bremen

I've bought lots from Thomann and have nearly always had great service. In particular, an amp broke down and they arranged for a courier to collect it and replaced it with a new one very quickly. Only problem was one time I ordered several (20+ various bits and pieces of studio gear) items and one was out of stock, they held the entire order til they got stock. But by the time that happened, something else was out of stock so had to wait again! A bit of communication here would have helped, but they are very, very busy and emails often don't get replies for some time. Overall though, no problem. Also try DV247.com ; they too offer an extended warranty on everything, are UK based and I [i]think[/i] they'll price match Thomann.

Looking up and seeing Lemmy in the audience

Just got a lovely Japanese Precision neck from the man. Now most folk would just wrap the merchandise in bubblewrap and give it to one of the kids to stick in a postbox. But I have to say Chris went the extra mile (quite literally). He walked, yomped, staggered and crawled across the battleground that is Canterbury at Xmas, on bleeding knees and elbows, paying no heed to the flying lead and Slade, to meet me in my command tank on my side of the line. Once the neck was safely stashed in my old kit bag he declined my offer of a tot of rum and a powdered egg and provided me with the fruits of his Company's reconnaisance mission: a fully detailed map and set of instructions on how to exit this hell and find safety at the Travelodge bunker! I have no idea of what may have occurred on his return journey. I write this from the safety of my bunker - I can only pray that Saint Leo guided him home that awful afternoon. God save the King!

[quote name='gazzatriumph' timestamp='1322828889' post='1456335'] Thanks again for your comments I had already bought the bass from a different source to the chap in the shop, Im not looking to sell it as I'm very happy with it but was curious to see if what the chap said was correct, this site has alot of knowledge on hand as well as piss takers but to the sensible ones thanks. [/quote] If you don't like pisstakers you're on the wrong forum Some of the worst offenders are also the most technically knowledgeable and helpful. Welcome, anyway!

[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1322825765' post='1456253'] Still not a patch [/quote] Close, though ;-)

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1322821081' post='1456152'] I suppose it depends on the brand you use, but a quarter turn of the truss rod is all that I`ve needed to do, when I`ve got a new bass and put 50s on it. [/quote] Exciting times! I'm making a Bitsa as we speak, getting a nice MIJ Precision neck from Beedster tomorrow. I want this to be my dirty/rough/rocky/clanging/thunderous instrument, to complement my smooooth P with flats. Favourite rounds so far are GHS Boomers, medium gauge, so I reckon I'll try their 50-70-95-115. Will I be happy forever if I do this?

How significant is the extra tension on the neck? I'm frightened of truss rods...what could go wrong? I like the idea of 50-110; I hate the sound of a weedy G string. If I'm allowed to say that here.

It shouldn't make any difference to the sound as cabinets are omnidirectional at the frequencies that the port emits. Might make a slight difference if the cabinet is right up against a rigid wall.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322772830' post='1455816'] Series/Parallel is ok but you might want to experiment with it first with your bass as it might not seem worth the agro. I find in the MM spot it doesn't have a massive impact (just loud/quiet to put it crudely) but in the P spot it yields more definable results. A push/pull knob would allow you to include a switch into your circuit without having to drill any fresh holes... plus it's reversible if you decide not to go with it. If you wanted to go and do it anyway, I use a 3 way DPDT (on/on/on) switch for it on my guitars. [/quote] Out of interest: In the MM position, do you hear a significant difference between the two windings?

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322771821' post='1455789'] I have a Sandberg Basic, which has a single MM humbucker. Whilst I love the bass, I got to thinking that it would be much more versatile if I could split the pickup to use in a single coil mode. I haven't had chance to have a rummage inside yet, but I'm guessing that as long as the pickup is four conductor, I could wire in a toggle switch to do Parallel/Single coil/Series, like a Stingray with a three-way switch. Is this right? If it is, could I get a toggle that would do the job, or would I have to get a blade style switch like a 'ray? Would much prefer a toggle if at all possible..... Anyone got any thoughts on this? Your opinion is much appreciated! Ta [/quote] I've just done that very thing. It took a 3 pole rotary switch, but I can select either coil, both series or both parallel. No idea how it sounds as the bass has no neck or strings. I'll let you know on Sunday :-)

I well remember hearing coz I luv you for the first time , I'd never head singing like that. Heard somewhere that they started out playing Zappa covers, or did I dream that? I can forgive them merry Xmas. So long as that's playing, Mccartney's anodyne piss isn't. Or wizzard's flatulent twaddle.

