bremen

[quote name='BOD2' post='148314' date='Feb 28 2008, 11:28 AM']I hadn't tried this ! In that case the easiest way to go might be to get a small mixer. Put the V-Amp into one channel, the iPod into another channel and then the mixer output into your amp or headphones. Gives you complete control over levels etc. and it's always handy to have a mixer kicking around. This would do the job [url="http://www.bluearan.com/sales/behringer/2nd_HAND_-_Behringer_UB502_Mixer.htm"]Behringer UB502[/url] or you could search eBay for something similar.[/quote] Or you could take the 'send' output from the Vamp into one mixer channel, the ipod into another and then feed the mixer output into the Vamp 'return'. You'd then get a mixed signal from the Vamp headphone output.

[quote name='mike257' post='148305' date='Feb 28 2008, 11:10 AM']Well, I've finally made some moves for renovating the old Squier, the scratchplate is here, the Wizards are on order, and I'm splashing on a Badass II tomorrow when I get paid The question is..... do I wire up with a blend pot and a master volume, or do I put individual volume controls in? I'm swaying towards the blend pot, but i'm open to suggestion. Pros and cons??[/quote] If you use a blend pot and set it central for 'both pups max' you'll actually be getting both pups half volume. So unless you use a very short lead or an onboard preamp you'll lose top end. Which might not be a problem but personally I prefer the both-pickups-straight-to-jack sound.

[quote name='BOD2' post='148244' date='Feb 28 2008, 09:25 AM']The V-Amp Pro doesn't have a dedicated "aux in" socket. It does have stereo "Post DSP Insert Return IN" jacks, though. These are the returns for an FX send/return loop for connecting an external FX processor. The arey "post DSP" which means any signal insert there will not be altered by the signal processing of the V-Amp. There's no relative control of the volume - that has to be controlled by the device being inserted at this point. You should be able to connect an iPod there (using a suitable stereo mini-jack to dual mono jack adaptor) although, as always, keep the volume of the iPod very low initially and bring it up slowly to make sure it doesn't overload anythng. I've got the manual on PDF - there's a 2.5 MByte manual and a 6 MByte diagram page. PM me with your email address if you want and I can email them to you.[/quote] No, you can't do this - the insert returns cut the bass signal. I wanted to do the same with mine. Why won't Vista let you download Behringer manuals? XP loves 'em.

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='147908' date='Feb 27 2008, 03:49 PM']I decided a couple of weeks ago to start a band. Got a few members together last night for our first rehearsal. Problem is, I can't hear myself with a loud drummer... Where does everyone place their gear in relation to where they stand? I had my amp on the other side of the room and moved over to stand next to the drummer. The drummer said he could hear me fine?? I seem to really like a traditional thumpy bass sound, but play rock...should I just bite the bullet and thin out the sound with the tone? I did try that in desperation, but it just sounded thin and honky. BTW the rig is way up to the job - maybe I should have turned it up above 4...but without the drums it sounds really loud - it's just when you add a guitar to the noise that I can't hear myself.[/quote] Hell yeah, it goes up to 11 doesn't it? [quote]This is my first real attempt at playing bass to a higher standard in a band - played guitars for years in different bands, and never had this problem [/quote] Poacher turned gamekeeper ;-) [quote]The cab was quite low on the floor - would lifting it up to my ear level help?[/quote] Yes, and put its back against the wall.

[quote name='sk8' post='147769' date='Feb 27 2008, 01:15 PM']I'm going to do an S1 type mod to my hohner jazz with a push/pull pot but don't know which value to get. Whats the differences/benefits of either Thanks in advance[/quote] Single-coil pickups like the Jazz use 250k pots. Humbuckers have a higher impedance so need 500k pots so they don't load them. You can use 500k with single-coil, but you'll lose more treble at low volume settings due to the capacitance of the cable.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='147681' date='Feb 27 2008, 10:43 AM']I was passing a charity shop, and there was an old valve radio in there. Had a look in the back and it had what looked roughly like a 12AX7 with Mullard written on it. What are the chances of that being a useable valve for my DHA pedal? Will the fact its been used in a radio for ages mean it probably won't be very good, or is the low power use in there going to mean its a good score? Being a charity shop the whole thing was cheaper than a NOS Mullard. Oh, and might it not have actually been an ECC85/12AX7?[/quote] Low power valves last forever(ish)...though I've never heard of Mullard calling it a 12AX7, they used the name ECC83.

