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SamIAm

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Everything posted by SamIAm

  1. SamIAm
    Urm ... see how confused I was, couldn't even count correctly! 😖 Or it might have been my fear of those dusty areas on my fretboard ... Sam x
  2. SamIAm
    Uhhh ... Is that effectively BEADG up 7 semi-tones? Sam x
  3. SamIAm
    Totally agree! On my Mikro 5 the B string can take a max wrap length of 32.05 inch to stay clear of the tuning peg and the shortest flats I can find (La Bella's DEEP TALKIN' BASS) have a 32.25 inch Ball-End to Silk length. I'm considering changing my bridge to a Warwick 30125 5B, which would allow me to place the tail bridge furthur down the body and give me an extra 1/2 inch. Sam x
  4. SamIAm
    A really great video about short scale strings. Sam x
  5. SamIAm
    Might you consider a reverse P layout? Sam x
  6. SamIAm
    💡 bing! I like this idea, I'd never considered that is is sorta like having a 5er with a high C ... but with easy access to lower notes. Sam x
  7. SamIAm
    Like others, I cannot restrict it to just the one. What I found really useful was moving from fixed thumb to floating thumb (Tho I realise that many 4 string players use floating thumb), getting my head/fingers around practicing slightly revised patterns to play across the neck in any given position (rather than having to play up/down the neck) and leaving my 4 string alone. Sam x
  8. SamIAm
    I use AnyTune (pro) on my Android and it does much of what you list. https://www.anytune.app/ Sam x
  9. SamIAm
    I would not describe it as haggling, but when I'm selling, I have been open to someone asking if I could do the item for£ X (Where £X is of course lower than I listed it as) or include postage in the price; circumstances (How long it has been listed/the price that other similar items have sold for/etc) will guide me in saying yeah/neah or making a counter offer. I may take the same approach when buying if the circumstances are appropriate I feel it never hurts to ask but I would not "extract the urine". Sam x
  10. SamIAm
    Withdrawn
  11. SamIAm
    I've a GSRM20 & GSRM25. I struggled intonating the Mikro5 but found that by replacing the saddle screws with shorter M3 bolts I was able to address this without having to move the bridge. I've put on some different knobs. You can also see an approach I tried to allow the use of any length strings, based on the way that headless strings are held at the nut (But instead applied at the saddle). Sadly it did not work, the outer wrap just came apart I'm considering popping in an EMG MJ set. I'm investigating if I can vinyl wrap it ... I love the thought of something like this! (Seen on that other site) Sam x
  12. SamIAm
    Ahhh ...
  13. SamIAm
    https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/22-items-wanted-no-trades/
  14. SamIAm
    D'oh ... this should have said I started out using Freecad ... (Edited now in my post) Slicer wise, like Rob I use Prusa slicer ... it was natural as I've a Prusa printer, but I've used it also for the various 3D printers we have at my makerspace (Anycubic & Ultimaker) and it works very nicely. Sam x
  15. SamIAm
    From the 3D model side, I'd suggest is is very helpful to look at these two big 3D model sharing sites https://www.thingiverse.com/ and https://www.printables.com/ Sam x
  16. SamIAm
    Great points Rob. I'd probably lean more towards an Anycubic (When I was still musing about restoring my Prusa, I was very close to buying a Kobra 2 Pro ... they had good reviews and are fast), the Enders have a great community but have always struck me more as a tinkerer's machine. I started out using Freecad but when I started designing more complex (not crazy complex mind you) things I ran into massive reliability issues, models would just stop working. I've been playing with the free version of Fusion 360 for a couple of years now and find it is spot on, very powerful, loads of videos on how to do stuff with it and it has yet to bomb out on me. Youtube videos, despite loads of facial hair, I have found good value from https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers https://www.youtube.com/@3DPrintingNerd https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley content strikes me as sound and I enjoy their presenting styles but of course ymmv. Sam x
  17. SamIAm
    According to Prusa and also https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisRiley the Mk3.5 upgrade allows doubling print speed + some quality improvements. It seems this is due to the new mainboard being faster and using the new firmware with the Prusa IS (The main components like frame, rods, motors of the Mk3S+ are not swapped out) but it comes in at £326 (I've got the older soldered heatbed so need a replacement); A new Pi5 with nice touch screen + accelerometer + bits comes in much less ... and whilst it won't support the new generation of Prusa firmware, it will still provide the nice Octoprint integration. Sam x
  18. SamIAm
    micro-Thumpinator ? Sam x
  19. SamIAm
    Sometimes when we are not playing bass ... Sam x
  20. SamIAm
    Cool, the GPIO might be the sticky wicket as my pi2w has one dodgy USB port. edit: Tho if I cannot drive the Prusa from klipper over GPIO, I could still probably source power from GPIO and use the good USB port to drive the einsey ... hmmmm Sam x
  21. SamIAm
    I currently have a Pi 2w running Octoprint driving my Mk3S+ via GPIO, I'm investigating to see if I can: a) Run both Klipper and Octoprint on it b) If I can still use GPIO Sam x
  22. SamIAm
    Interesting ... it prompted me to google some and guess what!? This chap has instructions on how to get IS running on an Mk3S+ (using klipper and a Pi) with significant speed improvements! https://github.com/charminULTRA/Klipper-Input-Shaping-MK3S-Upgrade?tab=readme-ov-file#readme Sam x
  23. SamIAm
    One industrious man keeping the filament industry alive! 😜 Sam x
  24. SamIAm
    Sadly 34 inch is too long for my poor fretting hand ... else I'd snap this up in an instant! GLWTS! Sam x
  25. SamIAm
    Not as deeply cool as the magic that our @rwillett is producing, but hopefully they will do their job. Wasn't sure of the ideal size so have one each from 1.2mm down to 0.7mm ... Sam x If you've not yet checked out Rob's amazing 3D printed bass ...
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