-
Posts
1,277 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by SamIAm
-
Help needed: Identifying source of unwelcome "rattle".
SamIAm replied to SamIAm's topic in Amps and Cabs
I'm confident it's not the bass (My other bass produces similar sounds and is very different, peizo active pickups; both bases also sound fine thro my combo) Great idea! S'manth x -
Help needed: Identifying source of unwelcome "rattle".
SamIAm replied to SamIAm's topic in Amps and Cabs
The recording is not great (I'll try to get a better one tomorrow) but even with the TC 208 cab there is some 'rattle' (It's the best word I can find) which does make me question the amp, coupled with the previous owner having mentioned 'something' about it. I don't have a second amp to try, but am trying to figure out how to get hold of an alternative for long enough to give it a go. I could consider lugging the C4 along to my local guitar shop to try an amp or two (Which would be GAK). S'manth x -
Help needed: Identifying source of unwelcome "rattle".
SamIAm replied to SamIAm's topic in Amps and Cabs
Thanks @Downunderwonder, there is nothing but unadorned (well, they are painted) walls within 2m and the floor is carpeted ... I'm sure the sound is coming from the cab itself. Like your 'sit' test, I'll give it a go tomorrow. S'manth x -
Help needed: Identifying source of unwelcome "rattle".
SamIAm replied to SamIAm's topic in Amps and Cabs
Thanks @PaulThePlug, I've tried it tilted and rattle remains., It has feet on one side only ... tho that does not preclude me from trying it in different orientations, I'll give it a go tomorrow at a more 'social' hour for my neighbours S'manth x -
Help needed: Identifying source of unwelcome "rattle".
SamIAm replied to SamIAm's topic in Amps and Cabs
Thanks @Lozz196 The C4 is a 4x5inch layout, no tweeters. All the cones appear fine (visually) S'manth x -
Hi BC massive! I've little experience with head/cab setups and need your help/advice regarding a problem I have with such a setup. After attending the SE bass bash I concluded that my small/light combo needed a big brother. I purchased a PJB C4 from here on BC, it arrived yesterday, nicely packed, condition as described (As you'd expect given the glowing feedback for the BCer I bought it from). Set it up as follows: Bass = Ibinex GSRM25, passive pickups. Guitar cable = brand new Fender Deluxe Series Instrument Cable - 5m Amp = TC Electric BH250 (Well, to be accurate it is the amp section of a BG250-208 that had been disconnected from the cab by the very kind person who gifted it to me after my fire. I have vague memories of him mentioning it had been done due to some 'thing' that no longer seemed to be a problem) Amp cable = brand new Stagg 2m S Series Speakon to Speakon Lead Cab = PJB C4 <bass> -> <head> -> <cab> Amp settings: Gain: Passive Pickups. All tone controls set to 12 o'clock (neutral), TonePrint all the way off, master at 12 O'clock. I am finding that when I play the E or B the C4 'rattles' , the sound seems to eminate from the rear of the cab. I have moved it around, away from stuff it might be rattling. I cannot feel any movement of the rear panel. Not a great recording, but with headphones on it does illustrate the rattle I'm talking about ... yech! PJB.wav I would usually go through the process of swapping out all the different bits to try and identify the problem. Different bass, same thing. Different guitar cable, same thing. I've just the one amp, but I moved it back to the TC cab (this also meant a different speakon cable) and .... hmmmm ... not the same, but not good! TC.wav What could it be? The seller said they'd not had this issue and they used a 250W Markbass (So simple old me imagines it is not a power mismatch) Can you share your Advice/Experience/Suggestions please? Could it be the Amp? S'manth x
-
🤯 There I was thinking I was beginning to understand! lol S'manth x
-
So in simple terms @Phil Starr, if the amp is quoting 250W into 4Ω and I hook it up an 8Ω cab, it will be pushing out circa 125W, maybe a tad more? For a 100W rated cab, one would need to avoid going full volume, otherwise the cab might get pushed too hard, will sound bad and perhaps even be damaged? The amp will not being running at its max and distortion will likely be less? For a 300W rated cab even at full volume the amp cannot overload the cab (Tho will not sound as loud as it could)? Presumably in the real world, driving an amp at full power will introduce more distortion? Would it be fair to assume that IF these two cabs had the same sensitivity (Which I don't really grok) that the sound perceived would be in the same ballpark or would it be quieter on the 300W cab? In tangible terms, in this demo, the amp can't blow the cab as the BP-800 has Power Output (RMS) of 800w/4Ω, 400w/8Ω and the C4 is listed as Handling 400 watts (RMS) and is 8 Ω? (Please note I do not ask about RMS lol) S'manth x Did someone mention a C4!?