[quote name='nash' post='147491' date='Feb 26 2008, 10:55 PM']right my final specs i think. have i missed anything ... musicman style battery box ...[/quote] 18V supply? My EMG works ok at 9V but they recommend using two PP3s for greater headroom.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='146336' date='Feb 25 2008, 08:14 AM']That is a fabulous piece of work. Thanks Alex. Just to confirm, do the descriptions 'guitar' and 'bass' in that chart apply equally to acoustic and to electric?[/quote] I'd have thought electric guitar harmonics go higher than an acoustic...but then again the 12" speakers that most guitarists use would limit anything above 5-6kHz.

[quote name='Dillsfretless' post='145903' date='Feb 24 2008, 10:53 AM']Hmmmn, I can't view the video right now but I'm pretty sure that I know what it will be. For me the jury is still out on this stuff, they can be funny but ultimately it's a laugh purely at someone else's expense, which I guess is a fairly low brand of comedy. Having seen a few now I don't feel the need to keep revisiting the same old joke. Having said that, I saw a brilliant Santana one once, every little nuance of the different musicians movements were timed into the thing and it was VERY funny. Some idiots who left comments seemed to think that it was real![/quote] The Santana one is probably the best. I played it to at least two people who thought it was for real. There's a much cleverer Steely Dan 'remix' somewhere, starts well and gradually deteriorates til the bassist is playing 'smoke on the water' while the band collapses around him.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='145071' date='Feb 22 2008, 02:20 PM']I had one keep coming loose on my Jazz. One gig i got a splinter from my drummers broken stick, forced it in the hole (the bass, not the drummers ;-) put the screw back in and its been perfect ever since. At last, a use for a drummer.[/quote] And that's why they like to play so loud - they are only thinking of how best to serve their bass brothers!

[quote name='dood' post='144950' date='Feb 22 2008, 12:17 PM']Knowing that you have a good knowledge of winisd (and I dont have a copy nearby to check) are the dimensions set in stone for best response / least distortion etc? for example, would it hurt lopping off height and adding it to depth instead?[/quote] Cabinet shape (within reasonable limits) makes no difference to bass response or distortion. For high mid frequencies you do have to consider ratios so you don't end up with one big fat standing wave (eg a cube), but using bracing as Alex intends will help break these up anyway.

[quote name='Mr Cougar' post='143847' date='Feb 20 2008, 05:09 PM']cheers guys I'm starting to get the idea here, is a similar option available on the Musicman HH configurations or do they just have one setting??[/quote] You can wire MM pickups single/parallel/series. I've seen a diagram somewhere online, can't remember whether it's the Seymour Duncan or Musicman site.

[quote name='Mr Cougar' post='143709' date='Feb 20 2008, 02:37 PM']Hi chaps, can someone please explain in terms I can understand the difference between Single Coil, Parallel and Series? What is the difference in sound? Can you wire up a bass so that you can flick a switch between the settings. For example if I had two humbuckers (like MMs) what would the options be regarding wiring them up, putting in switches and what would the effect be on the sound or hum? I'm researching getting a bass made and my preffered config would be a pair of MMs (I'm thinking two Delano MC4 HEs) but I'm unsure how to approach the wiring/configuration side to get the most versatile set up.[/quote] I have a Seymour Duncan MM and have wired it for parallel/one coil only. In parallel it's amazingly quiet (as in doesn't buzz near the amp) but I prefer the single-coil sound. It's hard to describe, it's just a bit more 'musical' somehow. I haven't tried series wiring but I'd expect it to give a huge boost to the low end at the expense of treble. I could draw you a diagram for a switch to select single/parallel/series - it needs a 2 pole 3 way switch (do these exist in any shape other than rotary?)

[quote name='Bernmeister' post='141052' date='Feb 15 2008, 02:02 PM']I've been lucky enough to have done a few deals & met with daf in the past & not only has he done me great deals, i have gained a great friend too. Cheers Daf I think its my turn for the drinks when we next meet. [/quote] I'll get the second round.

[quote name='mboursnell' post='139922' date='Feb 13 2008, 10:34 PM']Hi everyone, Does anyone know of a good lightweight bass guitar, with weight info. I have been recommended several, such as the Cort GB74, Aerodyne Jazz Bass, Ibanez SR500, but I don't have the weight of any of these. Does anyone have one of these that they can weigh for me? Thanks, Mike[/quote] My Warmoth Dinky PJ is 3.4kg; big fat Precision neck, swamp ash body.

[quote name='BossHog' post='140408' date='Feb 14 2008, 03:58 PM']They offer a ten year warranty on this amp[/quote] I'm impressed.

