Random Guitarist

I made one, possibly in a minority as I did use an overlord of music bridge. TBH it's fine as well, once the threads are greased. I did start another to incorporate what I learned, but life gets in the way.

The way I see it, the guy has by any reasonable standard entirely mastered bass playing. His collection of videos, taken as a whole, look like the product of a high-functioning musically aware individual. I'd think he's definitely smart enough to know what is needed for a scenario, and to decline to take part if he didn't fancy playing.. I suspect he'd be a delight to play with because he has plenty of mental capacity left over from playing to listen and create little details.

Might be a 'marital harmony' sale, unwillingly listed and priced not to sell

A guy I went to school with started a valve company many years ago, they buy NOS etc. The page is here: https://web211.secure-secure.co.uk/tube-and-valve-electronics.co.uk/wanted.asp Probably worth contacting. Thanks, Grant.

I'd second that endorsement. I bought a roasted maple tele neck from guitar anatomy perfect fit to a fender body and very nice quality

Nice, I've been looking forward to hearing how this goes.

Assuming you treat gear well and it's an investment for a few year, I'd suggest squeezing the budget up to £260 and going for Sennheiser HD650s. They are very good.

I've used them twice and had good results, especially considering the cost. Things to note: Height adjustment is limited, you may need to recess the bridge into your bass body You must disassemble and grease the internals or turning the tuning knobs is a challenge The top end string holder is a little finicky to position for good results (string break angle vs truss rod access) Good things: They are easy to get in tune Once tuned they are very stable They are cheap

Other possibility I'd suggest is that you may have a dry solder joint to the PCB and slight movements of the socket cause issues. That would be worse when the nut is removed as the socket is then more free to move

Have you tried cleaning the contacts with de-oxit? There may well be a tiny bit of corrosion/contamination in just the wrong spot, especially on a used item.

Nice, given how thin .1 is I assume you'll be making sure the existing board is super flat before uniting them in glue?

I like the chip where it is. I also need to order a couple of custom ones for myself now, thanks for sharing!

I've had very good success with homemade cutters made of tubing. I cut the teeth in the opposite direction to that video image and run the drill counter clockwise. In several instances I have had the homemade cutter bind to the broken screw and reverse it out without drilling the hole out to more then a couple of mm depth

Gear4Music have 'Mahogany' and Ash ones for £50, but no Alder https://www.gear4music.com/search/?str_search_phrase=bass+guitar+body

That reminds me of when I did some work at a flight simulator company, a lot of the engineers had started in Fortran and migrated to C. They migrated syntax, but some never mastered the new idioms, and were writing what became known as C-tran

Looking at this a bit more I think it's probably possible to do something similar with an Arduino Nano plus the multiplexer and displays? It would need to be configured via USB, not web, and would be limited in terms of capabilities, but might suit the kind of device I need more closely. Thank you, very thought provoking

This looks very interesting, lots of possibilities, and tantalisingly cost effective.

The nut is clearly offset to the e-string side, but I don't think that's the only issue. If the neck were positioned straight relative to the bridge then you'd see the E string coming in towards the centre of the fretboard as it goes from nut to the twelth fret. You don't see that, you see the strings running down with a consistent spacing, so the nut and the bridge are offset to a similar degree relative to the neck. I suspect the shop set the nut slots in a position to make the strings run evenly, if offset, down the neck. If the neck can't be adjusted into position by slackening screws it's the quickest cheapest thing to do. In an ideal world they should have got in touch with you, explained the problem and asked what you wanted to do.

Love that colour! You have me wondering about other spices now. Maybe a 'curryburst'?

I'd be cautious of the drilling out process unless you have a pillar drill and a vice to hold the saddle. Small drill bits snap easily and have a habit of leaving a piece of of their hard un-drillable selves in place.

Thanks all, definitely food for thought. The design I have really needs the barrel, so I may just try a switchcraft and see how that goes for six months.

I bought some Hosco barrel sockets from a reputable UK supplier and the first one used has lost it's 'grip' in just a few months of light use. It makes electrical contact with the plug but the plug is not being retained, even a slight pull will remove it. Am I just unlucky or is this brand/design known to be problematic? I'm particularly concerned as I have been asked to build a bass for someone (first ever commission, so a quite daunting) and I don't want to lumber them with a crappy jack socket.

Love what you're doing with this. An SR500 is too good to waste, and the 'survivor' look suits it!

There's a drop down option on that page for shaft length which has a 9.5 choice?

https://www.axesrus.co.uk/CTS-Pots-Solid-Shaft-p/cts63.htm Any good?