is possibly a cheaper way to do this - s/h G&L tuners £30 ish ebay sometimes. These have aluminium posts and are Schaller BM size. Key question is what size plate do your existing ones have? Are they the larger Fender type or the smaller BM sized ones?

Build your own high pass filter with a very high db/octave shelf. Plenty of diagrams on the web, components will be a matter of a few £ at most. If it works, box it up, problem sorted. If not was less than a beer and a bit of time.