[quote name='risingson' timestamp='1322758296' post='1455553'] You're definitely right in saying that the music world is certainly lacking this kind of character right now. [/quote] It was when Fripp burst upon us, too. He was head and shoulders more interesting than anyone else.

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/160775-boiling-strings/page__hl__boiling

I put a Mighty Mite into a Fender Precision MIM body and it fit lovely and snug BUT it was way too high - the saddles in the bridge just wouldn't go that high. Had to rout the bottom of the neck pocket down several mm.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1322746724' post='1455257'] The only other suggestion I would have is pulling up your floorboards (perhaps just in the one room you want to practice in) and stuffing the gap with sound-murdering material. The last time I lived in a flat it was insulated in that way and I never heard a peep from the upstairs neighbours and they never heard us either. [/quote] Or put some of this down: http://soundstop.co.uk/ZABSLAY15.php and if necessary lay chipboard on top. This will decouple the bass's spike from the floorboards.

It certainly does. Thanks!

I have here (waves vaguely in direction of kitchen table) a Precision type bridge. It allows for through-body or old-school stringing. Rather than the usual five screwholes, it only has three. If I string it up the old-school way, will these three screws be enough to hold the bridge down, or must I use through-body? I thank you in advance for your helpful replies and links to amusing Youtube clips (both welcome).

Great idea...you won't sound like any other bassist!

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1322567411' post='1452645'] Any chance of getting the ebay shop link from your mate? I was looking at mine last night and it too is getting a bit tarnished, and i quite fancy getting a black one. No problem if you cant, ill go looking for one at the weekend. [/quote] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CHROME-BLANK-ELECTRICS-PLATE-FENDER-JAZZ-BASS-/150671381346?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2314b6d362

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1322575952' post='1452901'] Hey Walker, I would keep the bass seperate. The more you put through the PA the harder it will be to make everything clear. Bass needs a lot more power than vocals and guitars etc. too. I would save the money on the sub and use your bass amp instead. [/quote] This, most definitely. I hate the sound of a small PA struggling with bass and kick drum (why do all pub soundmen do this?). It just brings on a headache. Another top tip: get a good flightcase for the mixer if you want it to last more than a handful of gigs.

[quote name='GiantKiwi' timestamp='1322571723' post='1452760'] Yeah its an active bass, the preamp seems to run a tad on the hot side, i think ive got most of those components on my desk somewhere. Alternatively would leaving one of these in on mode permanently do the job? : [url="http://www.ehx.com/products/signal-pad"]http://www.ehx.com/products/signal-pad[/url] [/quote] Yes. Bit of a waste though.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1322571100' post='1452749'] Maybe now I'll have time to record some of my acoustic numbers with the Royal Philharmonic. [/quote] Or 'Jazz Odyssey'...or the Jack The Ripper musical 'Saucy Jack'...

[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1322560673' post='1452495'] That's fine, as I said, I'm not knocking the skill, but musician? If I put a Mahler Symphony staff in front of them, could they sightread it first time? My son can - along with the other 20-odd musicians in that orchestra. [/quote] That's a great skill, but how does it make anyone that can't do it not a musician? Pretty certain Jimi Hendrix couldn't sight-read Mahler. Conversely, how many of the 20-odd musicians in that orchestra could re-define the boundaries of what their instrument can do?

A solid state amp will specify a minimum load impedance. Anything above this (up to and including no load) will be fine.

[quote name='GiantKiwi' timestamp='1322500140' post='1451628'] OK this being my first post, I will say hi to all . Just recently bought a Marshall MB30 to use with my Ibanez SR500 while i'm at uni, and i've encountered an issue. It doesn't have a -10dB pad, and hence i can't put my bass's volume above 50% without it solid peaking. Are there any stomp boxes around which could effectively enact that -10dB pad, or is there a way of making my own? Kiwi [/quote] Welcome. I guess it's an active bass? You could make an attenuator with a jack plug, jack socket and a couple of resistors (start with 47k in series and 22k to ground if it is indeed an active bass). Do you have a Maplins or similar electronics shop locally? or maybe a lab tech at the Uni could help. PM me if I can help further.