KiOgon

[quote name='deanbean502' post='1227854' date='May 11 2011, 06:35 PM']Right then been doing some playing around with my Ashdown little bastard recently and I have always used the send and return to rig up my effects. Last night i tried it a different way and plugged my bass straight through my effects into my amp and it sounds awesome compared to the send and return jacks. What i am asking is this a safe way to continue using my pedals or is it going to harm my little bastard?[/quote] FX in line with bass won't be a problem but I can't see why/how the send & return make any difference to your sound? I've used both ways with mine & never noticed any difference

[quote name='Evil Undead' post='1225486' date='May 9 2011, 07:55 PM']As it says on the tin [/quote] Yep - you get a brand new bass Buying from a shop that's had it on display for 6 months & has been played by 473 people doesn't count as new

[quote name='Ross' post='1224934' date='May 9 2011, 11:44 AM'][url="http://www.guitarpartsworldwide.com/Jazz+Bass+Electronic+Upgrade+Kit++PWd6TTBBRE14b0RkalZIWnZKSGM"]Something like this[/url] should do the job nicely. I've got the same bass as you, my wiring is pretty awful (though i'm sure the previous owner rewired it) so I'm sticking one of them in, but ditching the orange drop in place of a paper in oil capacitor for a vintage vibe.[/quote] I don't think the OPs knobs will fit on the solid shaft pots in the kit you have recommended

[quote name='Geek99' post='1224908' date='May 9 2011, 11:20 AM']I have a CIJ 62 reissue jazz bass - with black plastic knobs (no grub screws). Can someone please advise what kind of wiring kit I need to redo the wiring ? poly, ceramic, cts, alpha etc - all seem to be available on ebay thanks[/quote] ` `Speak to me nicely or even a PM will do I can custom build one for you & it won't costapacket. Cheerz, John

[quote name='munkonthehill' post='1222611' date='May 6 2011, 09:16 PM'][url="http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/fender-precision-bass/79052230"]http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/fender-p...n-bass/79052230[/url] by looking at this, can anyone confirm its a 80's P-bass??[/quote] No, can't confirm anything - but it ain't a standard P bass, not with a J pup as well & 22 Frets? Don't know about the pickguard either Sorry can't be more help from those pics

Yep flats on all mine, black nylon flats, shiny steel flats & most recently flats cleaned/polished with Fast Fret GHS are my favourite flats so I thought I'd try their *famous* Fast Frets. I've only tried it on 1 bass so far, early days but it feels good greased lightning

That's uberkool dood had a play on the virtual & found my way round it so easily, reckon could knock out some toons with that US $4k + extras though! Love the A0 bottom & the 9 bass strings are flatwound as standard. On my wish list

With a Black p/g - Rosewood as dark as you like, or Ebony would be sweet.

Ashdown Little Bastard, don't think I'll ever need a different amp

[quote name='kerley' post='1214557' date='Apr 29 2011, 08:50 AM']It is only a bridge, don't get too sentimental! Filing it is an easy option and they are arguably supposed to be filed anyway. Other options would be; - Routing the body to make the bridge sit lower (bit drastic) - Shimming the neck to make the neck higher (which is what I think I tried and had no ill effects and is reversable)[/quote] I'm not getting senti or mental but - Yes I know some Badass brides have 'non filed' saddles & that degree of filing is not in question. It might only be a bridge but it seems that some people pay a lot of money for them & if the saddles are filed out too deep IMV I'd call it bu55ered! I imagined the depth of filing that might be required & the time/effort to do so, to remedy a problem (high action) that has a far simpler resolution. As the wiki link has been posted already that explains the reccomended course of action I find it strange that some people are still coming up with IMO more difficult alternatives.

[quote name='kerley' post='1214263' date='Apr 28 2011, 09:56 PM']One thing to do is file some slots as that will lower the strings but not sure how deep you would want to file them. Might be easier to eBay the Badass as they always sell well![/quote] Bl00dy L - some people just like to do things the hard way I s'pose! Or how to bu55er up a Badass

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1213737' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:29 PM']Had this with a gotoh, the bridge didn't go low enough for a decent action, answer is to go back to the BBOT (bent bit of tin, quaint euphemism for old style fender bridges) or route a hole to drop the BA into.[/quote] No no - the neck needs a shim under the heel - there's a sticky somewhere I think. Cheerz, John Edit: Have you read this? - [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:tech:badass_bridges"]http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:tech:badass_bridges[/url]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213605' date='Apr 28 2011, 10:34 AM']Well, I've bought a body off ebay, it's got all the routing and that done but no holes. So my question is, how do I decide where to put the bridge so the strings will line up properly with the pickups (fender bridge) and also, best way to mark out the neck holes and ensure that it's a straight join? Borrowing a hand drill from a mate, I don't have the luxury of a drill press. Any way to ensure the holes will be straight?[/quote] Not wishing to offend but - if you're asking questions like that perhaps in the long run it would be better to get someone with a bit more experience to do the tricky bits. I'd rather see you with a finished job you're pleased with than risk a lot of expensive parts not put together right. Cheerz, John - no offence intended.

