honza992

And finally I routed the neck taper. Using another of my uttlerly hideously ugly jigs. If you are of a weak constitution, or are a proper woodworker, look away now. The neck is narrow - 38mm at the nut with 18mm string spacing at the bridge - so I've kept it a reasonable thickness front to back, 22mm at the nut and 24mm at the 12th fret. Lots of people seem to like using graphite rods but my novice prejudice tells me not to. I feel as though they would fight the truss rod and I'd rather have the neck 1 or 2mm thicker. The flatsawn neck blank seemed to have pretty straight grain so I'm hoping for a stable neck..... If I have some time tomorrow, I'll start on the neck carve. Thanks for visiting.

The body is rapidly approaching completion. I've routed the f-hole, truss rod access rout, and control cavity. I've also done the roundover on the back. I've used a 1/2" radius, which gives a pretty big curve, but I quite like the contrast between the curvy back and the flat front (cos it will eventually have binding). There's a bit of carving that needs doing to blend the different roundover sized near the neck join and obviously masses of sanding that needs to be done. I'll take it to 150 or so and then do the binding, though that's a post for a different day. Here it is as of today.... The weight of the body at this point is just over 1.8kg, so my back-of-a-tack-cloth estimation is a final bass weight of 3.1kg. Just about right for an exhausted 47 year old first time father

Bit of a mish mash of an update today. But let's start with knobs..... Hee hee...... I make my own. It's not complicated, but again (like neck inserts) you really need a drill press. First up I glued the fretboard cutoff onto a piece of mahogany scrap from the body. I then thicknessed this blank to the final height of the knobs, 19mm or thereabouts. I then securely clamp the blank UPSIDE DOWN on the drill press. Every fibre of your being will try to persuade you to clamp it facing up. If you do, as I have done (and I think more than once), yer buggered. Anyway, clamp it down then drill a 6mm hole for the knurled part of the pot. Then [u]without moving the drill or the body[/u] take the 6mm bit out and replace it with a forstner bit, I use 14mm. Drill a few milimetres deep, enough for the hex nut that secures the pot down to the guitar. Assuming you haven't moved anything you should find the two holes are concentric. Again, without moving the drill or the body I use the mother of all plug cutters to cut our the knob itself. Mine is 1/2". Assuming all goes well you should find everthing is concentric and rotates without wobbling on the pot. I hate a wobbly knob Then to reach our knob climax It's just a matter of drilling a 2mm hole for a dot, and a 2.5mm hole for a 2mm grub screw on the side. Somewhat rashly I then decided to sand a bevel onto the top so that in dark you can feel where it's positioned. I'm not quite sure why, I'm only likely to be playing in the dark if my 50p in the electric meter runs out prematurely. I'm not sure whether I like the result or not. Also part of me wishes I had put a bit of maple veneer between the two parts of the knob, so that there was a bit of seperation between the two colours (ie between the mahogany and the ebony). To my eye they are just a bit similar. But, I've got no more ebony scrap so I shall just have to live with them. Let me know what you think. Knob update complete.

Are you sticking with the EDAG stringing you have in the mock up?

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504458884' post='3365002'] It's great to hear your daughter gets a multi-cultural experience already. [/quote] Ooooh, yes. She can already eat icecream and spaghetti like the best of them!

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1504425982' post='3364690'] My son will be three at the end of the month. Sometimes I long for the relaxing and peaceful days of the 16 month old toddler! [/quote] Ha ha ha that made me laugh. Good jo....hold on, that was a joke wasn't it? You don't mean...it get's worse??!?

If you want more relief in the neck then there are only three cheap options that I can think of. First is to fit slightly heavier strings. This will increase the pull on the neck, hopefully enough to provide the relief you want. Second, if it's a double action rod you can go beyond the neutral position to introduce some forward bend in the neck. Obviously if it's only a single action rod then this isn't an option. Third is to take it back to the shop or return it to Yamaha. Inability of a neck to be in some relief is a defect in my opinion. Alternatively if the buzzing is on the higher end of the neck (ie nearer the bridge) you can increase the string height a little. This may solve the buzzing issue.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504347196' post='3364240'] Nice choice of internal wrenching neck bolts and countersunk washers. Did you use any bonding agent with the inserts? [/quote] I did wick in some thin CA glue. Massive overkill probably. My guess is the threaded inserts are many times stronger than woodscrews. I started using them becuase my wife is Italian and we travel quite a lot back and forth, so I thought I might be taking a neck off frequently. As it turns out I now have a 16 month daughter so thoughts of doing anything in Italy other than running round after her then collapsing in exhaustion have vanished....there is nothing less relaxing than holidaying with a toddler..

