KiOgon

A Tenner

Just glad he's over there not over here robbing gigs from our guys

I made a P-bass wiring kit for Nick, he's a pleasure to deal with, great communication & instant payment, no messing about - good guy Cheerz, John

It all looks pretty normal factory standard mess The GL drawing is fine, follow that & you'll be OK, your sketch I'm not seeing very well. All the blacks to 1 common point is fine. All you need to do is desolder the existing neck pick up wires & replace with the new - what's different about the new pick up wires? The white, yellow & green wires you describe sound right. Meter set on suitable range < 1000K check the pick up wires (after disconnecting) & compare to the new - probably 10K ish. Also check the pot across the 2 outer tags should be 250 K ish from centre tag to either outer, turn 1 way to zero, other way to 250 K.

You're welcome

You can take the strain off the truss rod by bending the neck wood by hand - letting the thread on the truss rod work without strain. If you've got the neck off it's easy, place the neck fretboard down on a work surface, then put a 'raiser block' of about 1" at both ends so there's space under the middle of the neck. push down on the neck to bend it towards the worktop, this takes all the strain off the threads & you should be able to adjust the screw head - about 1/4 of a turn no more, then relax the wood, reassemble & try.

First - have you slackened the strings right off before trying to turn the adjuster? Then apply back bow to the neck by hand pressure before tightening the truss rod a 1/4 turn no more & relax! Retune & try, leave 24 hours at normal room temp/humidity - try again - repeat if neccessary. If you have done that - sorry can't help Shimming is usually only required if you don't have the range of height adjustment you would like at the bridge saddles

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1363716948' post='2016499'] If they're a lower value than the ones they replaced (say 250k in place of 500k), the bass will be duller sounding. Has anything else about the wiring changed? [/quote] [quote name='heminder' timestamp='1363717047' post='2016500'] Some signal is bled through the volume pot too, and will dull your tone. It's the value of the pot that matters most. 250 kiloohms will reduce the output slightly and round off the tone, while a 1 megaohm pot will give you the better signal and a more open tone. [/quote] The difference is inaudible to normal hearing, OK on paper there's a difference - there's a miniscule to be gained on the higher frequencies of guitars generally speaking but I don't think any of us could tell the difference on a bass between 250/500K pots, (assuming the same quality & circuitry).

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1363716315' post='2016487'] Nope. In basic operation, all a pot does is provide a resistance that you can vary. That resistance simply controls the amount of signal that passes through the pot. In pure circuit terms, tone is controlled by the capacitor. Black nylon strings are never going to be as bright as regular strings. [/quote] I have to disagree with you on all 3 counts there - many of the kits I supply have made a terrific difference to what comes out of the bass, the pots etc are a vital part of the signal path & if you replace pots which are in any way less than 100% - there can be a huge improvement. The proof of the pudding is in my feedback. The tone is affected by the capacitor - but only if the tone control pot is at less than full, (assuming standard wiring). I use Black nylon GHS strings regularly on 2 of my basses 1 fretted & 1 fretless & there's no way they are 'less bright' than the equivalent flatwounds, just different, more mellow perhaps. Cheerz, John

[quote name='richardjmorgan' timestamp='1363709355' post='2016326'] On that subject, anyone know where I might get a scratchplate done with the pickup coils flipped? [/quote] Simple - a PM to The Bass Doc will soon sort that out

Get the Will Power, crank it up, (assuming you've got the amp & cabs to handle it) & watch the guitarist squirm, serious amount of bass & mids with plenty of high end. http://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/bass I find the DiMarzios quick & clean, with a pick you'll get a huge amount of attack, probably 'aggressive clank' too! The EMGs are good, but I'd go for the Will Power personally I use the DP127 which is higher output, same bass & less mids! but it's powerful stuff .

Dimarzio Will Power over EMG every time!

^^Thanks chaps it's always good to get recommendations from happy chappies!

My eldest lad (33) came round this after noon & wanted to borrow some records out of the loft! Up he went & came down with 3 big boxes full, most of which I'd forgotten about being up there, we spent a couple of hours going through them, several Hawkwind amongst them. I remembered going to see them one time with a mate on Hastings pier, we got a parking space just across from the pier, but our heads were in another place & we couldn't get out of the van, which didn't matter 'cos we could see & hear them just fine great evening! !

[quote name='The Bass Doc' timestamp='1363386897' post='2012312'] Well you could certainly compensate by your technique but my answer would be to let the neck in slightly i.e. lengthen the neck pocket so that you achieve nearer 34.25 spacing nut to bridge. This is taken as the approximate measurement to the D and A string as the G is more like 34" and the E sring closer to 34.5 when the 'slope' is taken into account. You may need a tech to do this but it shouldn't cost much. The holes in the neck may need plugging and re-drilling to suit. [/quote] +1, Bass Doc has put into words exactly what I was thinking

Thanks for the nod Gary, Nick's been in touch Cheerz, John

I heard these are good for slapping

Ashdown MiBass 220 or 500 does it all with as much EQ as you can shake a stick at

Sad to hear, I saw yes a few times in the early days, partial memories of Crystal Palace in 71 was Peter's last gig with them.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1363097355' post='2008383'] Check the picture in the blog! [/quote] Yeah I did, must be for downtuned 4's I suppose but still can't see how 120 is medium Edit: I'm just thinking that most 4 string nuts are going to need filing out to take a 120 & once done there's no going back, if you want to change back to more normal (say 95 - 105) E string sizes you're going to need a new nut!

The 4 string A 50-120 (Medium) ? Are you sure? That's a bigggggggg medium for an E

Hey Phil - welcome back I'm sure you'll find time to practise & time to visit us here it's a fine place ATB, John PS: It's always good to know which part of planet bass you're on!

Great story & intro - big welcome Nuno sorry can't help re the old Peavey but I 'm sure there's someone who can Enjoy - I bet it's not cold & raining most the time either where you are Cheerz, John

Great camera skills too