-
If it takes 10 men, 43 hours to dig a ditch, how long ... ooops, wrong question! One If a head is rated as follows and the speakon connector sayas 4 ohm min load. Is it fair to think it will put out half of these figures into an 8 ohm load? Two I'm using a multi f/x (MOD Dwarf) that has amp modelling capabilities. If I want to get an approximation of FRFR, and use a cab that gives low colouration ... can I use a head that has an F/X loop and use the multi f/x into the FX return to bypass any EQ in the head? Three If the answer to Two is yes, would it be reasonable to expect the head to not add colour when used in this way or would this require a 'special' head or simply selecting the 'right' head? S'manth x
-
Might not be small enough, but you can do neural modelling on the MOD Dwarf using the Aida-X plugin. https://mod.audio/modeling-amps-and-pedals-for-the-aida-x-plugin-best-practices/ You can get a version of MOD software that runs on Windows/MacOS/Linux to have a play without spending any pennies. https://github.com/moddevices/mod-app/releases/tag/0.0.4 And there are a number of captures to be found https://forum.mod.audio/t/list-of-shared-models/9631/8 There is also a NAM plugin for the system https://pedalboards.moddevices.com/plugins/aHR0cDovL2dpdGh1Yi5jb20vbWlrZW9saXBoYW50L25ldXJhbC1hbXAtbW9kZWxlci1sdjI= tho it is reported to suck more CPU than the Aida-X S'manth x
-
Hofner 500/1 Violin Bass 1962 - Mersey Would do very nicely for me as it is a short scale Tho the one pictured is for sale at £10,000 🤯 ... even the reissue comes in at about £2k ... but a girl can dream! 😊 S'manth x
-
The Short Scale Bass Appreciation Society!
SamIAm replied to Baloney Balderdash's topic in Bass Guitars
Yes, Ibby FTW with 5str shorts. I tried the TMB-35. I found the neck dive drove me mad! An option would be to replace the tuning mechanisms with lighter ones, but not sure how much difference it would make. It went back to GAK. I landed on the GSRM25, it is a sub-short scale at 28.6 inches and the low B does need a gentle touch, but I really like it ... very light and great balance. https://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_gsrm25_bk.htm S'manth x -
PM'd
-
Sadly not I tried my Mac with various USB cables and even upgraded MacOS (Which got it working with my MOD Dwarf as it had not been doing before). I also installed windows on another Intel laptop and it also would not recognise the Core. In addition, I had some odd noise issues, I would get crackling sounds when I touched the knobs. I saw on the 'other place' a user who reported similar and had to return the Core as faulty; I was also able to do so with the one I'd bought. I'm back to using my Dwarf (Or my Zoom B1XFour). As well as being nice and tidy, the Core ran off 9v (The Dwarf needs 12v) and it allowed on device editing of stuff (The Dwarf has an amazing UI but it needs a seperate device running web browser to access, onboard parameter tweaking is possible but you can't change 'pedals' or edit 'pedalboards') I'd be tempted to try it again if I could find one at a good price, but at present I'm fiddling with my Dwarf f/x (And also again exploring a self build based on the MOD software). S'manth x
-
Brand wise I'd give YIHUA a double thumbs up. I bought one of their rework stations (temp controlled soldering iron + hot air gun) June 2022; it worked well and felt nice and solid. It 'survived' my fire (as it was low down in my study so only got soot stained). Just inside the 12 month warranty period the hot air gun stopped sensing temp so would just keep running ... and then glowing!! I contacted YIHUA who were very responsive; after sending in a video of the problem I received a replacement hot air gun in about 4 days ... that did not sort the issue and a few days later a totally new unit arrived! If I were going for an iron, I'd be tempted by this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BX9JPSZX?pd_rd_i=B0BX9JPSZX&pf_rd_p=2d7f55fa-4115-4b0b-9563-c60c7ced8ca1&pf_rd_r=VKE44HP0VBN8SQ9QQ2MN&pd_rd_wg=IaVs3&pd_rd_w=JeDaF&pd_rd_r=309846bb-f4df-42de-a794-c83b50720d00 The helping hands are removeable (similar to the setup I use), so only there if needed ... it seems to have good reviews and is a few quid less. I've a multimeter made by Kaiweet and it is fab quality! S'manth x
-
USB class compliance seems a must! I've seen a review of the MOTU M4 (Which uses class compliant USB) and using jack/alsa/qjackctrl it supports all 4 in/outs: The MOD software is built on top of Jack so should work (Of course until I actually try it ...) it's the latency that concerns me 🧐 S'manth x
-
USB class compliance seems a must! I've seen a review of the MOTU M4 (Which uses class compliant USB) and using jack/alsa/qjackctrl it supports all 4 in/outs: The MOD software is built on top of Jack so should work (Of course until I actually try it ...) it's the latency that concerns me 🧐 S'manth x
