SamIAm

Thank you So long as you don't call anyone from Lilliput or Blefuscu ...

Initial assembly First I cut out the perspex screen protectors for the OLEDs. Not the tidiest of cuts! (I think a "table saw" mount for my Dremel is needed ... a 3D printable one of course!) They fit in nicely. A couple of drops of superglue will hold them in place. Buttons, OLED module and LEDs fit in also. The inserts for mounting the base are a tad loose, a drop of superglue will sort this. The ESP32 controller uses Micro USB (yuck!) for power and programming, so I'm mounting a USB Micro to USB-C panel mounted adapter. First blooper! I goofed in positioning it, even with the buttons mounted at their extreme position (Which I do not like) it still does not fit correctly. I'm sure that at some point I'll need to reprint the enclosure so will correct it then. Next stage is to mount all the hardware (with glue as needed) and start with the wiring. I'd love to be able to get it up and running by the end of the day. I've spent many hours thinking/designing/testing small prototype prints over the past couple of weeks based on the following (apocryphal I believe) quotation S'manth x

Nice price! Getting OLEDs in from an electronics perspective might be tricky, physically it looks like there is no space tho.

I do like the MOD-UI interface, I gather that if you have a WiFi dongle plugged into your Mod it can be used wirelessly from, say, a tablet. I have plugged a CME Widi Master (MIDI over Bluetooth) into my Stomp. The Widi Master has a quoted 3ms latency, it's amazingly responsive. I've got Midi Designer on my iPad and can control the stomp from it (and it gets updated if I tweak the knobs on the Stomp) ... with my iPad in a mic/music stand mounted clamp. But it is not hands free, so not good for mid song changes! Also, whilst Line 6 have a rather good editor (HX Edit) it only runs on Windows/Mac OS ... from what I've seen with MOD-UI it is superior in this respect (And also it's open source!) The Morningstar units caught my eye too, they seem nice ... but without integrated Bluetooth Midi they did not tick my boxes. (Dare I suggest they are trumped by trampa lol) On a separate note I'd love to hear what you think of your Mod, how you selected it, how you use it, etc. Perhaps PM or a different thread? S'manth x

The strength of 3D printed parts depends on a number of factors. The design itself; thickness of elements; supporting struts; fillets at corners to reduce stress fractures, size of faces, etc. The type of print material used (Some are flexible, others rigid, some come with embedded carbon fibre) The number of perimeters printed (and to a lesser extent the infill density and pattern) It's based on "try it and see". Thicker walls with more perimeters and a higher infill density with a greater number of support struts etc will result in greater strength; this however comes at the cost of increased (sometimes significantly) print times; weight will also increase but for this project it's not a big consideration. So based on my previous experience I chose a set of these factors. Once assembled, if it is not strong enough then I can tweak the design, alter the print settings and try again. S'manth x

I find this sort of project a wonderfully satisfying fusion of design thinking (and rethinking), attention to detail, working with (and often around) software features. Turning a concept into a visual representation and then a physical one ... and then applying it to my music ... great fun! Enclosure So after about 9 hours of whizzing and whirring IMG_20220526_233902_MP.mp4 the enclosure has finished printing. Now to tidy it up. 3D printing (certainly at my price point) does not produce perfect results, there are small bits and bobs that need to be cleaned up. It is also possible to smooth surfaces using solvents or to sand, prime, paint ... I've yet to try these but the results I've seen have been amazing! I "might" try and see what happens if I apply Hammerite to this enclosure ... The mechanics of 3D printing (Well using this sort of 3D printing known as FDM) are such that certain artefacts are intentionally added to the print; support material (SM) is an example of this, SM provides a scaffolding for sections printed above empty space. Without SM the first few layers printed above an empty space would droop down before they cooled/solidified resulting in a very untidy finish. SM can be auto added in auto-magically in 3D printing software and it is printed at a lower density to make it easier to remove. Without support material With support material So time to grab some tools and do some tidying up. Next step is to assemble the various components to check (fingers crossed) that they fit!

