kingforaday

I’ve always used a 4u case for Each 2u amp I’ve had... added a 1u blanking plate Above that, then a rack tuner above that. Gives plenty of room for storing all the cables etc I’ve done this for years with all different amps and I’ve never had any problems at all

Yes from me, although only because of the simplicity of the spectracomp... with other compressors I found I was constantly fiddling and fussing with the controls, so I started leaving it out altogether... then I tried the spectracomp, so much better

Nice one FlatEric, yeah it’s an obsession that shows no signs of easing off! i’m putting another one back together at the moment, just need to find a neck and It’s good to go... I also have a really badly modified (not by me) body I’m refinishing and have most of the parts for but again the neck has been destroyed If anyone has any parts, particularly necks, send me a message!

Yeah I know, it’s so rare to see one here. I’d had the neck for years (I had it shipped from a America) and I bought it to try on the white one... I pretty much buy whatever parts I see and eventually ended up with everything required to put that natural/rosewood one together. i listed another black/maple I had on eBay and despite loads of interest, it wasn’t selling, so I listed the natural/rosewood... the black sold - which meant I could buy the sunburst... then the natural sold too! I don’t think I’ve ever been more sorry to see something go! Fingers crossed I find another T40 I want soon... cuz the money won’t last!

Hey, the natural (rosewood fretboard) has already gone! The 3 in the centre of the pics will be staying... the white will be the next to be listed but hopefully I find it’s 82 replacement first!

Nice to see a thread I started in 2009 resurfacing! My obsession hasn't slowed in the years that have passed... in fact I just took delivery of my latest T40 today! A beautiful sunburst 82... Which joins the 82 family - And the rest! I'm trying to collect all the finish options from 1982 as that's when I was born... The other 2 aren't from my birth year so they'll be sold on once I find their replacements!

At my request, I actually prefer it that way with the lip on the surface... I’d always presumed that was the normal/correct way, until i was about to get the work done and read that a lot of people go for it flush with the finish... ta very much, yeah visually everything is exactly how I always wanted it and the pickups and preamp have made a massive difference to the sound quality and ooomph of the bass, well pleased!

Done! I ended up getting the hipshot A style bridge and getting a luthier I know to install it... I also got him to utilise the bridges’ string through option, by putting some holes through the body and black gotoh string ferrules to make it look tidy. so very happy with the results! Expensive but on a bass I will never sell due to sentimental reasons... it seemed worth it to me.

Bought a pedal from Graeme, quick trouble free transaction and the pedal arrived well packaged and in good working order. Thanks!

Here’s what I’ve done so far... Gotoh Gb707 tuners... major upgrade on quality emg 40dc pickups X2 - again big improvement, volume, sound quality and with the btc preamp its way more versatile. smaller control knobs and switch. Purely aesthetic but to me, it really improves the look and makes it appear more expensive than it is which got me thinking... dare I go for a string through body conversion!?! I realise there’s much debate as to whether it actually improves anything but purely from a “I’m modding this thing anyway” point of view, I may do

From my experience, the earlier the better... I’ve owned 2, the other was good but was somehow lacking in the fit and finish department... latter one was lighter too which I guess could be seen as a good thing, but to me it’s always made instruments feel cheap - hence my unhealthy obsession with the seriously weighty Peavey T40!

I’ve started! Not finished yet but so far... replaced the tuners with gotoh gb707’s (I bought gb350 Res-o-lites first... plastic buttons... really?! Gross. Those are now on eBay!) the gb707’s are great... I found a good price, they’re really good quality, great look and a direct drop in replacement, so super easy too. I bought a pair of emg40dc pickups with a BTC stack pot and wiring... I started obsessing over the switch/control knob size/style etc and I’ve only just tracked the parts I need down. It’s gonna look great though... Very quickly wired it up to make sure it works but haven’t really played with it yet... Next will be the bridge - still a little torn... I always wanted the hip shot A style just purely for looks and adjustability... it’s pricey though and I can’t afford it right now! I had the B style on another bass and it was cool, I do love the top loading aspect of hipshot bridges. Nothing is gonna be both an upgrade and a simple drop in replacement though, so I’m gonna have to get the drill out (I really didn’t want to have to do that) once I’m done, I’ll chuck some pics up because it’s coming together really nicely and I’m glad I’m finally doing it

Bought a couple of pedals from Chris yesterday... they arrived today... AM!! Very fast shipping and packaged with the kind of care and attention to detail that would make a fussy so and so like me proud! very pleased and would have no reservations about buying from Chris again in future

Interesting, plenty of love for Wilkinson then! kinda what I was hoping for really, although it’s one I know if I’ve never really paid much attention to them... I’ll check out some of their stuff

I was just contemplating the old ‘hipshot, Schaller or gotoh’ conundrum on a bass I’m fixing up... and then thought “I wonder if there’s a cheaper (or even a similarly priced but not so well known) alternative I’m overlooking? what are the best quality bridges/machineheads that either fall in the ‘great cheap stuff’ or ‘expensive but worth it’ type categories?

