converse320

Its a bit darker and greener still. I would have called it British racing Green. This one is still a bit too blue. On my uncalibrated monitor. I'm very pleased with the colour and finish. It's pretty much perfectly even. I found I got the best finish by giving it a quick coat for coverage, then rollering it out after a few minutes. It's hard to get a perfectly even finish if you try to roller it out immediately. But don't leave it more than a few minutes, it goes off very quickly. You just need a dryish roller with light pressure to set the crinkles at the end, after you have covered it properly. I think red would look good.

Here's one in toughcab green moss, waiting for material for the grille. The green isn't as blue as it seems in the pictures - its more of a british racing green. I got it all assembled and then remembered I don't have any cables that will fit, so can't tell you what it sounds like I'm afraid. But it looks ace. Thanks again for brilliance of Stevie and all the other helpers.

Depends mostly on the head I think. I was looking for a Peavey Classic 400 and found them listed at prices from £325 through to over £1000 within the last 3 years. Never managed to see one when I had cash - the £325 one sold rapidly. If I was looking for one now (I'm not, bought something else instead), I'd expect pay £500 or so for a well used tatty one without major problems., much more for one that a collector might want. Big old cabs are hard to shift, so not much for them, regardless of condition. The Classic 400 is rare and has a (small) cult following so I think you'd have no problem moving it on if you didn't like it. Just my guess. I'm often wrong which is why I have a house full of unsaleable crap.

I was really only commenting on size of instrument, rather than whether its electric/acoustic or whatever On that question, I think its down to whatever motivates the child really. My daughter heard electric guitar when she was about 5 and just said "I want to do that". I've tried her on acoustic and she has zero interest. She just likes electric guitar, and seems to have at least some natural ability. Her tutor has her playing classical pieces on electric, so she's learning some of the skills, though I'm sure missing a lot as well. But its hard enough to get children to play at all, so I'm pleased she's found something she's keen on.

My daughter started with a mini strat when she was about 6. This was a great choice for her - she certainly couldn't have coped with anything bigger. She learned to play Smoke On The Water with a cardboard box over her head to prove she wasn't looking at the frets with this very guitar.....She stuck with the Ministrat until she was 11, when she moved to Gibson scale length. I can't imagine a smallish 8 year old having much fun with a full sized guitar. I've seen Ministrats on gumtree for £60, so can't see any reason not to get something like that. She's now using a Vintage Wolfgang copy, which is kind of a full sized guitar, but small all round. Good choice for a smaller player if you can put up with the floyd rose.

The amp I had to repair was a Mesa Boogie D-180, cooincidentally. There's really not very much holding the face plate on the D 180 - 4 small bolts per side, which stripped on mine. I'm sure 99% of the time supporting only from front will be fine, but a couple of blocks at the back of the sleeve stopping the amp body sliding inside the sleeve would have save me about 12 hours work in this particular instance. I had to use very small children to get some of the case bolts out.

I bought an old valve amp in a rack sleeve, and found it had been dropped at some point. I guess it had hit the ground at the rear, because the impact had ripped the whole amp chassis from the faceplate. Some support at the rear to stop the chassis sliding in the sleeve would have helped, but I've never seen one designed like that.

My thoughts - I am often wrong so treat with caution. Short answer - you are limited by how many clamps you have. if you are skilled and confident and have maybe 24 clamps do it in 2 stages. Otherwise you'll have to do it in more and smaller stages . I've done 2 now. If I were to do another one,for perfect results I would do some initial preparation then glue it in one go - it will then pull together correctly. To do it like this will need a lot of clamps - you'd need to clamp in 3 planes, in maybe 8 locations per plane - so 24 clamps, though not all need be super long. You would also need to work quickly so do several dry assemblies first as practice. So you'd need to be reasonably experienced and confident, and it could potentially get a bit hairy. Open time for PVA on timber like this is not super long. So I would 1) First glue up the back and its braces and input panel, and front and single brace, giving completed front and back assemblies. Be careful, use long reach clamps, check everything goes down properly. This is pretty straightforward - practice first. 2) Glue the reinforcing ring/circle to the top and bottom panels - easy, make sure you stick them on the insides though 3) Pour glue into a bowl, stiff paintbrush to apply, big clear work bench, huge stack of clamps, someone to help pass clamps and apply glue super quickly. Glue all ends, channels, edges. Two coats, work really quickly. Knock together with rubber mallet, then gently pull it together in all 3 planes.

