KiOgon

Best ever for a P-bass IMO IME etc.etc. GHS PrecisionFlats, can be got stateside for reasonable money - close second & excellent VFM are Status Hot Wires, about £20 delivered, they feel good, sound good & suit a P superbly. IMPO TI Jazz Flats are great on a Jazz & possibly my favourite strings in the world, but for me they don't suit a P, that's a personal thing I know

Google tells me it's 220 miles from here - oh & my passport's expired have a great gig in the sky Debs

Nuno, the upgrades have certainly been done - as you said - by someone with limited experience, for example I don't know why anybody would stick cheap aluminium foil shielding to the underside of a perfectly good chrome plated piece of solid steel no benefit to be had there Also you mention the knobs are high up from the bell plate, that is because the CTS pots have a mounting thread 10mm overall length & if you don't have a extra backing nut between the pot & the plate, which is probably only 1.75 or 2mm thick, too much excess thread sticks through, leaving a unsightly gap. I just checked Airmail to Portugal, it's not much, I could happily send you some bits to help you - can you do soldering? At least enough to change the cap (capacitor)? A normal poly drop 0.047uF cap is less than 5mm thick & a few nuts & washers for the pots don't amount to much. BTW the Jack socket fitted is a cheap Alpha type or similar, maybe the original, not the top quality Switchcraft, so in the long term that could prove to be a weak point. At least if you change the cap to the correct value you will get an improved range on the tone control. With that & careful adjustment of the pick up height, I think you'll have a perfectly workable passive bass . If you want to go to an active system like a John East you will egt a much wider range of control/tones, but do you need that? Cheerz, John

The pots & wiring look OK - but; "then there's this green thing, printed on it's side : K 42Y - 2, 160V, 0,0047uF +/- 10%" you've either got an extra zero in there or it's the wrong value cap, typical Jazz bass cap should be .047uF. Does the tone control seem to work, or not much difference? Someone has definitely upgraded the pots to good quality & right value/type CTS, 250K A = Audio Log, 0626 = made in 2006 week 26. The Russian cap was probably sold as an expensive 'upgrade' from ebay or similar, so could well be the wrong value. Cheerz, John

I made a wiring kit for Mike's renovation job, perfect guy to deal with, great comms, instant payment & a pleasure to do a deal with Cheerz, John

I've had a plate from this guy on ebay & it fitted perfect on a MIM, pretty good quality & price - recommended http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRECISION-BASS-SCRATCH-PLATE-Pick-Guard-USA-Mex-P-Bass-fit-in-9-Colours-/190860480321?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item2c702bcf41

'Vintage Frets' every time for me, makes a huge difference to the feel of a neck, I can't see the need for anything bigger. I'm pretty sure the bigger they are the easier for machines to fit with less attention by hand to finish, so cheaper production. Jumbo = big speed bumps, IMO there's no way a neck with Jumbo Frets can be described as - fast & I reckon the smaller the frets the lighter the touch needed. Also easier to get a fast low action IME & the less the string bends over the fret the better the intonation. Proper frets are measured in good old fashioned Imperial Inches too, none of your modern foreign metric mm $h1t

Are you sure it's not a Stingray

Your cat looks like & does like mine & why not? They're in charge after all

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1372572013' post='2127222'] I've been searching online for a checker and can't find one. Rich, can you please post the link? The Warwick checker is great, it gives you a full description of the bass. All I've found from Fender is the first few letters telling you the factory and the next number tells you the year. [/quote] Here's a very useful site for Fender serials & others; http://guitardaterproject.org/

If your bass is not shielded a decent job of shielding will definitely cure it.

[quote name='Johngh' timestamp='1372529586' post='2126923'] Most Fenders are only good enough for turning the odd sod over I've found. [/quote] Hoi! I'll let you know when I want turning over - thank you

That's 'andy 'arry Cheerz

[quote name='craigonbass' timestamp='1371905335' post='2119379'] Hi there, I've broken the volume pot on my Stagg EUB. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a replacement? [/quote] Can you put up a photo of the pot or PM one to me, I might me able to help

You may find that you didn't leave in long enough to settle after your set up & it has continued to change since you thought you had it just right nothing to worry about, it often takes a few goes to get things exactly how you like them when you take on a new or second hand bass. Patience is a virtue

You're welcome I usually use 250 K Audio Log pots for both Tone & Volume with .01 for 'old school' or .047 for 'modern rock', occasionally use a 500 K tone pot with .047 to get the brighter end of P-bass territory. It doesn't matter at all if they're matched IMO. There is snake oil, there's many many tons of BullShit & there is also 'you get what you pay for' in terms of capacitor construction, quality & purpose - which doesn't necessarily convert to changes in tones that your average human ear can differentiate.

If you want a 0.1uF cap to try I'll send you one PM me your details. Cheerz, John

It was my pleasure to make up a couple of wiring kits for Owen, guiding him along the way to hopefully achieve what he's after. Absolute diamond to deal with, great comms, instant payment, perfect transaction. Cheerz,. John

[quote name='pobrien_ie' timestamp='1371804356' post='2118252'] Thanks John! As above, I'll try that shop. The next time I need a job done I can drop down to you in person! [/quote] Yes mate - you're very welcome & if ever you're coming down this way give me a shout!

Hi Paddy, welcome over the only shop I know in Kent is the American Guitar Centre in Tonbridge, he has a lot on ebay too, [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Musicman-Stingray-4-HH-Bass-Sunburst-/170902905306?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item27ca9b61da"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27ca9b61da[/url] Edit: Must type faster ^

[quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1371677033' post='2116964'] I've always had a hankering for a Marshall VBA400 but even second hand they command a high price. Why? Why are all valve amps so expensive? [/quote] Same reason pirates are called pirates - - -

[quote name='Minty' timestamp='1371721356' post='2117259'] Nice! If you give the gear on the back the tuner a light spritz of WD-40, it will loosen right up. If you're opposed to spraying anything near your guitar, you can just spray it onto a rag and then transfer it to the machine heads... [/quote] WD40 is only good if you take them off the wood first! Then use it to clean the parts, but please don't spray it where it can soak into the wood.

THAT IS NICE The tuners shouldn't be stiff - maybe they've got 'gunge' in them, simple job to strip down & clean out, wouldn't recommend any squirty or oily 'quick cure', it's worth doing properly. Cheerz, John

Champers all round! Hic! Congrats & felicitations to all