While you are pondering the issue of binding, I'll bring everything up to date. Today was neck joint day. I use bolts and threaded inserts rather than the more usual woodscrews partly because I like a challenge and partly to ensure the neck joint remains true should Trump, Kim Jong Il or Jean-Claude Juncker come round for tea and I am forced to use it as a weapon for the benefit of mankind. The trick with bolts and threaded inserts is that you have to get alignment more or less spot on. It's not hard but I've only ever been able to do it successfully with a drill press - the drill press helps in keeping everying vertical. I've seen people online do it with a hand drill, but they clearly have more ability than me.... I use M5 bolts and threaded inserts. Overkill probably, M4 would probably be fine. Obviously if you are using M4, drill bit sizes will differ. The first step is to drill a 5mm hole through the body then WITHOUT moving the body or the drill do another 15mm hole which will be for the neck ferrule. I then put the body vertically in a vice, put the neck in then by hand twiddle a 5mm brad point bit so that it scratches an indentation on the neck. This indentation is the guide for where to drill the holes for the inserts in the neck. I then tape the neck to a radius block so that it sits nicely horizontal, then drill 9mm holes for the inserts to go in. I then put the inserts in by putting them onto a threaded rod and turn the drill by hand to force them into the hole. This ensures then go in vertically rather than wobbling around all over the place which is what happens if I do it by hand. And that's it! Along with making knobs, this was actually the process that has taken me the longest to work out. Starting from scratch meant I had no general woodworking knowledge to help. For example it took me several necks (and hours and hours and hours frustration) to realise that once you have the drill press and your workpiece clamped down, you can put different sized bits in and out and it will drill one hole centred on the other. It's completely obvious to me now, but not from the outset. And it's been the same with a million other things. It's been a blast! Anyway, the final fitting and I was able to do up all four bolts with my fingers. Alignment spot on.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1504250450' post='3363593'] Binding is ALWAYS lush. How about some Bird's Eye Maple binding? [/quote] Ha ha I agree! And Bird's Eye maple sounds great, but maybe not yet. From what I've read those exotic bindings are fragile and hard to bend on a iron. Up till now I've only used plastic binding which I bend with the wife's hairdryer. Though don't tell her that. You have though got me thinking.....

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1504193800' post='3363315'] The body sections are in the right place in relationship to the nut. Hmmmm....but the part of the top that meets the neck notch is, hmmmm, the top cutaway. And maybe it should have been the BOTTOM cutaway? There's no option but to order more wood and redo the neck. It has to be said, I don't often make really big boo-boos like this so I reckon I'm owed a few [/quote] Your zen calmness is admirable. I would have thrown the neck through the nearest window! I once cut out a body only to realise I had the template on upside down so the nice wood was at the back and the knots and worm holes were at the front. Would have been fine for a lefty, but, well I'm not......Numpty

Wow, now that is some fine wood. How soft is the camphor laurel? Are you going to void fill? [Edit - having read your other thread I'm guessing ebony dust?]

[size=4][font=Arial]OK, sorry I've been a bit lax in posting updates, so there's a bit to get through.....[/font] [font=Arial]First up I thicknessed the headstock using what is undoubtedly the least attractive jig ever. Every time I look at it I feel slightly grubby. It works though, so I fear utility wins over elegance:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Next up is the neck pocket. I've tried a few different methods but the one I like most I've copied completely from here:[/font] [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/article/how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-neck-pocket-template-fabrication.html"][color=#1155CC][font=Arial]http://www.bestbassg...abrication.html[/font][/color][/url] [font=Arial]This is what I ended up with:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]I put the neck on the centre line, then use two straight edges to ensure it's aligned correctly. On the ruler the two straight edges were 62.5mm apart (ie 54mm of string spacing then 4mm each side of gap), an error of 0.5mm which I'm happy with. [/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]I clamp the neck down, slide the template over the top then remove the neck. [/font][font=Arial]I then routed it to a depth of 16mm (neck thickness minus minimum height of bridge) then said a short prayer. [/font] [font=Arial]Perfect fit! Oh, yes, time for a mock up:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Ignore the knobs and bridge, they’re scrap. But it’s beginning to look more bass like. [/font] [font=Arial]Now peeps, I need your advice. I want to do binding, cos I’m funny like that. Here are your options:[/font] Option 1 - Ivoroid binding with thin black/maple line showing[/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 2. Black binding with thin black/maple line showing[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 3. Plain ivoroid binding (photo taken from an earlier build)[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 4. Plain black binding (photo taken from an earlier build). [/font][/size] [size=4][color=#000000][font=Arial]Anyone have any views or preferences? It’ll have La Bella tapewound strings which are black. I'm not sure yet what wood the bridge will be made out of. Ideally it will be the same as the fretboard - I’ve emailed the supplier but haven’t heard back as to whether they have a bridge sized blank. [/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=Arial]I would do another poll, but what with Brexit then the top wood/fretboard poll I should imagine you are all exhausted. So just comment away.....[/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=Arial]As ever, thanks for you input. [/font][/color][/size]