Got any pics of it? Just guess work without seeing it but if there’s not much in it, would adding a washer or 2 (or spacer of some kind) between body and socket give the clearance you need?

Unfortunately I’m not entirely sure, it just sounded like something was crackling and a bit of a hum and then I turned it off... could’ve been the speaker making the noise. There was the smell of burning electronics but no actual smoke as far as I could tell. I haven’t touched it since. Put a new speaker in the cab though so that’s ok now. it’s annoying as although I have mainly steered clear of power sections on amps through lack of knowledge... I did mod a guitar amp I have, there was way more to it but it went fine. Although to be fair it was supplied in kit form with really comprehensive instructions. i guess with this I just figured as it seemed so straightforward, It wouldn’t be an issue

I've owned a couple of these amps and they are surprisingly fantastic-sounding. I got into a discussion of it with Bobby Baldwin (Peavey amp engineer) and he made some great suggestions about the output coupling capacitor that were easy to implement: "Basically, capacitors pass higher frequencies with ease, but lower frequencies have a harder time passing through. This means that your power amp puts out a little less in the low frequency range than it does at 1K. The other thing that happens is that when you start to clip the power amp with low frequencies, instead of a pleasant growl, you get a nasty buzz sound. The way to fix that is to use a larger capacitor, but... The other thing is that capacitors can be inductive, especially electrotytic caps, because the plates are rolled into a coil. This means that your power amp also puts out a little less in the upper audio range because the inductance starts to factor in a little. Inductors pass lower frequencies freely, but tend to block higher frequencies. Just using a larger capacitor can increase the inductance because the plates can be longer, thus more inductance. Ultimately, the output response of your power amp is sort of a bell curve. This capacitor is also subject to high ripple current (rapid charging and discharging) because there is pure, high AC current passing through it all the time. This can dramatically shorten the life of a capacitor. The way to get around all of this is to use multiple capacitors in parallel, one of them being a film capacitor so there is no high frequency degradation. The inductance will go down because inductors in parallel divide. The ripple current will also divide so you won't be stressing a single cap." Implementing this idea cost me less than $5 in parts and made a HUGE improvement in the sound of the amp -- much bigger down low and more open on top. See the attached pic; the coupling cap is located in the lower right hand corner of the power amp board. For reference, in the attached pic, the speaker jacks are in the upper right and the mounting tab for the filter cap is in the lower right.

Ok, so here’s what was done, I’ll find the text from people explaining what is done and why in a sec removed existing cap and replaced with a stack of caps and a film cap

Well, in hind sight no... but if someone told you, you could take your gear and with just a few quids worth of parts, improve it massively would you not at least want to try!? i’ll get some pics and details

Thanks, this is what I was thinking of... the amp tech I used to have at work mentioned it can happen to me once and it always stuck in my brain but not enough to understand it! It is indeed solid state so is it as simple as, set the multi meter to dc, put the probes on the socket, if I get a reading then it’s going to damage speakers?

I know i'm opening myself up to "if you don't know what you're doing, leave it to the professionals" type comments but hopefully someone can offer some advice... I bought an old Peavey Century amp head out of curiosity and was surprised how good it sounded, I started googling information/opinion on them. I found a lot of threads on other forums in which people mentioned that although they're good, doing an inexpensive mod, that involved adding capacitors because "The additional capacitors make the bottom end bigger and the top end more open." would really improve the amp. I messaged a guy who had done the mod and he talked me through what I needed and how to do it, assuring me it was very easy etc etc I got the parts, followed the instructions and all seemed to go well until i put it back together and turned it on and it made a crackling noise and smelt of burnt out electrics! So i turned it off. I checked my speaker cab with another amp and it had blown the speaker. I messaged the guy and he's gone very quiet all of a sudden (!) to be fair to him, it's not really his problem. I've now replaced the speaker and its back up and running on a different amp but that leaves me unsure how to proceed with this one. I could go through it again and check for issues, I could try putting it back as it was, I could muck about with it to my hearts content but ultimately, I'll have to plug it into a cab again to audio test it. So at that point, or hopefully before, is there a way to test the output to the cab to know it won't do the same thing? I have a multi meter, I'm pretty good with a soldering iron/tools etc but sadly this is the first experience of the power/amp side of things, so my knowledge is zero. Thanks

Cheers guys, still searching, but some good options there