flyfisher

An old gamekeeper once told me how to use linseed oil to treat a newly cut walking stick, using the following regime to sparingly apply the oil: "once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, then once a year for life". His sticks were always in great condition, though I doubt he knew much about basses

Proper Christmas story that. Thanks for sharing and respect to Mr Pirie - that's the smile on my face sorted for the day! Nice one.

I've never heard of using linseed oil on a fretboard. I use linseed oil and paint for various things but I don't think i'd risk it on my bass because it can take a long time to dry, especially if there is already another finish present.

Bought an active stage monitor from Nick. Item in great condition as described, Nick was very responsive to PMs and flexible regarding my collection arrangements - all of which was expected as I have bought from Nick before and already knew he is a top BCer. Thanks Nick!

That ECB-04 unit looks like it's a US-only version. This website shows it having a fixed US-style mains connection. http://www.americanmusical.com/Item--i-DUN-ECB04 This type of unit will require 110v mains supply and would not work in the UK without using a step-down transformer. it's a great shame, because it looks like a linear regulated PSU and would almost certainly do the job, but such devices have fixed mains voltages. This is an advantage of switched-mode PSUs - they can operate on any mains supply around the world.

That's a similar situation to some switch-mode PSUs needing a minimum load. If the OP fancies playing around with things, it might be worth trying to increase the load on the PSU because the pre-amp is only drawing a tiny current - less than 5mA. I would add a resistor across the PSU 18v terminals to draw extra current. It's a 150mA PSU so something around 50mA would seem reasonable. A 360 ohm resistor will draw 50mA and dissipate 0.9W, so something close to that will do. Just checked Maplin and their nearest suitable resistor seems like this one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/wirewound-10-watt-470-ohm-resistor-h470r 470 ohms will draw about 38mA at 18 volts and dissipate about 0.7W, so a 10 watt resistor should not get too hot. Worth a go for 84p if there is a Maplin store nearby.

Good for him. He's reportedly worth $130m so why not retire and spend the rest of his life enjoying himself instead of putting up with all that fame nonsense. I would.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1387314487' post='2310681'] I think it always helps to state how disgruntled one is in writing; in your case you might write a letter to the shop; even though you've already spoken to them; [/quote] Agreed. In fact, always follow up verbal complaints with a letter referring to the conversation and repeating all the points discussed. A telephone complaint is bad enough for the shop but as soon as the call finishes they can forget about it. A letter on their desk requires more definite action, even if it's just tearing it up, and a letter also provides a record of events in case things need to be escalated in the future.

That PSU looks like a switcher and is 150mA, which is pretty low capacity but plenty for that pre-amp, if the 4.3mA figure is correct. Note that I can't be sure that switching noise is the actual problem, it's only a guess, but if you want to try another PSU then almost any 18vdc unit will do. I quickly found this linear one: http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/85096-ac-dc-linear-psu-18v-500ma-universl-s2071st-stontronics.html#similarProducts It's way over what you need at 500mA but that's probably a good thing as it's an unregulated supply. But I couldn;t find a 'ripple' spec and being unregulated it might not be that good (ripple is the variation on the outpur voltage, which can affect the device it is powering, depending on the device itself. Sorry to be vague but sometimes these things just need to be tried out. Beware of the DC plug polarity though - this one seems to be centre-positive but your PSU seems to be centre-negative. It's easy to change this, but if you're not comfortable with wiring/soldering then search for a different unit. Or, try another switcher PSU just in case you have a faulty unit. This maplin one has multiple connectors so shouldn't need any messing about with connectors: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-20w-switched-mode-acdc-fixed-voltage-18v-worldwide-power-supply-l49bl If that all sounds a bit daunting, then it might just be easier to take the pre-amp and PSU back to the place you bought them, if possible. Incidentally, because the current draw of the pre-amp is so low, a Duracell type should last about 100 hours at a current of 5mA according to this datasheet, so it might take quite a while to recover the cost of a PSU. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/612543.pdf

You don't mention the PSU part number but a quick search makes me guess it's a switch-mode PSU. These sorts of PSUs adjust their switching frequency depending on the current being drawn. In some circumstances, with some designs, if a high current is drawn from them, the switching frequency can drop down into the audible range as a squeaking/screaming sound. Which makes some sort of sense. But I also checked the preamp datasheet and the stated current draw is 4.3mA, which is tiny, so it makes sense to offer battery operation as well as an external PSU. But that makes nonsense of my first paragraph! Unless, perhaps, the PSU has a [u]minimum[/u] load requirement, which is more often the case with large switch-mode PSUs. As a general rule, I don't like switch-mode PSUs for audio applications, especially cheap ones where the cost cutting is often around the noise filtering components. If it were me, I'd send it back and look for a 'linear' 18v PSU, the sort that uses a traditional mains transformer,

[quote name='SlipperySquid' timestamp='1387301745' post='2310489'] No mate, because the person I spoke to, who had apparently spoke to the manufacturer of the amp on two occasions would have known that they never had it. They also assured me that they would personally tell them that it was urgently needed...lol..the more I think about it you can only laugh I'm not to bothered about the amp failing to be honest as I can understand these things happen...it's what happens after they fail that counts [/quote] In that case, I'd write a formal complaint to the manager naming the person responsible. He clearly needs a bit of 'customer orientation' training! Failing that, there's always Beedster's approach. Fair point about the amp failure. As you rightly say, stuff happens - and it's usually only then that you really find out about the true customer service ethos of a company.

