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KiOgon

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by KiOgon

  1. Welcome to the machine Storky - I've sent you a PM
  2. Another truly great gone R.I.P. JJ
  3. Probably legit but the very mention of moisture + as Gary says temp & humidity could mean more than a few problems. If it's been stored 30 years with only a E string on, in those conditions I'd be pretty certain of the neck being warped, maybe badly - from his description it seems the body would need a strip& refin, + I expect the electrics would need replacing, all in all, probably a expensive restoration & not for the faint hearted! Yeah - go & have a look - then let us know Edit: Serial checks out 77-78 http://guitardaterproject.org/fender.aspx
  4. You can pick up a Roland Micro Bass for around £100 on here or other auction site etc. I sold mine a while ago for that. I didn't find it much good for passive bass & only 'reasonable' with active, no idea why 'cos the outputs of my passives are just as high it seems on other amps? The Roland 0nly takes 6 AA batteries, even high capacity NiMh rechargeable cells ain't going to give you long - not if you're going to try keeping up with a guitar through a 10 Watt. I enquired re running off a 12V car battery but all I got was - "that would invalidate any warranty" - even with a voltage dropper. The PJB is what you really need, I'd suggest saving for one, maybe next year
  5. [quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1374573869' post='2150205'] - - - - just some good old fashioned rock. Nothing complicated, just some good energy and some good fun. [/quote] Oh yes - does exactly what it says on the tin keep it coming
  6. Hey Bert - give Ashdown a call or email, if you're lucky Dave Green will most likely answer you & there ain't a lot he don't know about such things http://ashdownmusic.com/support/technical/
  7. [quote name='dodgnofski' timestamp='1374509906' post='2149526'] Hi again chaps here is a pic of said hootenanny button position - does it look cosha to you?? thank you [/quote]Looks Jap to me so could be, bh2's picture is more like 'normal' USA - IMO IME etc.etc.
  8. Mine's crap, waste of money but it's neat
  9. Welcome to the Saga scene Haha Very best wishes, John
  10. Always a pleasure - Tony's a great guy to deal with, deal with confidence Cheerz, John
  11. I guess I must be doing something right Cheerz guys
  12. Excellent transaction with & my pleasure to start a feedback thread for another newbie & say welcome to Simon. Quote from my reply to feedback received: "Simon's initial enquiry came in at 11:48 yesterday, at 12:23 I replied with choices & prices, by 13:04 decisicions were made, 13:09 payment was sent. By 13:53 I had acknowledged his order & payment, address details requested, details provided by 14:39. Kit made to order, tested & packed - taken to Post office, 1st class signed for - then confirmation of despatch with tracking number PM'd at 17:40. This morning at 11:30 PM received to say kit had arrived, was fitted to bass & sounding good - another happy customer 11:35 Feedback ^above^ left." Thank you Simon for a fantastically quick deal, great communication, instant payment - a real pleasure to do a deal with you. I highly recommend this new basschatter to the fold. Cheerz, John
  13. I am not a time lord Simon's initial enquiry came in at 11:48 yesterday, at 12:23 I replied with choices & prices, by 13:04 decisicions were made, 13:09 payment was sent. By 13:53 I had acknowledged his order & payment, address details requested, details provided by 14:39. Kit made to order, tested & packed - taken to Post office, 1st class signed for - then confirmation of despatch with tracking number PM'd at 17:40. This morning at 11:30 PM received to say kit had arrived, was fitted to bass & sounding good - another happy customer 11:35 Feedback ^above^ left. So just a few minutes less than 24 hours to completed transaction, just the way I like to do deals which reminds me - I haven't started a feedback thread for Simon yet on my way now Cheerz, John
  14. [quote name='njr911' timestamp='1373533462' post='2138621'] Going to try the Status on my P. What length for a bridge loading P ? [/quote] Long Scale http://www.status-graphite.com/status/frames/stringsinfo.html
  15. Best ever for a P-bass IMO IME etc.etc. GHS PrecisionFlats, can be got stateside for reasonable money - close second & excellent VFM are Status Hot Wires, about £20 delivered, they feel good, sound good & suit a P superbly. IMPO TI Jazz Flats are great on a Jazz & possibly my favourite strings in the world, but for me they don't suit a P, that's a personal thing I know
  16. Google tells me it's 220 miles from here - oh & my passport's expired have a great gig in the sky Debs
  17. Nuno, the upgrades have certainly been done - as you said - by someone with limited experience, for example I don't know why anybody would stick cheap aluminium foil shielding to the underside of a perfectly good chrome plated piece of solid steel no benefit to be had there Also you mention the knobs are high up from the bell plate, that is because the CTS pots have a mounting thread 10mm overall length & if you don't have a extra backing nut between the pot & the plate, which is probably only 1.75 or 2mm thick, too much excess thread sticks through, leaving a unsightly gap. I just checked Airmail to Portugal, it's not much, I could happily send you some bits to help you - can you do soldering? At least enough to change the cap (capacitor)? A normal poly drop 0.047uF cap is less than 5mm thick & a few nuts & washers for the pots don't amount to much. BTW the Jack socket fitted is a cheap Alpha type or similar, maybe the original, not the top quality Switchcraft, so in the long term that could prove to be a weak point. At least if you change the cap to the correct value you will get an improved range on the tone control. With that & careful adjustment of the pick up height, I think you'll have a perfectly workable passive bass . If you want to go to an active system like a John East you will egt a much wider range of control/tones, but do you need that? Cheerz, John
  18. The pots & wiring look OK - but; "then there's this green thing, printed on it's side : K 42Y - 2, 160V, 0,0047uF +/- 10%" you've either got an extra zero in there or it's the wrong value cap, typical Jazz bass cap should be .047uF. Does the tone control seem to work, or not much difference? Someone has definitely upgraded the pots to good quality & right value/type CTS, 250K A = Audio Log, 0626 = made in 2006 week 26. The Russian cap was probably sold as an expensive 'upgrade' from ebay or similar, so could well be the wrong value. Cheerz, John
  19. I made a wiring kit for Mike's renovation job, perfect guy to deal with, great comms, instant payment & a pleasure to do a deal with Cheerz, John
  20. I've had a plate from this guy on ebay & it fitted perfect on a MIM, pretty good quality & price - recommended http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRECISION-BASS-SCRATCH-PLATE-Pick-Guard-USA-Mex-P-Bass-fit-in-9-Colours-/190860480321?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item2c702bcf41
  21. 'Vintage Frets' every time for me, makes a huge difference to the feel of a neck, I can't see the need for anything bigger. I'm pretty sure the bigger they are the easier for machines to fit with less attention by hand to finish, so cheaper production. Jumbo = big speed bumps, IMO there's no way a neck with Jumbo Frets can be described as - fast & I reckon the smaller the frets the lighter the touch needed. Also easier to get a fast low action IME & the less the string bends over the fret the better the intonation. Proper frets are measured in good old fashioned Imperial Inches too, none of your modern foreign metric mm $h1t
  22. Are you sure it's not a Stingray
  23. Your cat looks like & does like mine & why not? They're in charge after all
  24. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1372572013' post='2127222'] I've been searching online for a checker and can't find one. Rich, can you please post the link? The Warwick checker is great, it gives you a full description of the bass. All I've found from Fender is the first few letters telling you the factory and the next number tells you the year. [/quote] Here's a very useful site for Fender serials & others; http://guitardaterproject.org/
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