bremen

[quote name='BRANCINI' timestamp='1342526318' post='1736516'] Theres been a lot of early 70s live stuff on TV lately, anybody else noticed that a lot of bands had 2 different Mics taped together for vocals ? I remember seeing it a lot at the time, but have never really been sure why it was done that way. Was one of them for foldback, or recording or what ? [/quote] It's anti-feedback. They are wired out-of-phase, so sound arriving at both (ie from the PA) is cancelled out. You just sing into the one, so you don't get cancellation.

[quote name='dincz' timestamp='1342519841' post='1736372'] Yeah, class H so I expect it would run hotter than a class D. I'm a bit concerned about cooling in a rack case because of the side vents. [/quote] I guess it'd be ok so long as it wasn't sharing with any amps that discharged hot air out of side vents (I have one) but I'd be happier if there was an extra fan in the back of the rack.

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1342475356' post='1735945'] Knitting is so last season mate, it's macrame these days [/quote] Yup. Sir Paul MacRamae.

It states back to front, and has slots in the sides and front so I guess it sucks it in the sides (which you could describe as 'back' as it's behind the mounting ears). It's not Class D. The flannel implies Class H. There's some terrible pseudo-techno-babble on the site but I wouldn't be put off, looks like a bit of a bargain. edit: just seen the manual and yes it does state left-to-right! It also states the true RMS output power - considerably less than that published in the puff, maybe not such a bargain after all.

Do they have to be identical to the ones pictured, or just functional?

Steve suggested a product by the name of Milliput, a two-pack epoxy, for mending or making nuts. Going to try making one. http://www.milliput.com/ Looks to be very versatile stuff.

You won't damage a mixer by putting too much level into an input. Within reason, I mean don't go plugging the speaker outputs of your 1kW amp in...

I should have mentioned the reason I didn't offer an opinion on the strings. I didn't actually get to try them; they are so much thicker than the ones on my bass at the moment that I ordered a nut that I could cut to suit. Weeks later there's no sign of the nut so rather than sit on the strings I'm passing them on. When the nut turns up I'll put my name back on the list. Apologies for the timewasting, hope you enjoy the strings.

On their way to Steve... cheers all!

[quote name='heminder' timestamp='1341844380' post='1724988'] he should have waited a decade or two and sold it as "original vintage". [/quote] Reminds me, I have an envelope full of dust from John Entwistle's uncle's attic here, must put it on Ebay tonight...

[quote name='BOD2' timestamp='1342085425' post='1729169'] Since the old jack is being scrapped it will actually be easier if you "disassemble" it while still attached, so that just the legs remain on the PCB. That way you can then unsolder and remove one leg at a time rather than trying to do them all at once, which is tricky. [/quote] Good advice, much less likely to damage the PCB that way.

I have a bass body that I believe was once yours Wayne - a Precision routed for an extra MM pickup. Bright yellow. Was it you that painted it? Immaculate job, respect. It now has a Japanese Precision neck (was once Chris Beedster's) and SD pickups and is loverley.

Refreshingly devoid of bullshit.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1341935948' post='1726520'] I guess we would look a bunch of dicks If we tested every socket in every pub for 10 years with one only to find the multi gang lead in our rack cases had no earth all along! [/quote] Quite...I once rented a PA that worked fine but had a bit of a residual hum. Turned out the earth and neutral had been reversed in one of the supplied plugblocks, so all the current was flowing through earth. This proved that the venue either had no RCD or it wasn't working. Had the plug on this pugblock then been plugged into a socket with a faulty earth, anything else plugged into that socket would have a low impedance (high current capacity) 240V applied to its chassis and all its audio connectors. And the drummer would have a *very* sore dick.

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1341931135' post='1726397'] I can't understand it either, unless there's a fault in the amp that makes the case live? [/quote] If a fault in the amp made the case live, the current would flow through the earth wire and blow a fuse. If said earth wire was missing, it would attempt to flow through an alternative path, usually the drummer's dick...in which case the RCD would detect the difference between current flowing into Live and out of Neutral and switch the amp off. So the drummer's dick would only be excited for a few milliseconds and be perfectly fine for its usual aprés-gig entertainment.

I saw a video where someone (I think it might have been official Fender marketing) explained that a Precision was like a punch in the gob, whereas a Jazz was a slap on the cheek. Presumably that makes a Thunderbird a boot in the bollocks.

I don't understand the reference to the transformer...? do you mean the transformer in the amp, ie the amp itself could stick its HT down the guitar lead? Extremely unlikely but yes an RCD wouldn't prevent this.

If you want one answer, ask two bass players!

Not a stupid question at all. You'll have a hard time soldering to a bridge as it's such a big lump of metal that it'll suck all the heat from the iron. Normally it's enough to trap the wire between bridge and body...in the case of a black bridge I'd scrape some of the paint/anodising off where the wire is to make contact.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1341916746' post='1726012'] Guys, Would this tester work if, say it was plugged in to the end of an extension lead that was plugged in to a faulty (say bad earth) mains socket? I'm thinking yes it would. I was wondering as I have a spare outlet on the extension fitted to the back of my rack case. I'd happily leave one of these plugged all the time as a visual guide to the status of the socket I am plugging in to. [edit] actually, I'd have to unplug all the devices from the extension first for a proper clear reading wouldn't I? [/quote] It's a great idea to have an 'always-on' safety checker. On the front panel of the amp. Hmmm... I don't see why you'd need to unplug everything else. Anyone? (LOL at Gust0o)

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1341916190' post='1725983'] A Compact is good but it's still only 1 speaker trying to do everything. At high volume I would always choose multiple speakers. [/quote] Yes, I'd choose multiple BFs ;-)

[quote name='1970' timestamp='1341914794' post='1725949'] it sounded like the cab wasn't 'keeping up' with the amp when I pushed it hard. [/quote] Any BF cab can eat 200 watts for breakfast and still have room for a Full English.

Adding a second identical cabinet is generally worth doing if you use them close together as the acoustic coupling gives 'free' SPL. Ask Bill Fitzmaurice, he knows.