The heart of my pedalboard is an HX Stomp, I am far from utilising anywhere near its full capabilities yet but still find its 3 foot-switches ... limiting. (I always have one setup for tuning/mute) ... time for an extension foot-switch. Having a rather demanding feature list and limited bank balance (I've spent too much already on my new gear) I found that then available off the shelf control units were out of reach price-wise. I'm a "maker" and love to fiddle with electronics, 3D design/printing and software development and so was born the idea of Trampa (Swedish for tread). Feature Set Compact so as to fit on my wee pedal board. 8 switch controller with digital scribble strips. Configurable via web interface (Acting as a WiFi hotspot running a web server). Support for BLE midi. Built in rechargeable battery. Not out of my price range (The bits used come in well under £100) During my research I found a really cool project (PedalinoMini) that almost met my requirements and so Trampa v1 is using it. I'm incorporating 4 OLED displays to support scribble strips for each pair of switches and want to be able to assign actions for when I depress two switches (For instance activating the tuner) so will need to modify the software; more likely I will do a clean room build as I also have plans to integrate it with a pedalboard based synth/looper/recorder (Think zynthian with a totally web based user interface). Mock-up I wanted something like this Design Housing design done in Fusion 360 Prototyping You can see a few of the prototype prints in the next photo as I dialed in the size/layout/fitting of the front panel Elements At it's beating heart is an ESP32 microcontroller (I'm using a WROOM-32 kit board), this is an amazing powerhouse with a dual core 32-bit cpu running at 240 MHz, with onboard WiFi & Bluetooth, it has 4Mb of flash/ 520Kb SRAM and can be programmed in python or C/C++. Every switch will have its own multicoloured LED (To tie in with the Stomp) and each pair will share a 0.96 inch OLED display (Crisp, clear and low power) scribble strip. the "final" enclosure is printing at present (About 6 hours left to go) and on the morrow ... assembly.

I did some research into this (for use with my HX Stomp). I found some nice ones and some really nice ones (All via google) , but none of them ticked my "must-have" boxes (The box usually unticked was needing to be reasonably priced!). So in the end I decided to build one myself ... details to go up soon in the build diaries. S'manth x

My MCR-1 upgraded with Hipshot Ultralites

Just completed a purchase of a small bass cab from Lee. Great packaging and a cracking cab ... any thing is that several of my fillings have started to shake loose lol Thanks Lee! S'manth x

Back again, this time for a pair of EMG MCCS pickups. Definitely one of the good-uns here on BC!

Bought a Pedaltrain Metro 16 from Martin to hold my toys. Great communications, rapid arrival, well packed, exactly as described. A throughly lovely chap!

That was the conclusion I arrived at also. I've recently put EMG GZR-P pups on my current bass and simply love the sound. I was considering a GZR-PJ setup, but they only do it in 4 string and I'm worried that the 5th string being somewhere between the two P pups is going to cut its signal, not such a problem with the J pup (Tho this is pure speculation on my part).

INTERESTING! The field seems to be fairly uniform across the areas where the strings run. Thank you.

Oh wise folk of BassChat. I'm in the process of drawing up a design/conversion for a 5 string. I note that some pickups are available in either 4 or 5 string variants, others not (of course the ones I really like are not!) ... so my question is ... can 4 string pickups be used with a 5 string bass? If the measurement of 5 strings 'width-wise' (from B to G) is no greater than that of the 4 strings, will it work? For example ... Does the PUP construction (Separate poles vs bar) make any difference (other than cosmetic ... strings don't line up)? Are there other factors I'm missing? S'manth x

Hi Adam and welcome! S'manth x

Welcome @Bass lover 🤗

Small but powerful ... in keeping with my bass 😅 \

I'm happy to say yes! We do mostly covers (Arranged for Uke) and mix in some close harmony singing. From time to time we'll rewrite some/most of the lyrics and/or mash two or three favourites together. As we mostly discuss/vote as a group we play what we (and sometimes the audience) enjoy

➕1️⃣

I can't speak to those amps listed, but like @TheRev my Roland Micro Bass Cube RX really does the trick. I can turn up with my Bass, the Roland and a cable, not worry about finding mains and even at mid volume it easily keeps up with the rest of the band (Up to 8 enthusiastic ukulele players/singers ... occasionally drunken lol). I'm going a different direction now as I've an HX Stomp and an Ashdown Ant and a small unpowered cab ... I'm working on the design/build of a rechargeable power unit for it all as mains-less is required at times. Still undecided about keeping the Roland ...

Just took delivery of an Ashdown Ant from Gareth. Fantastic condition ... exactly as described, excellent packaging, lightning fast delivery, great communications. Nothing could have gone more smoothly ... I would definitely deal with him in the future. Thanks Gareth!