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SamIAm

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by SamIAm

  1. That would be totally amazing! When the band I was in played a pride gig a while back the best I could manage was via various sharpies! 🤣 Sam x PS Your description of the factors around 3D printing are very eloquent!
  2. Bargain! I've already got a Sonicake VolWah (Which is smaller but not so rugged) so I am just avoiding GAS. GLWTS! Sam x
  3. I'm in the early stages of thinking/designing my next bass build. Is it better to shape the curvature of a fingerboard before or after gluing it to the neck? Sam x
  4. Having bought one and sending it back (display timeout was a royal pain) I settled on a pre-loved HX Stomp and am very happy with it (Which is odd as I had one a couple of years ago and could not get on with it ... I think my expectations/requirements have matured changed). Perfect ... no ... but it does do everything I really need and I've a power brick which lets me drive it without mains. I am still loath to part with my B1X-Four tho as it is very sound, was chip as chips and uses internal AAs. Sam x
  5. How did you get on with Logic Pro Rob? Sam x
  6. Many of the basses I’ve fiddled with have ground soldered to the pot cases, just need an iron that goes hot enough. Sam x
  7. Ouch! I modelled a sorta spline pattern when I printed and did not have the same problem, I used petg. Sam x
  8. I’ve 3D printed knobs in the past with good results. I imagine you and your sexy gear would get excellent results. Sam x
  9. I’ve been tempted, but ended up going for a set by @Andre_Passini. I did find a comparison of what I think is the same system you posted. I believe ALP designed it. I was concerned about the little key it uses. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALP-Headless-Bass-Bridge-WB1005/dp/B099Q1M8Z2 Sam x
  10. I've just today put a set (B->G .130->.050) on my Ibanez GSRM25 (5 String 28.6 inch scale) to replace the stock set and they seem very nice with a perfect wrap length (The main problem I've found in restringing), they are a 'special' set that Newtone have yet to list on their website ... but an email to Neil at [email protected] and you can have yours for £37.52 (including UK postage). Sam x
  11. I use Logic Pro X and have ended up with Musictechhelpguy on Youtube as my goto. https://www.youtube.com/user/MusicTechHelpGuy/videos Sam x
  12. It is so very very close for me, I mean ... 5er Short Scale Zero Nut Headless would be my dream but I can pass on that Sadly the finish is totally not my style ... if only it was the flamed maple! GLWTS @pluckedout Sam x
  13. Funk You Funk This Funk That Funk It (All) Sam x
  14. What a beauty! (I mean the bass ofc lol) Sam x
  15. I'd love a Kiesel Vadar ... Headless 5er in 30 inch scale. Sadly at nearly two grand I have resigned myself to a DIY version, which I've done before and I've got the bits ... I just need to find the energy (Sadly suffering from fatigue these past few months which has curtailed most non-work activities) Sam x
  16. OUCH JRK! So sorry to hear of this ... glad tho that you got great care. Sam x
  17. What an absolutely amazing creation! You are truly a 3D god. Sam x
  18. ++1 on the MOTU M4, a lovely bit of kit, great quality and v.low latency. Use it with my Mac Book and Logic Pro. Sam x
  19. Which of course never happens here on BC. Sam x
  20. I've a ubass like that, it is lovely to play and sounds great ... I must give it some more attention. and I know of folks who have defretted Mikro 4s or 5s. Sam x
  21. This schematic claims to be for that EQ and it shows a 20K pot. https://everycircuit.com/circuit/5314341701681152/active-2-band-bass-guitar-eq- Also, this post has some more info https://www.talkbass.com/threads/1990-ibanez-sr1000-wiring-help.1089289/post-16157750 Sam x
  22. If you pretend that the JFC pre is instrument 1 and the JFC post is instrument 2 might this approach work? Sam x
  23. As I understand it ... The term linear is one that describes how the pot resistance changes relating to its position (Its taper) , the following is roughly how it works. A center detent pot has a physical notch or dimple such that when it is moved to the centre position you get that little 'click' to indicate such, the electrical behaviour of the pot remains the same. A common blend control is actually two pots with a single control shaft, as you turn the signal going through one pot increases whilst the other one decreases. I believe a centre detent pot used to boost/cut requires some more electronics behind it (commonly active electronics) to achieve that effect. Sam x
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