franzbassist

In the last five years I've hardly ever played a fretted bass: fretless is so much more expressive. My Veillette Archtop fretless gives me everything I need, although my recently acquired 1970 fretless P bass is giving it a good run for the money at the moment! [url="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6640536477_c723917895_z.jpg"][/url]

[quote name='basskit_case' timestamp='1327568014' post='1513342'] My 112, is in as new condition, with hanging tag and original packaging, anybody got an idea on price for it, there is only one sale thread for a 112 on Basschat and that had a price of £190, cannot see any on ebay. [/quote] Ah, the eternal question.... "how much is it worth?"! The cab that replaced the LB112, the VS112, seems to sell for £229, so I think £190 was a touch optimistic.... The LB cabs were made in limited numbers to go with the UK-made LB heads, so I guess they are quite rare. I'd love to have one, but it would need to be the 4 ohm version (which to be honest I thought all the UK LB cabs were?), and given how slow the market is at the moment now may not be the time to sell. Cheers Gareth

[quote name='Dudgeman' timestamp='1327540591' post='1513243'] I have done a touch of research and thought that was the one. Is it best to replace like for like or is there a better alternative? [/quote] The 12AX7 is rated at 100%, and there are various alternative ratings that give lower gain so stay cleaner longer, but they may also reduce output (admittedly that's less of an issue given the way the ABM is designed): there's a good explanation of this [url="http://thetubestore.com/gainfactor.html"]here[/url]. Likewise, the "Valve Drive" function in detailed the ABM manual. If you haven't seen it, it says: [left][color=#0000cd][size=3][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]This routes the signal either through a clean Solid State amplification section (control on zero) or through [/font][/font][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]a Dual Triode Tube amplification/overdrive section to add either tonal character, i.e. warmth with the [/font][/font][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]control set at 9 o’clock, a slight edge in the sound at 12 o’clock, through to an increasing degree of Tube [/font][/font][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]distortion/overdrive as the control is advanced to maximum.A Mix of these two amplification sections can [/font][/font][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]be achieved with this control. N.B.The degree of Tube distortion with this control will also depend on the [/font][/font][font="GillSans"][font="GillSans"]setting of the INPUT control.[/font][/font][/size][/color][/left] So, whether to change the valve gain rating depends on whether you want to change the character of the tone you get with it. Given the fact that you can blend the amount of valve you get from just a hint of warmth to some decent overdrive, if it were me I'd just go for another quality 12AX7, and as Pentode says, there are loads to choose from! You may find you change the tone by using different brands of 12AX7 alone...

[quote name='buff' timestamp='1327427921' post='1511089'] I so much wanted to love it, but the sound wasnt there for me. [/quote] Strange isn't it, but I guess it just goes to show how we all hear things in different ways. I think it's an incredibly versatile bass, far more than a Precision for example.

Hello all Resurrecting an old thread here, but I picked a JC up from Krispn before Christmas, who got it from Tredders, who had himself got it from Buff, so nothing like keeping it in the family! While I would agree these aren't the most ergonomic basses out there compared to some available these days, I have to say you get a hell of a lot of bang for your buck. My observations so far: i) The nut on this bass was poorly cut - way too high - so I reprofiled it to make it play more comfortably in first position. Much faster and effortless to play now, especially combined with a tweak of the truss rod to straighten the neck and a drop of the action at the bridge. ii) Flats are definitely the way to go! I've got La Bella 760FS on mine and they sound fantastic! iii) The pickup in this bass is a gem, and the impedance selector works really well (although the quality of the hardware on the bass is pretty meh overall...) when you combine it with the tone control. It's not a bass to turn volume and tone to 10 and just play, you really need to experiment to see what sounds good. iv) The Hipshot Supertone bridge upgrade solves neck dive totally. I'm only using a 2.5" wide strap and the bass balances perfectly. Cheers all Gareth

I'm keen on getting an original LB112 as well....

Is the truss rod as loose as it'll go? If not, loosen it (initially, no more than a 1/8 to 1/4 turn at most) and it should release the tension in the neck and remove the back bow. If it is as loose as can be adjusted, the bass needs some work

Thanks for the reply! I would take a picture but can't actually get it out of the bass! However, I think the spray with contact cleaner I gave it yesterday must have done the job, as another spray just now (using the long nozzle and firing it straight into the switch) has really done the job! Hopefully, problem sorted. Cheers Gareth

[quote name='Pentode' timestamp='1327243505' post='1508211'] If you can raise a bit more cash, I can highly recommend a used Little Bastard 30. [/quote] +1 to this.

Hi there The three-way impedance selector switch on my JC bass is not in good condition: very stiff and hard to turn. I'd therefore like to get it replaced. I've emailed Epiphone to ask them, but figured I'd seek the comments of the BC brethern too, to see if anyone knows a) what siwtch to use how to wire it! Cheers Gareth

I picked up a set of strings from Pierre. Smooth, easy transaction, and I'd be more than happy to deal with him again.

[quote name='walbassist' timestamp='1316163007' post='1375210']John's a pleasure to deal with and the wiring kits are top notch! [/quote] Just installed a second P bass wiring kit and delighted once again with the whole experience. John's the man!

I use an LB30 with the LB212 cab. I have also tried it with the LB112. The LB112 sounds great in small rooms, but the 212 moves a lot of air in a decent size venue, plus it just sounds fuller and richer. A wise move I reckon...

If you can't find anyone local I'd take the trip up the M3 and see Joe White in Ash Vale. Not cheap but very good.

I sold a P Retro to SImon. Instant payment and smooth comms all the way. Recommended!!!

[quote name='DanOwens' timestamp='1326905050' post='1503542'] They're D'Addario Helicore Hybrids but they appear to be rather high tension. So when clean I may switch them with something. I'm playing standards so any suggestions?[/quote] Hi Dan I have Innovation Silver Slaps on my BSX Allegro and think they're great. Highly recommended and not too expensive either.

If you think it's worth keeping and a prime candidate for a wiring upgrade anyway, I'd just pop it open and diagnose the issue with the J pickup: if it's the pickup itself send it back, but if it's the wiring, keep and upgrade!

Always a pleasure to deal with Grahame. Great communication and fast payment.

[quote name='mckendrick' timestamp='1326511941' post='1498346'] Wot... like [i]no WAL[/i]....? That Precison's gorgeous, by the way. [/quote] Yes, no Wals since 2009 for me, which has been a strange feeling. That said, Paul and I are working on a new bass for me, which I'll be going for in a couple of years when the wood I've earmarked is ready. Thanks for the comment on the P bass too. I assume you mean the fretless?

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1326469718' post='1497695'] fair enough. [/quote] I'll keep an eye on it though, as I am good mates with the drummer.