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[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='1212675' date='Apr 27 2011, 02:29 PM']Hey guys, wondered if anyone may be able to offer a bit of help... I fitted a Leo Quan II Badass bridge to my MIM PBass about a year ago, truth be told, its not been right since. I just use this bass as a backup, so it hasn't been a massive issue, but it plays pants. Im no whizz with setups etc and have had a tech do them all in the past, but money constrains mean Im going to have to learn! lol. One thing I have noticed is that it says here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193&st=0[/url] that it is a simple straight swap for the new bridge (which it was in terms of screwing it in) and the string length bridge saddle to nut is the same, but the total length of the bridge is longer, so the string end-to-end is now approx 1.5cm longer - which is whats caused my neck to bow I suppose?? Also, I didnt bother to file any grooves into the bridge saddles, though they have made a bit of a groove on their own now as they've been on a while. Question is really, when it comes to adjusting the truss-rod to see if I can get the action down a bit (it's terrible at the top to the neck), does anyone know what sort of measurements I should be looking at around the 12th? The guitarist in my band does his guitars and suggested fr a guitar he usually just holds the 6th and 1st srings down (separately) at the first and the highest fret and there should be a tiny gap around the 8th.. Has anyone else had the same issue and can offer any pearls of wisdom? Just to make my thread more pretty, Ill give you a piccy too.... ;-) [attachment=78494:PIC_0618.JPG] Thanks all, Andy[/quote] Hey Andy, 1st off - I have a MiM P-bass with Badass || & it's no trouble, plays as good as gold! I don't follow why you think it would have caused the neck to bow? Anyway yes you need to adjust the truss rod to get the neck right before you can sort the action via the bridge saddles. I use a 2' (600mm) steel rule on edge along the frets to measure the gap at (usualy) the 8th fret, which I like to have about .015" or a business card thickness. .010" minimum I'd say. As your guitarist has done, holding strings down at first & last frets gives the same "straight line" but the steel rule is stiffer! When your neck is right, then you can set the intonation & play with the height of strings at the bridge. EZ Cheerz, John EDIT: 'kin L you lot are quick! Matt's measurements posted above are probably spot on!

[quote name='goblin' post='1212563' date='Apr 27 2011, 01:12 PM'] First thought when I got the cab "right, W is going" but never really got round to it. Glad I did it though, looks miles better. Only cost me a fiver for the spray paint [/quote] Silly question maybe - but couldn't you have just turned the grille around? I doubt it had a W both sides

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1204451' date='Apr 19 2011, 09:08 AM']I`m not overkeen on fake relicing, but these basses play so nice, and feel so comfortable, if I were looking for another Precision, this is probably/scrub that, undoubtably where my money would go. Aside from a Fender Custom Shop Pino Palladino Precision, the RW Precision I played was easily the most comfortable bass I`ve ever played.[/quote] I have to agree 100%, tried both above in GAK & just exactly as you say. I was interested in the '62AV but the RW is so 'ready to go' & feels so right. The Pino is just one step too far IMO with all the rust going on, don't like that.

Excuse the dust! Here's some Fender 9050s on a MIM P-bass with Badass||, so LaBella's?? [attachment=77890:18042011598.jpg][attachment=77889:18042011599.jpg] Edit: With intonation set to within a midge's m*nge

[quote name='Beedster' post='1204030' date='Apr 18 2011, 07:51 PM']LOL, no worries John, it was already on its way, but thanks anyway PS, when I strung a DT E string through a bridge it didn't end nicely, you sure yours is OK?[/quote] Yeah - luvly jubly, just snapped a couple of pix:

[quote name='Beedster' post='1203973' date='Apr 18 2011, 07:20 PM']Well, I've a Badass on it's way so I'm going to see what difference it makes, and if it does the job, I'll start looking at ways in which the original brinde could also do the same job. I'll keep y'all posted Cheers C[/quote] Oh dear! Wish I'd answered before i went to feed the cat Looking at my Frank Bello - La Bella 1954s - strung through body & over a Badass |||, the E saddle is all the way back squeezing the spring pretty tight to get close to the mark. So I'm not so sure a Badass || or ||| will help you much Cheerz, John

