bremen

I know Beedster loves him a Precision, so why not P neck on a Thunderbird body?

Have you built this yet? I think there's an error in their schematic. Adding a couple of resistors and a cap to the middle control would turn the control into a variable "scoop". Like the "classic" setting on the ampeg svp CL. As it's shown on their schematic it's just a bass cut. I can post an annotated schematic if you're interested, and when I'm near a computer.

His state variable crossover fits the bill nicely, continuously variable f so you can experiment. I've built and use a couple. Very useful. Shipping isn't too bad, well worth the $.

I haven't, but thanks for the share - that's a really interesting circuit, never seen anything like it. It's like a dirty version of the Trace dual band compressor, only with three bands and clipping instead of 'nice' compression. That 'middle' control - I can't see how it could do anything other than cut the bass as it's turned anticlockwise. Fully clockwise C7 and C8 are out of circuit and the preamp goes straight to the tone stack. Am I missing something? Also a Shellac/Jesus Lizard/Big Black bass tone fan. I believe a Rat might also be an ingredient of David Wm Sims' tone. cheers

Yeheyeno, I was just remarking that 2mS latency is less than nothing (as it were). Anyway. My £400 earplugs should hopefully be arriving in time for Saturday's gig, so I can experience faster-than-the-speed-of-sound travel for myself:-)

Yes. It's probably not as strong as pva but it holds the bracing nicely in a slot.

Top tip: rout a 6mm slot into the panels. Fill with foaming flooring adhesive https://amzn.eu/d/frLAMMw 5.5mm ply bracing then fits snugly and is going nowhere.

This (the text, not the solvent) should be a Sticky. "...the pots were a bit crackly so I squirted them with wd40..."

It's no' "fit", it's "eh?"

I've had that rivet fail on an Eminence beta 10. Can't remember how, but it was a piece of piss to rivet it back on and there was no further damage.

Fit?

All the above is true; it's unlikely youll get a quiet fan that shifts as much air. Don't risk it. I have a few thousands quidswotth of recorder here that I killed trying to escape its fan noise. If its really unacceptable, Agedhorse's solution might be the one if you arrange a larger, slower running fan to blow through the box.

A git is a pregnant camel. A tight git is a pregnant camel that has, contrary to the vet's advice, been drinking. And working for Thomann.

🥰

Voice Coils impedance varies with frequency; multimeters read DC , that is zero Hz.

That could be read as "give up now"! (I know that's not what you meant)

I've never heard of a solid state amp that you can't use without speaker connected. This looks nice. Plenty power!

Yeah, thomann will probably try to charge you extra for that

I like that they still use chicken head knobs. Keeps it retro.

There you go - as many recommendations as there are pickups on the market!

If that's another name for the alnico quarter Pounder, that's what I use. Very high output, very attacky with a pick and pianoey with fingers.

Don't turn down an amp just because it lacks a headphone socket. It really is trivial to make an adaptor. I have an earlier model of this https://www.voxamps.co.uk/products/ap3-ba?srsltid=AfmBOorDJQvZmPqEggPXsqCRGFCQ7-riIJhY1qeGwUaT4_CEDN7hb6Js that I use to practise when there's no amp available.

If the amp has a headphone output, sure. But don't plug headphones into the speaker output, the level is much too high and your headphones will burst into flames but not before they melt your brain. Find an amp you like, if it hasn't got a headphone output I can make you an adaptor to take the level down to suit headphones, about 50p worth of parts that I have in my box anyway. Had you considered making your own cab? All you need is a jigsaw. And some glue.

Ohms. The unit of impedance, ie how much an element resists the flow of current. Valve amps must be impedance matched to the cabs they're driving. Some amps have a switch to select their output impedance, some are OK within a range (it's generally OK to drive an 8 ohm output into a 4 ohm speaker but not vice-versa). Transistor amps have a rating: minimum load. Most often 4 ohms, sometimes 2. The speaker(s) must not go under this impedance, and its nearly always fine to go over. Note that two 8 ohm cabs present a total of 4 ohms (unless you wire them in series, which you won't). An amp that delivers 100W into 8 ohms will generally deliver a bit less than twice that into 4 ohms. That's not twice as loud: it's between 2 and 3 decibels louder. Don't obsess over "getting the most out of the amp"; 2dB is noticeable in an AB test but other factors are far more significant. How far is the cab from the back wall? How full is the venue? How drunk is the drummer? A 4 ohm amp driving an 8 ohm speaker will run cooler and have an easier life than driving 4 ohms. In short: assuming it's a transistor amp, all you need to do is be sure your speakers impedance is equal or greater than the minimum rating of the amp. This will generally be labelled. Next week: power ratings! Phil Starr and Bill Fitzmaurice are absolute authorities on the subject. Hear what they say.