Just to be sure, is it possible there was a mix-up inside the shop? Could the person you spoke to have genuinely thought the amp had been sent back to the manufacturer by someone else in the shop? Even so, not really an excuse for poor service but could be the reason for the 'lies' perhaps? A sorry tale though. Even a £1000 amp failing after 6 months is not that great

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0L4kPdMFNc Not sure about the pipe though . . .

[quote name='Kevsy71' timestamp='1387213605' post='2309479'] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#444444]So my question...[/color][/font][/size] [color=#444444][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]If the input impedance represents the load 'seen' by whatever is plugging into it, surely a higher input impedance means a higher load. Given that impedance is resistance (more or less), why does this allow more of the bass signal through - I would have thought it would have allowed less?[/font][/color] [/quote] It's the other way around - the higher the input impedance of the amp, the LOWER the load 'seen' by whatever is plugging into it. You may be imagining the input impedance as a resistor in series with the amp input, but it's effectively across the input and ground. Thus, a low input impedance will 'pull down' the input signal down to ground, thus reducing its amplitude, more than a high input impedance. Think of 'output impedance' as being a resistor in series with the output of the driving device and 'input impedance' as being a resistor between the input of the amp and ground. When the output device is plugged into the amp input the series resistor is connected to the input resistor, the other side of which is connected to ground. In other words, the output signal is connected to two series resistors then ground. The amp takes its input from between the two resistors, which effectively act as a potential divider. I hope that helps. A drawing would be better but when I tried to draw a simple diagram the forum software seems to strip out all spaces and messes up any diagram. Thinking in simple resistor terms can help with understanding the basic principles but, as Dincz rightly pointed out, there is inductance and capacitance to take into account in a real-world circuit, which makes the simple potential divider description frequency dependent.

Great song - loved it!

Sounds promising. Good luck!

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1387126432' post='2308435'] . . . . I personally don't care what people use... why would it matter to me at all? . . . . I'd only have an opinion about their sound if I saw them playing.... and took any notice. . . . . other than that, it really isn't my problem or concern. [/quote] Long post for someone so indifferent.

19-inch rack blanking panels are widely available online in various 'U' sizes and will have the required rack-mounting screw-holes already punched out. It would be fairly easy to cut one of these in half and then bend each piece as required for the width of the amp. Drill the necessary amp-mounting holes and the job's a good'un. Try not to get a too high-quality blanking panel as these may be rather thick and not easy to cleanly bend without a sheet metal press. Alternatively, search for a metal fabrication business in a local industrial estate and pop along with the two pieces of panel with the required line of the bend clearly marked. Ask nicely and you'll probably find they'll make a nice sharp bend for you for nothing, but give them a fiver anyway. If you have marked the required drill holes they'll probably do that for you as well. This sort of approach works best with very small companies rather than the bigger ones. Basically, you need the sort of place where you can walk directly into the workshop, not a carpeted office with the workshop out the back.

I thought Off-Topic was the 'Whatever' club . . . .

More info here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/224282-markbass-cab-parallel-speakon-inputs/page__view__findpost__p__2301827

Just bought a flight case from Will. Exactly as described, great communications, prompt delivery and I've never seen a flight case packed so well. A perfect transaction - can't ask for more. Thanks Will!

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1386798858' post='2304836'] Ray Dorset's Mum was a dinner lady at our school. [/quote] During an overnight business trip to Milan, I watched Mungo Jerry play a couple of songs on some awful Italian TV game show. The following day I sat just behind Ray Dorset on the flight home. I don't think he recognised me though.

[quote name='RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE' timestamp='1386791274' post='2304682'] This has turned into an elo thread. What about . . . mungo jerry, . . . ? [/quote] One of the bands I'm in used to cover a Mungo jerry song . . . no, not [u]that[/u] one, this one (we played it a bit 'punkier' though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RedM0X1tWE

Do 'real bands' play covers?

[quote name='Urban Bassman' timestamp='1386754797' post='2303953'] I'm about to start work learning Hysteria . . . . . [/quote] Too late. You've been made redundant: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UYMnzXQEtw and without the backing track . . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UYMnzXQEtw