KiOgon

Well - after a few days of normality the notifications seem to have done a runner again is it only me?

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1383934083' post='2271071'] And here it is. Have changed the knobs and fitted Schaller strap lock pins, otherwise stock, and staying that way. [attachment=147960:DSCF1652.JPG] [attachment=147961:DSCF1655.JPG] I is liking it a lot! [/quote]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkEovtbG06o

Yep easy job

PM coming your way Edit: Photo's of the wreck might help

Looks like a Boxer but can't make out the number after the 'Boxer', I think they range from 15 -30 - 65 watt with commensurate speaker size. If it's a 65, (IIRC with a 15" speaker), they're not bad for practise, low level rehearsals, maybe even small pub gigs, I'd say about £65 - £75. If it's a 30 W / 12" - OK for practise with a decent TE sound, £40ish, the 15 W / 8", £20ish, OK for a beginner. The guitar as already said would probably be £50 - £75 if it's good. Together I'd say £150 max, if the 65 W, that's not really 'mates rates' if you know what I mean IMHO Cheerz, John

Here's a twist - picked up from the Greco Birds for sale thread; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYoezMi4TVs

Paul got in touch for a upgrade P-bass wiring kit, super communications, instant payment, a real pleasure to deal with. Cheerz, John

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1383640053' post='2266778'] This is the 1963 Selmer Catalogue: [url="http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/h4ppyjack/library/Other%20music%20related/Selmer%20Catalogue%201963"]http://s1128.photobu...atalogue%201963[/url] [/quote]1963 IIRC - I got 7/-6 for my paper round, 5 days a week about 6:30 - 7:30 AM & 10/- for Saturday morning butchers shop delivery, 8:00 - 12:00. Loved every minute saving up for bits to build my first bass

[quote name='Lowender' timestamp='1383579715' post='2266116'] Why the anger? [/quote]No anger intended - didn't I use enough smilies? Peace & Love, flower power, pass the pipe

Instead of looking at your piggy bank & shaking it about - you might have got a gig, formed a band, played to millions, had a rock & roll life style for 50 years, got old & grumpy & still have your old faithful P-bass to play - when the arthritis ain't too bad You can stick your piggy bank where the sun don't shine a P-bass won't fit

There's some good pictures on Sweetwater's page [url="http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PBass63RFSBL"]http://www.sweetwate...il/PBass63RFSBL[/url] at £1787 here, as it's a new model - $1999 stateside doesn't make it worth importing Edit: I haven't seen the AV series serial numbers like that before, is it a new thing? Looks like they're starting with the year - V1316161 I assume

Now I've got serious GAS - thanks for that I've seen the 2013 American Vintage 'faded sonic blue' 63 P & very very nice they are too Now you mention it Kaz has told me she thinks the blue ones are 'pretty' - I'll have to work on that

Another 'Killer' P-bass kit for Tom, as always he's a pleasure to deal with, great friendly & polite communication, instant payment - a perfect gentleman Cheerz, John

Sad loss, R.I.P. Bill

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1383464005' post='2264626'] - - They're a music shop 'standard' and are easy to get hold of without having to keep a stock of spares that I can't afford to do. That repeatability is key to me as I don't want to spend time adjusting things after a string change. [/quote] 2 Excellent reasons & very valid If I change brand/guage/type of strings on any bass, to me it will need a full set up. I don't like any roundwounds so for me the chances of ever buying a set of Flats in any shop near me are ZERO. All my strings I get online at the best price I can find at the time, which is only usually if I get a new bass 'cos flats last 'forever' GHS Precision Flatwound 55-105 on P-bass, particularly the 1.75" nut width - I think they are the best sounding, best feeling & balanced right for a big old P neck. I also use Status Hotwire Flats 45-105 on P-bass with 1.625" nut, they're best VFM flats I've tried. TI Jazz Flats 43-100 on Jazz bass, fretted & fretless, for me the best feeling strings in the world! Smooth & soft with a tone that's perfect for a Jazz, IMO. I usually have 1 bass at least fitted with GHS Black Nylon Tapewounds 50-106, soft & velvet tones, also frets & fretless.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1383471290' post='2264678'] But can you actually see the fretlines while playing? All I can see is the fret-ends, so I actually prefer playing an unlined with fret-end markers. [/quote]I'm with Jack on this, my favourite fretless has black fill across the board except the last few mm, or the 'top edge' which is white http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/Fender%2060s%20Classic%20Jazz%20Bass/20130524_075825_zpsd8820fbf.jpg

Mel ordered a kit - with a few concerns about fitting it - I reckon it must have taken 1/2 an hour great comms, instant payment & a pleasure to deal with Cheerz, John

Yes ideal - you can get wider tape or even sheets - less joins 1m would do a P bass I reckon.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Squiers yet have you seen the holes in some of them only joking Squier owners

This was the answer from Strings Direct, who sell the Fender bodies, http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/c/948/bodies-necks/bodies/jazz-bass-bodies/ [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2]"Hi John,[/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2] From our understanding the hole is used for a jig in the painting process for all Mexican bodies as a way to suspend the body. It is only on Mexican bodies and is always located in a place that would be under the pick guard. In the American factory they use a different painting process therefore not needing the hole.[/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2] [/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2]Hope this helps[/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Times New Roman"][size="3"][size=3] [/size][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2]Thanks[/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2] [/size][/font][/size][/font] [font="Arial"][size="2"][font=Arial][size=2]Emile"[/size][/font][/size][/font]

Yes it's a good evening on BBC4, a Pink Floyd miscellany 67 - 05 on now

[quote name='ped' timestamp='1383137016' post='2260586'] Also edited thread title, sorry about that [/quote]All that power - - -

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1382993525' post='2258973'] Surely the answer to "I already have 4 Jazz Basses so..." is: I need to buy 4 Precisions. [/quote]Haha - I did it the other way round

Not working here still & BTW it wasn't me that put 'Fixed!' in the thread title PED

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1382977926' post='2258691'] Very good video. Makes it simple when you have the right tools [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cI9Y9MsmnEc[/media] [/quote]It's a good video - but personally I take a much more careful approach & make sure I don't touch the fretboard, frets, tuner post or string with the file I wouldn't let the file 'rock' so much either, It's best to make sure the bottom of the slot is a gentle slope - down to the tuner. Perhaps he's rushing it a bit for the video I'd say .022" or .55mm is still a big gap, I aim for almost 1/2 that but that's my personal settings - I'm a gentle plucker When the bass is in playing position, I test with a business card (.012 - .015") between the string & 1st fret, but don't go too low. As stated, to get a low - easy to play action - right along the neck, you need to look at the whole, truss rod, bridge saddle height, possibly shimming the neck & intonation. Then don't forget your pick up height may need adjusting.