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KiOgon

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by KiOgon

  1. Look at the pots - should be a date code on them which will narrow it down
  2. I know these DiMarzios were bought used, not saying they are faulty but - try some other pick ups & see, If that fails you could ask DiMarzio for advice. The wiring on the control plate you have is correct & compares to the circuits shown for Jazz bass by many manufacturers, typically DiMarzio, Seymour Duncan & Fender, using Audio Log taper CTS Premium pots. The connector blocks are a straightforward & simple way to connect the pick up wires without soldering. I have already offered to look at the bass, but do try some other pick ups first.
  3. It's over 4 years since I had contact with Terry when I bought his Skjold, a couple of weeks back he got in touch for a P-bass wiring kit, then another! Great pleasure to deal with, spot on comms & instant payment, everything that makes dealing on basschat so good . Cheerz, John
  4. Have you removed the pots then fitted the foil, so the pot's bodies are in contact with the foil & is there a earth lead between the pot bodies connected to the centre of jack socket?
  5. There's one item I want from StewMac at the moment, it's $11.95 with $12.95 shipping
  6. TBH I would have a different bass for 'digging in' my normal set ups are as low as I like because I normally play with a very light touch. I wouldn't compromise my choice of action just for the sake of digging in - I'd have another bass set up for it. Cheerz, John Edit: In other words - I couldn't/you can't have 1 bass set up for all styles of playing, another excellent reason for more basses
  7. As Rick says, stupid schoolboy error with the date!
  8. [quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1390589547' post='2347391'] I never find that a problem. Or, at least, no more problem than moving from upright to bass guitar or from 1.75" P nut to 1.5" J nut. A few minutes to get the muscle memory lined up usually does the trick. Or think of it as a 34" scale tuned down a full tone but with a capo at fret two - that's a 30.33" scale. [/quote] [quote name='eddiehoffmann' timestamp='1390589768' post='2347396'] I din't have any problems adapting and I never owned a short scale bass in more than 20 years playing. [/quote] Thanks - you're not helping my gas I keep looking at them
  9. I'm getting bad gas for one of the Coronados or maybe a Starcaster - but I really don't know how I'd get on with the short scale. I'm happy with whatever nut width but have doubts about getting to grips with the scale length
  10. I made a couple of Jazz bass wiring kits for Gareth, great guy to deal with, super comms & instant payment, no hesitation in recommending him highly. Cheerz, John
  11. No! You don't want them cluttering up your space hand them over to me straight away & we'll say no more about them What a lovely couple Enjoy
  12. I thought the 'road worn' 50's P-bass series were Mexican with truss rod adjuster at the nut. What does the back of the head have printed on it & what's that under the Fender logo? It looks like a USA style pickguard too with a little cut out by the truss rod. It's easy to get replacement saddles & screws for the bridge, spending out for a complete new lot seems a waste & TBH there's nothing wrong with the good old BBOT There's probably nothing wrong with the pick ups either but I expect an upgrade wiring kit would help bring out that P-tone Edit: Thanks Ted
  13. Dan upgraded his Jazz with a Stacked knob control plate & shielding kit from me, he's a pleasure to deal with, spot on comms & instant payment - even sent me a picture of the finished job - it's looking fabulous! Be assured Dan's a great guy to deal with. Cheerz, John
  14. WoW! Lucky I'm not 68 next birthday
  15. I've got some - but it's all in the detail
  16. Google maps? Every time I look up a postcode - wherever in the UK, the sun's shining, blue sky & not a hint of rain or snow
  17. [quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1389863339' post='2338696'] Look forward to seeing it [/quote]+ 1
  18. Lovely come to think - I had one like that & sold it here a year or 2 ago Cheerz, John
  19. PM'd
  20. Yep! Although I haven't managed to get to any bashes yet, I have made several meets at motorway services, stations etc. & quite a few have made the journey down South to mine. Every one has been a pleasure to meet, their partners too. I look forward to meeting many more in the not so distant future. Cheers, John
  21. I don't like any shop that has no 'real world' contact name, location, address or even telephone number shown on their website. Not for me.
  22. I made a P-bass wiring kit for Paul, great communication & instant payment, perfect gent to deal with. Cheerz, John
  23. A lovely old Jazz with mojo a plenty Pedant hat on/ The 67 seen on the pot codes is not part of the date, in fact the only date that can be seen on the centre pot looks like 6644, 1966 week 44, the 137 indicating CTS manufactured.[list] [*]Most Fenders from 1966 to 1969 have 1966 dated CTS pots. Apparently CBS/Fender bought a large stock of pots in 1966 that lasted till 1969. [*][b]How the Source-Date Code Works.[/b] In either case, the code works the same. The first 3 digits on a pot, or the first 2, 3 or 4 digits on a speaker are the [b]source or manufacturer code[/b]. The [b]remaining 3 or 4 digits are the date code[/b]. In 3 digit dates code, the 1st digit is the last digit of the year. On 4 digits date codes, the 1st and 2nd digits are the last two digits of the year. In either case, the remaining 2 digits are the week of manufacture (01 to 52). With this in mind, remember if the last two digits of the source-date code are greater than 52, you're [b]not[/b] looking at the source-date code! [/list] Cheerz, John
  24. Another job for Mike, 2nd verse same as the first no problems - a right gent to deal with Cheerz, John
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