bremen

Mine's just developed a plague of fret buzzes, despite the perfect setup when it left Glesca. I'm reassured that it just needs a tweeze of truss rod and a nice lie down with a cuppa tea and a spliff. Shame I won't get to gig it tonight but the Precision sounds gorgeous so all good.

Thanks all, very reassuring and the shop agrees. We agreed that border crossings can be a bit of a culture shock (torn from its Glaswegian roots and dumped in East anglia)

Warmoth will rout to your spec and are good quality. They did me a 'dinky P'; a Precision type body with a bit extra wood taken out to make it lighter, while still balancing like a full size P. Fender neck fitted the pocket perfectly.

Well, just the one woe really. Got a new Jet JJB300 as enjoyed by others here. It was beautifully set up when it arrived but after a few days playing there's a fair few rattly frets and choked notes. I'm wondering if, as it was set up the day it was posted to me, the truss rod had been adjusted and the wood is taking this time to follow the steel? I've never had a bass from new before, they've always had time to settle. I've asked the shop if there's a warranty issue if I slacken the truss rod myself, waiting to hear, but is this normal behaviour for a new instrument? Cheers

Mr Horse's post was useful reference and should be pinned somewhere.

In between shooting JFK and kidnapping Shergar...

Practice makes perfect...

OK...do you think there's a problem with the wiring then? Mine seem good, not on/off, easy to reduce the bridge pickup a bit while keeping neck full on.

Ead, what is this loom upgrade of which you speak?

My opinion is that it's the nicest bass I've ever played. The neck is sublime, I mean the way it looks and feels. Really nice setup from Merchant City, easy action all the way up with no fret buzz anywhere. Perfectly intonated. Some reviewers hve noted that the strings are a bit dead, mine certainly weren't. It's my first Jazz type bass, after many years of P fanboidom (and a Warwick Thumb that just wasn't me). It's good to have less variation in tone betwen EA and DG, that's the one thing I've struggled with with Ps. Rehearsal Monday and a pair of gigs next week (one of them a return to Glesca for the bass) so let's see how it goes in the real world.

I'm not having any of that Creationist nonsense. Which instrument was the ape? Going right back to the beginning though, I guess it all started with a one-celled Hammond organism (thank you, uncle Frank 🙏)

I love the sound of the e and a string but the d and g always sound weak. Might have to try Sklaring the pickups.

Mr Ead replied by pm to suggest "possibly not". But I bought one anyway 😀 All the way from Glesca...should be among us next week. Dead excited, me.

I've bought from them before, no problem shipping to UK.

It's like dancing about architecture. The sound I like is dark and punchy, kind of a vintage modern bright sound; plenty of heft, but in-your-face in a subtle kind of way.

https://gb.profusion.uk/uk/audio/transist/lateral-mosfets

It certainly is helpful, thanks Ead, I'm very tempted to get one of these. Is the heel the same dimensions as standard J/P? In the event that I don't get on with the J body and pickups, would I be able to stick the neck in a P body? Thanks

That's a very Metal looking bass. Speaking of which, whatever happened to the What's The Best Bass For Metal thread? That was funnier than the Memes thread for sure.

OK we could go on forever as a "well designed power supply" is a matter of degree and isn't necessarily a feature of many bass amps, mostly they're just found in high end class d power amps. Point is though, anyone expecting more than a marginal increase in loudness by choosing 4 over 8 is going to be disappointed. Confirmation bias aside, and of course that's always worth a few dB!

Not quite. Few amps are ideal voltage sources, there's generally a bit of sag.

Sure, my Chromes have been dead and alive for 10 years. Roundwounds are the consumables we're talking about.

I used to do this back in the day and it seemed to work for a little while but not long. I was never really sure of the mechanism that causes strings to "die" (they are inert lumps of steel, never "alive" to start with) apart from the voids filling with skin flakes and fried chicken grease. Does the metal really fatigue? The vibrations of a bass string are pretty benign compared to what steel has to go through in the real world.

and a nice gottle a geer

SVP Pro preamp and a solid state power amp? Even if it's not class D it'll be lighter and cheaper than the 135 (a beautiful amp indeed)