I can see a occasional genuine requirement - if you had a 63 or even 64 Jazz bass that had a nasty fall or perhaps you left it on the ground behind your car!!!!!!!!!! Where would you find a suitable replacement neck? I don't think Fender would be much help

It worries me yes, not necessarily crap, it may truly be of great quality but the fact that he advertises it as a 64 neck & it clearly has Jan 63 stamped on it

[quote name='aceuggy' post='1202059' date='Apr 16 2011, 07:27 PM']Bought a new Mighty Mite neck for my Fender P project. It's a lovely neck, but it's slightly too wide to fit into the neck pocket, so what's the best way to get it to fit? Sand the neck, chisel out the pocket? Is it a job I could tackle, with no experience, or should I get a luthier to do the work. What do you reckon?[/quote] MM necks are supposed to be compatible with Fender bodies - if it's not a Fender body then I would enlarge the pocket & leave the neck as is. If it is a Fender body? Up to you, which has more resale value, a standard MM neck or the body?

Well done Dood, cool to get that!

Another Roland Micro Cube RX user Not had it long bought from sales on here for £1ton, still getting used to the Efx & Rythm guide. Amp modeling gives some variety, I'd say very capable for a small box. Bought for exactly the same reason as OP - something to put out the way in the living room so it's easy to play along with TV or whatever, + it works on batteries! So out in the garden or in the back of the car, could even bring a new dimension to those 'meeting in a car park' sales/exchanges - test on site - wherever! Cheerz, John

[quote name='yorks5stringer' post='1189855' date='Apr 5 2011, 10:49 PM']Anyone else see Later tonight? There was this band on who seemed to go on and on playing a despised type of music that no-one really understood. yep, step forward "Beady Eye"!![/quote] Music? It was just a muffled mess Galagher lost it years ago

GHS Brite Flats, do exactly what it says on the can Just taken a set off my '57 P - only because I wanted to go back to the full flats sound & feel.

Howdo & welcome, They tell me Dubai's changed a bit since I worked out there in the '80s Cheerz, John

[quote name='dumelow' post='1185759' date='Apr 2 2011, 01:23 PM']Hey guys, Ive been trawling the net and im struggling to make sure of what i need to buy. I have a 2003 model Ibanez Soundgear 700 bass. Its not the same as the current model, its a four string with P/J pickups. The jack has become loose, no cable stays in for very long, and after reading a few things, this is a common problem with ibanez'. Now as far as i can tell, its a barrel jack socket, and its more of a pain to fix rather than just buy a replacement. I cant get any photos up but here are some measurents; The length of the whole socket is 35mm. The diameter is 12mm on the inside, but the actual socket on the outside of the bass is about 20mm. I dont care about colour. Ive checked ebay and wdmusic and couldnt find anything that said it was specifically for this bass. Any help would be appreciated, got a gig next weekend and dont want to resort to gaffa taping a lead to my bass cheers[/quote] Is it like [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Genuine-Switchcraft-USA-Flush-Fit-Cylinder-Jack-Socket-/280619328429?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item41563723ad"]This?[/url]

Tony bought a P-bass wiring set from me, great guy to deal with, super comms & instant payment, no trouble at all. A thoroughly decent chap & a pleasure doing business with Cheerz, John

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1184994' date='Apr 1 2011, 05:05 PM']1954 Oldies are indeed the same strings as 0760M guage 52 to 110.[/quote] Yes thanks Howard , that's what it says on the packet! But are they the same as Jamersons?

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1184812' date='Apr 1 2011, 02:47 PM']Red silks for the 760FLs and blue for the Jamersons.[/quote] Are the Jamersons the same as '1954 Oldie Original' Deep Talkin' Bass? Mine are Blue Silks, 52,73,95,110, 0760M. Cheerz, John EDIT: @Chris - I can't see any silk at the ball ends on mine but they're strung through body on a badass, but looking down the holes = nada