Google is rubbish. I'll just open a imgbb account! Thanks.

Hmmm...very strange. When I use the image shortcut button in the normal reply box the photo comes up (ie I can see it in the editor) but when I press 'Post' I get an error message saying "[color=#5A5A5A][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3][center]You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community.". [/center][/size][/font][/color] If I use the "More Reply Options" button to go to the advanced editor, then press the image shortcut button, the photo doesn't appear at all, just a text link.

Ped, I'm using google drive to host my pics. I can paste in a url which works fine, but I'm not getting a thumbnail in the text of the post as you are. Any idea why? Thanks.

Looks great! It's always good to get a project finished. Speaking of which, how did the finishing go? What did you use in the end on the body? Was it the effect you were after?

Not too much of an update today. I drilled out the top chamber with a forstner and finished with a router. [attachment=252231:IMG_20170828_093344.jpg] I then glued on a piece of 0.6mm black veneer using a hand pump & vacuum bag and epoxy. I use epoxy rather than titebond because in the past I've had issues with the body warping, I assume from the water content in the glue. With epoxy though there's no movement at all. Tomorrow I'll cut away the veneer from the top chamber then glue on the maple top, again using the vacuum bag. [attachment=252230:IMG_20170828_114742.jpg] I've put in the black veneer just to add in a bit of interest to the ivoroid binding. I'm also going to leave some of the maple top exposed from the side. So from bottom to top it will be mahogany, black stripe, maple stripe, then ivoroid binding. Or at least that's the plan at the moment. I'll do a test sample before routing the binding to make sure it doesn't look too ridiculous.

[quote name='samhay' timestamp='1503775104' post='3360873'] A No. 4 is a good size for jointing using a shooting board. [/quote] Thanks Samhay. The article that SpondonBassed pointed to also suggested that in direct contradiction to what I've always been told, size really doesn't matter. When I find some time I'll try putting together a shooting board and try my No.4. My trouble is I get impatient, trying to build rather than building up my skills which in the long term would be much, much, more useful......

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1503736077' post='3360579'] For a decent plane your best bet is to get an old one from eBay. New ones seem to have blades made out of butter unless you pay a fortune for real quality. A new cheap one is a false economy really. Unfortunately old planes are collectors items too. I was lucky enough to pick up an old Stanley jack plane that someone had spent ages reconditioning and repainting - killing its collectable value in the process It's a lovely thing to work with having sharpened the blade [/quote] Thanks Norris, I assumed that was going to be the case. It seems odd that with modern manufacturing techniques they are unable to make something better than a plane made before computers and cnc even existed. But I know this is also the case with most other woodworking tools and machinery. Given my extremely limited experience of hand planes, how big an ask is it to buy, restore, sharpen and learn to use a plane like that? Alternatively I've already got a number 4 bench plane. How good a job could that do on jointing the two body halves? Of course I still have to learn to use that one properly.....

Not too much of an update today other then side dots. Because the ebony board is quite attractive I've decided not to have lines, just side dots. However, because I can hardly play with frets, let alone fretless, I decided to have side dots at every position. To get the dots positions exactly consistent I built this jig (ok, saying 'built' is a bit of an exaggeration, and indeed calling it a 'jig', it's a bit of plastic screwed onto a bit of scrap....), which works really, really well. [attachment=252127:IMG_20170824_162716 (1).jpg] I've used cream dots for 3, 5, 7, 9 etc and white for the other 'in-between' positions. I'm not sure how successful that was, they're pretty similar. But they look kind of nice. [attachment=252126:IMG_20170825_122458 (1).jpg] That's it for today. Thanks for watching.