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='140283' date='Feb 14 2008, 01:33 PM']My 54P body in Korina and birdseye maple neck arrived today, 1 day late after 3 crossings of the Atlantic. Now to find the tung oil [/quote] Do you have the patience to do plenty coats and leave four hours between each application? I was sorely tempted to slap on a couple and bolt it together the same day. Worth it in the end though. Beautiful instruments.

[quote name='David Nimrod' post='140196' date='Feb 14 2008, 12:03 PM']I've got a Bass Pod XT Live, the floor one, and although I've spent a fair amount of time with it, I just can't get to grips with it. Now, me and manuals don't get on too well, fair enough, but I just can't see how all this is necessary somehow... I realise that the possibilities must be pretty much limitless, but I'm happy with my tone - what more is there to achieve? I guess what I'm saying is that 'I give up' - I'm just not that geeky (i.e. clever) and I don't think it's gonna work for me. Or am I missing something obvious?[/quote] If you're happy with your tone you don't need the Pod! I like the tone I get out of mine. Took a lot of tweaking mind.

[quote name='stewblack' post='137837' date='Feb 10 2008, 10:02 PM']I use it back stage, I use it wandering naked around the house if the fancy takes me. It's wonderful.Never fallen out[/quote] Fnarr! Fnarr!

[quote name='alexclaber' post='138833' date='Feb 12 2008, 01:30 PM']Finally bitten the bullet and ordered the parts for this cab. Basically it's an Eminence 3015LF woofer in a ~110 litre ported box tuned to 46Hz with a sealed sub-enclosure containing an Eighteen Sound 6ND410 midrange. Am still hunting down some suitable plywood - looking for high quality 9mm baltic birch with equal thickness plies throughout. Will be doing all manner of strange bracing to get sufficient stiffness from such thin ply. External dimensions will be ~ 32" high x 20" wide x 16.5" deep - a neat fit in the boot of my car along with my 4U shallow rack. Estimated weight <50lbs. Alex[/quote] I braced my cabinets with 'shelves' of 9mm ply full of 2" holes; one of these 'shelves' connects the back of the magnet (via blu-tak) to the rear of the cabinet. I nicked that idea from Tannoy. What else will you do? 9mm is pretty bold, but for sure a well-braced 9mm cabinet will be better than an 18mm poorly braced one. Hope it goes well! by the way, top tip for ports: Screwfix sell 100mm diameter poly pipe in 200mm (iirc) lengths, designed for tumble dryer outlets. It's a good interference fit in a hole drilled with a Screwfix 2" holesaw.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='138864' date='Feb 12 2008, 02:09 PM']I've done a diagram to show the when to shim and when to adjust the truss-rod. You should check the relief of the neck first, but in my experience when I've run out of bridge adjustment the it's been the neck/body angle that needs adjusting not the relief of the neck (except once when both needed adjusting!). The tilt the neck back to lower the action the shim needs to got at the body end of the pocket. Hopefully the diagram makes all this clear.[/quote] pictures worth 1000+ words. Gold star!

[quote name='BigRedX' post='138824' date='Feb 12 2008, 01:13 PM']You need to shim the neck. Take the neck off and cut a piece of thin plastic (I used the plastic from the blister pack from a set a of TI strings - it doesn't need to be very thick) the width of the neck pocket and about one third to half the depth (the smaller the shim depth the greater the angle). Fit this at the body end of the neck pocket and re-attach the neck. It may take a couple of tries to get the right combination of length and thickness and you'll be surprised just how much difference such a small amount of "padding" makes. The truss rod should be used to set the relief of the neck only.[/quote] Is my advice wrong then? I'm not suggesting that adjusting the truss rod is necessarily the solution, but surely if it's too loose then the relief should be adjusted first, then when that's right get onto shimming if necessary.

[quote name='markdavid' post='138815' date='Feb 12 2008, 01:01 PM']Hi , was wondering if anyone would be able to help , I have aquired a new p bass , have lowered the bridge saddles as low as they will go but action is still quite high. Do I need to tighten or loosen truss rod to correct this ?[/quote] It sounds like you have to tighten it, to counterbalance the strings. Be careful though, it could just be that the neck is perfectly straight but is too low in the pocket. I've seen this a few times. If this is the case you'll need to shim the neck (or mutilate the bridge saddles). There should be a sticky somewhere here on setup and truss rod adjustment. Basically if you fret (simultaneously) at the 1st and 21st frets, is the gap between the string and the 10th fret excessive? If it's less than the thickness of a business card don't try and tighten the truss any further.