[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='1212783' date='Apr 27 2011, 04:14 PM']I swapped the nut for a Tusq-nut,[/quote] That may not help Have you checked string height at the nut? Or to put it another way is the nut slotted 'right' for your neck & strings? EZ test - hold down each string 1 at a time at 2nd fret - then tap each string onto 1st fret, there should be only a very small clearance = a fag paper between the 1st fret & string. If strings are too high at the nut you'll be struggling down the rest of the neck. Cheerz, John

[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='1212675' date='Apr 27 2011, 02:29 PM']Hey guys, wondered if anyone may be able to offer a bit of help... I fitted a Leo Quan II Badass bridge to my MIM PBass about a year ago, truth be told, its not been right since. I just use this bass as a backup, so it hasn't been a massive issue, but it plays pants. Im no whizz with setups etc and have had a tech do them all in the past, but money constrains mean Im going to have to learn! lol. One thing I have noticed is that it says here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0[/url] that it is a simple straight swap for the new bridge (which it was in terms of screwing it in) and the string length bridge saddle to nut is the same, but the total length of the bridge is longer, so the string end-to-end is now approx 1.5cm longer - which is whats caused my neck to bow I suppose?? Also, I didnt bother to file any grooves into the bridge saddles, though they have made a bit of a groove on their own now as they've been on a while. Question is really, when it comes to adjusting the truss-rod to see if I can get the action down a bit (it's terrible at the top to the neck), does anyone know what sort of measurements I should be looking at around the 12th? The guitarist in my band does his guitars and suggested fr a guitar he usually just holds the 6th and 1st srings down (separately) at the first and the highest fret and there should be a tiny gap around the 8th.. Has anyone else had the same issue and can offer any pearls of wisdom? Just to make my thread more pretty, Ill give you a piccy too.... ;-) [attachment=78494:PIC_0618.JPG] Thanks all, Andy[/quote] Hey Andy, 1st off - I have a MiM P-bass with Badass || & it's no trouble, plays as good as gold! I don't follow why you think it would have caused the neck to bow? Anyway yes you need to adjust the truss rod to get the neck right before you can sort the action via the bridge saddles. I use a 2' (600mm) steel rule on edge along the frets to measure the gap at (usualy) the 8th fret, which I like to have about .015" or a business card thickness. .010" minimum I'd say. As your guitarist has done, holding strings down at first & last frets gives the same "straight line" but the steel rule is stiffer! When your neck is right, then you can set the intonation & play with the height of strings at the bridge. EZ Cheerz, John EDIT: 'kin L you lot are quick! Matt's measurements posted above are probably spot on!

[quote name='goblin' post='1212563' date='Apr 27 2011, 01:12 PM'] First thought when I got the cab "right, W is going" but never really got round to it. Glad I did it though, looks miles better. Only cost me a fiver for the spray paint [/quote] Silly question maybe - but couldn't you have just turned the grille around? I doubt it had a W both sides

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1204451' date='Apr 19 2011, 09:08 AM']I`m not overkeen on fake relicing, but these basses play so nice, and feel so comfortable, if I were looking for another Precision, this is probably/scrub that, undoubtably where my money would go. Aside from a Fender Custom Shop Pino Palladino Precision, the RW Precision I played was easily the most comfortable bass I`ve ever played.[/quote] I have to agree 100%, tried both above in GAK & just exactly as you say. I was interested in the '62AV but the RW is so 'ready to go' & feels so right. The Pino is just one step too far IMO with all the rust going on, don't like that.

Excuse the dust! Here's some Fender 9050s on a MIM P-bass with Badass||, so LaBella's?? [attachment=77890:18042011598.jpg][attachment=77889:18042011599.jpg] Edit: With intonation set to within a midge's m*nge

[quote name='Beedster' post='1204030' date='Apr 18 2011, 07:51 PM']LOL, no worries John, it was already on its way, but thanks anyway PS, when I strung a DT E string through a bridge it didn't end nicely, you sure yours is OK?[/quote] Yeah - luvly jubly, just snapped a couple of pix:

[quote name='Beedster' post='1203973' date='Apr 18 2011, 07:20 PM']Well, I've a Badass on it's way so I'm going to see what difference it makes, and if it does the job, I'll start looking at ways in which the original brinde could also do the same job. I'll keep y'all posted Cheers C[/quote] Oh dear! Wish I'd answered before i went to feed the cat Looking at my Frank Bello - La Bella 1954s - strung through body & over a Badass |||, the E saddle is all the way back squeezing the spring pretty tight to get close to the mark. So I'm not so sure a Badass || or ||| will help you much Cheerz, John

I can see a occasional genuine requirement - if you had a 63 or even 64 Jazz bass that had a nasty fall or perhaps you left it on the ground behind your car!!!!!!!!!! Where would you find a suitable replacement neck? I don't think Fender would be much help

It worries me yes, not necessarily crap, it may truly be of great quality but the fact that he advertises it as a 64 neck & it clearly has Jan 63 stamped on it