-
Thanks for your reply. What you describe about the latency is what concerns me . I gather that linux kernel 5.16 introduced some improvements in this space. I'm not sure many people do have a Pi5 yet, I've ordered one but unlikely to get it this side of 2024! I gather from the paper specs that it is improved over the Pi4 from both a CPU and IO perspective, but the acid test would be of course to test it out. I'd most likely be running the MOD open source s/w on it, the MOD Dwarf uses a Cortex A-35 @ 1.3GHz, the Pi5 Cortex A-76 specs are significantly better (twice the cpu closk speed/larger L1/2/3 caches/faster memory IO/etc) ... I have had the Mod s/w running on a Pi4 using a hat based audio card (HiFiBerry) and performance was OK, I'd expect the Pi5 to fly, but I had a noise issue ... paper specs says the USB is better as they have rearchitected the IO controller. And they have added support for M.2 SSD so SD failure can be avoided. MOD have released varients of their software that run on Windows/Linux/Mac but a laptop is going to be too large , whilst I will want to incorporate some knobs/switches/stomp switches and a display, it will still be wee. My aforementioned Pi4 device was tiny! You can see how it compared in size ... No damp towel , just some stuff I need to take into account, this sort of feedback is why I love BC! S'manth x
-
I need to have a fun electronics project on the go S'manth x
-
Which generation is the 2i2? S’manth x
-
I really quite like my MOD Dwarf multi f/x ... the one thing it does not do (And I really wish it would) is support on device configuration of presets. Connect a device (laptop/tablet/phone) via USB and fire up a web browser and OMG you can do amazing things, but once disconnected the 'tweakability' on the Dwarf itself is constrained to swapping presets (pedalboards in the MOD lingo), snapshots and using the onboard knobs/switches to tweak some things (for instance the wet/dry mix, active/bypass, rate, etc elements of the different plugins, the equivalent of pedals), these are things that you have defined using the web UI; but I don't want to have to use a laptop/tablet as part of my live rig. There are some who have used the MOD software (which is open source bless them) running on a Raspberry Pi and added in some extra capability. Before I got my Dwarf, I'd done the same ... but when using a Pi approach the way most go (as did I) is to use an add-on audio card on the Pi. This is a tidy solution, but I found that I was getting noise using this approach (The Pi radiatees digital EMI and the adjacent audio card picks it up) also, I've not been able to find one of these that is not just 2x Mono In/Out or 1xStereo In/Out. So ... what about using a USB audio interface (Such as a Focusrite Scarlett 4i4) to provide better noise isolation and get 4xMono In/Out !? My intent would be to mount the USB Audio Interface on a physical pedalboard along with a Pi based custom built, small as a small thing, cute as a button computer (With a display and knobs/switches on it) to run a DAW (Well, most likely the MOD open source software with some customisations to allow patch editing in a similar way to a HX Stomp/GT-1000 Core) so that the whole shooting match is on a single portable board, but more importantly is fully self contained. The new Pi5 is shipping soon and it is stonkingly powerful, it's just the performance (especially latency) of the USB Audio interface that is a big unknown to me. And so to my question(s) What has been your experience of using USB audio interfaces for live effects? I suspect the most common setup would be to have a PC or Laptop with a DAW running plugins and using a USB audio interface. What sort of round trip latency have you been able to get down to? (Straight in/out, without any plugins running in the DAW) Is it usable live, or is the delay too great? Which USB audio interfaces have you found to be great (or not so great)? Are there any 'real' USB 3 Audio interfaces? S'manth x
-
Yes ... but! The latency (delay) when sending audio over bluetooth is (in my experience) too high to do so in a satisfactory way. ymmv. Imagine you have your bass plugged directly into a cab and this is (for example) 2m from your ear. Assuming you have no digital f/x stuff in the cab, you can expect the audio to hit your ears aprox 6 milliseconds after you pluck a string. With the latest version of bluetooth (5) you can expect the delay to be around 20-40 milliseconds (as if the cab was 7 - 13m away); a google shows up that at 10-15 milliseconds, the delay can start to be noticeable/annoying. S'manth x
-
Sounds FAB!! S'manth x
-
My mics were bought. S'manth x
-
this may provide some options ... S'manth x