KiOgon

I'm fortunate enough to have aquired 3 of the American Vintage series, which I consider to be very good replicas of the originals in terms of looks, feel, sounds & quality. They're not originals, they're not that precious, they're far from unique but they are better than any other Fenders I've had &/or tried. A big plus is that you can buy one in 'perfect condition' if that showroom shine is what you're after, not many originals like that left in the world. If I was 'rich' or came into some serious money, there's nothing I'd like more than to seek out & collect some original Fenders, just like the one in this thread.

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1337759892' post='1664891'] It might play and sound rubbish! [/quote] That'll be fine for me then

Only 8KHz works for me, none of the others do anything but on the good side the 8K sounds very high to me (61&1/4 yrs) Edit: Tried the test again with the volume higher & I think the frequencies are numbered wrong, or to put it another way the test is a load of shyte. I can hear 8, 10 but not 12, 14 to me is higher than 15, not 16, 17 clearly & a lower tone than 15, 18 OK, the 19 to me is the same as 17, 20 & 21 - 21 seems lower than 20 OK, then 22 just a bit buzzy. Then I got Kaz (female 55) to listen & she can hear pretty much the same as me, with similar comments on the levels & tones, so it's not just me but it is what's coming out of my speakers. I'll get my sons to try on the same setup when they come round. It's complete bollox - IMHO. I'm pretty sure I' hearing what my sound card & Creative speakers decide to put out, wish my tuner would pick up those high frequencies

That is seriously the best looking bass I have ever seen underpriced? Where are you ever EVER going to find another like that? If I won a million or so on the Lotto I'd buy that in a flash & play it

Looks good & I don't think the start price is at all bad if you're not expecting to pay at least that for a almost unused example 70's P-bass, what do you want? Rubber Biscuit?

Sweet it did look in need of some Lemon oil good stuff. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheerz, John

I sent the seller a text t'other day - not heard back from him [quote name='WalMan' timestamp='1337455731' post='1660447'] We shall see...could suit me for the smaller gig [/quote] Did you get it then?

What tools have you got? I'd remove the neck for best possible access, then try various screwdrivers, allen keys. torx drivers whatever fits into the damaged socket best, a straight screwdriver blade will sometimes fit across the internal hex corners enough to do the job. Failing that try a Torx, you can even attempt to get a tool in with a gentle application of hammer!. Then before trying to turn (left for loose) take the strain off the rod by applying hand pressure to the neck, then go for the best grip you can get & try, it shouldn't be that tight with no load on. Good luck, John

Next to impossible to say from here - & I've never seen inside a spector - but, have you still got the pickups connected to the pots? Is it an active circuit? If so is the battery connected/does it switch through the jack plug? A decent photo or 2 of internals might help. EDIT: After a quick google, does any of this apply to yours? "[color=#000000]The Legend Classic basses have been upgraded recently w/ better electronics, to make them an ever better piece. - - , - - - active Spector TonePump Jr. boost only active tone controls w/ EMG-SSD passive humbuckers, "[/color]

[quote name='MrFingers' timestamp='1337334725' post='1658236'] The Neck: The specs: veneer rosewood fretboard 1.75" nutwidht 7.25" radius vintage frets "chunky C" profile CTS/NOS-cap wiring Seymour Duncan Antiquity I pickup 2-piece "off centre joined" alder body My goal is to make it as vintage correct as is humanly possible (thus using the correct nailholes, paintstickmarks, ...), without making it so correct that it could be used as a fraud. Special thanks go to [url="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Peterbuilt-Basses/300518246647095"]Peter Boer[/url] for helping me get those things in the US (being a non-creditcard user is a PITA) and the aforementioned Stijn Kenens. [/quote] Not wishing to appear negative, I think this will be a very fine build & very similar to something I'd like to do myself - but: To me - from the photo's - the frets don't look snug down onto the fingerboard radius, in the centres particularly, maybe a trick of the light? Cheerz, John

Going by your given location, I imagine the going rate in Poland & UK are quite different, where do you hope to sell it? The market is slow, if you put it up on here for £350 (sounds reasonable to me) see how much interest you get. Shipping costs need to be considered if the bass is in Poland of course. Cheerz, John

[url="http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/105435287/fender-squier-precision-bass-fiesta-red.html"]http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/105435287/fender-squier-precision-bass-fiesta-red.html[/url] Same guy as the ebay seller in the OP, same decal, same serial number Just saying like in case anyone fancies a Squier or a Fender? Or not!

Happy ending = well done basschat

Fender on a Friday, Lakland at the weekend naturally

Heard the news yesterday, R.I.P. Donna, so young to go Been mashing I feel love with green onions

Missed you xX thanks for sorting it guys, here's to a 'normal' day

Just had a similar warning as I sent a PM! Sorry it went to soon for me to remember what it said Edit: What Rucks said above I believe

I believe Fender stopped using Slot Headed screws during 1953, so long before any Jazzes were even dreamt of. The standard screws would definitely be Philips Head & not Pozidrive. Those supplied with the American Vintage series I've had, for the covers are a Roundhead, similar size to standard pickguard Raised Head Countersunks, which will also do nicely. Edit: Definitely no experts around here, just a bloke who likes his screws

[color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=1] [b]eBay have at some stage changed the way it works, just found this;[/b][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=1] [b]Example[/b][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=1] [list] [*] The current bid for an item is £10.00. Neil is the high bidder, and has placed a maximum bid of £12.00 on the item. His maximum bid is kept confidential from other members. [*] Loraine views the item and places a maximum bid of £15.00. Loraine becomes the high bidder. [*] Neil’s bid is incremented to his maximum of £12.00. Loraine's bid is now £12.50. [*] We send Neil an email that he has been outbid. If he doesn’t raise his maximum bid, Loraine wins the item. [/list][/size][/font][/color] [url=""][/url] [b] The small print[/b] [color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=1] In reserve price auctions, if your maximum bid is at least the reserve price, we’ll automatically increase your bid to meet the reserve, and bidding will continue from there.[/size][/font][/color]

[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1337012683' post='1653983'] So I shouldn't be believing this?: [url="http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_7614546_remove-chrome-nickel-plating.html"]http://www.ehow.co.u...el-plating.html[/url] [/quote] I wouldn't believe any of that - if they say "use a plastic container" to hold acetone I don't think so I'm sure there are some that will BUT!