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1503643635' post='3359837'] When you think you've got the two halves ready for joining, hold them together and hold it up to the light. If you can see any light it's not mated well enough yet. A long ("jack" is good or "jointing" is even better) plane with a nice sharp blade is the best tool for the job to get the surfaces really flat [/quote] Thanks Norris. I use the light method for thinner things like tops, and at some point I'll put together a light box. But for bodies that are over an inch thick I've never had much luck in using the technique successfully. I've spent ages with my face squished up on the side of a body join trying to see light. Maybe a light box would help with bodies as well. Would a cheap jointing plane (a quick internet search show a Faithful one for £37) do ok, or are handplanes like so much in woodworking, cheap is a false economy? At some point I'd really like to start using more hand tools. I use a spokeshave for the neck, occasionally a chisel for this and that, and although I've got a couple of planes I never really use them. I love the idea of creating less dust though. What I'd love to do is find an evening class or something. One day..... [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1503646822' post='3359862'] I can advise you on getting full contact at the mating surfaces. PM me if you are interested. Sanding is not good for keeping surfaces flat and it might be why you are seeing the glue solidifying in a gap. [/quote] Great, thanks, I'll drop you a PM sent, but also feel free to post anything here. [quote name='rubis' timestamp='1503672319' post='3360216'] There is an Americam forum called TDPRI, about Telecasters mainly (I know, Tele is a four letter word) but I love them, they are easy-ish to build, and the the variations on a theme nearly always look cool They have a Home Build section, some set ups are more professional looking than amateur, but one bloke in particular, named Scatter Lee does some excellent builds with tools typically found in an enthusiasts workshop, and is very good at building jigs or devices as solutions to a problem, very much a "can do" or should I say "can do without" attitude, when others seem to have a machine shop in their garage His 'gater photos are a nice diversion too I have wisely spent many hours reading his numerous builds, well worth a look and very educational [url="http://www.tdpri.com/threads/completed-scatter-lees-build.467702/"]http://www.tdpri.com...s-build.467702/[/url] [/quote] I agree with you, I love the tele. The strat always looked a bit polite to me. Ok, it probably new the difference between dorian and phrygian, but I bet the tele got more girls. And yes, TDPRI is a great site. I've spent countless hours there. I can honestly say that without sites like TDPRI, Talkbass and BassChat I would never have built a bass. The internet may be destroying the high street, our ability to communicate using real words and childhood innocence, but it has also provided me with endless help, advice and encouragement. Of course whether you consider that a fair swap I shall leave to you!

Oh and while on the subject of gluing (will it never end??) I also glued together the two halves of the maple top. I used (for the first time) the tent method, thus: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwjsIp44z3k&t=29s"]https://www.youtube....jsIp44z3k&t=29s[/url] It was dead easy to do, but.....I'm not sure about the results. I've only just done it so obviously it needs to dry for a few hours, but I can already see the deadly thin black line. It looks cool: [attachment=252013:IMG_20170824_121537.jpg] Pudding, proof, though. We'll see how it is tomorow.

On the subject of gluing, the fretboard/neck glue joint came out great. No gaps and the woods look great together! No photos cos I'm a tease. The body join is good if not quite perfect. There's a couple of points where you can see a very feint black line. [attachment=252011:IMG_20170824_123241.jpg] The joint is a few mm above my finger. It's hard to see in the photo. It's pretty hard to see in real life - I keep on losing it. The body is still a few mm too thick so I'm hoping as I sand a bit deeper into the join the line will disappear completely. I'll leave it a day and see how I feel about it - I can always saw it in half again and re-joint and re-glue..... I'm assuming that the black line is caused by having a joint which isn't completely true. Anyone else get this? Any tips?

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1503565021' post='3359140'] I hear you re: creeping joints. [/quote] On this one there are no fretlines and I haven't done the side dots yet so it doesn't really matter if the fretboard shifts a bit anyway. On a fretted board though (and assuming you've already done the fret slots at the point of gluing) it's really critical to make sure there's no creep at all. Dowels and doing the clamps up slow enough to let the glue ooze out in a laid back fashion...that's my 1/10,000th of a bitcoin worth. If anyone else has got some good tips I'd love to hear them because I struggle with it every time.