Diesel 1516 and D-180 here, mostly because it meant something to me personally from when I first got interested. The D-180 isn't stupidly heavy either. The 1516 is.

I am constantly amazed at the really decent pianos on offer for free locally, and would have one in a heartbeat if I could find enough space.

Yes. One for me as bass cabinet and one for child below as keyboard cabinet. Here she is at Gunby Hall on the piano in the music room. Kudos to National Trust for letting visitors play some of their instruments.

Use a router with a table and roundover bit for sure if you've got one. Or one of those mini router trimmers. First cab now all assembled and dry. Its very solid indeed. But I don't think stain and lacquer (plan 1) will work very well, so I've ordered some moss green Tuff Cab.

I'm using PVA glue - all I mean is I give it 2 coats of glue on each bit, no need to let it dry first. They joints go together fine, no sanding of panels needed for me, as long as you have enough clamps. I'm just trying to avoid dry joins as its very absorbent ply.

I'll post some pics in a while. Something I learnt on the first joint I glued up is that this is super thirsty ply and needs rather more glue than you might be used to using. I'm gluing both surfaces, and also giving each face one a coat of pva, leaving for a minute, then giving another coat. It just soaks straight in.

Well I first tried to learn bass around 1989ish. I went to my local guitar shop with £400 and tried a pre Ernie Ball Stingray, a 1960 Precision, and a new Patrick Eggle Milan. I bought the Patrick Eggle.

Super impressed with Blue Aran - ordered bits yesterday pm, arrived this afternoon in darkest Lincolnshire. I love seeing a group of people getting something like this off the ground, so another thanks to everyone involved.

I've now used with both the Wudtone system and also tried black Chestnut brand black stain with topcoats of sealer oil. I'll avoid the Wudtone system in future, at least on alder. I found it very hard to use and ended up stripping it all off and starting again as the finish was so patchy. It might work better on something other than alder. Black Chestnut stain gave a great deep black colour, though difficult to get an even finish on something that has already been painted, I think because of variability in how previous sealer coats were applied. But the Chestnut brand stain worked the best, penetrating very well. Give it at least 24 hrs for the stain to dry though - the bottle says 5 minutes, but it's wrong. Then 10 coats of Tung Oil, for a deep glossy black result.

To resurrect an old thread, there's some new well recorded Pixies videos just posted on Youtube with some great playing by Paz Lenchantin. If you search Pixies on Youtube you should find it - a channel 6 BBC thing I think. Apologies if this has been posted already somewhere. I really like her playing.

I'm not in a desperate hurry for delivery, but f you need paying now just say. Don't want you sitting on a pile of costs while you wait for all the bits to arrive.

When do you need payment Stevie?

The consideration is the agreement of the price in return for the bass. It doesn't have to change hands for a contract to exist.

Why no breach of contract? Impossible to say for sure without seeing the correspondence, but on the face of it looks like it to me. Not that I'd bother doing anything about it given the likely losses and hence remedy, but that's a different question.

With respect. You can't really say no harm was done without knowing much more about it Si. Maybe the buyer had arranged to sell the bass on at a profit. Maybe they had a gig which absolutely required that particular bass to be used. Who knows. But, if you make an agreement that is sufficiently well defined to form a contract (offer, consideration and acceptance), then at least potentially you expose yourself to risk of action if you decline to go through with a sale because you have simply changed your mind. So don't agree to sell something unless you are sure that's what you want to do. And don't assume that it doesn't count because there is no signed piece of paper.

Bad form. And possibly breach of contract - offer, acceptance and consideration.

Very timely thread for me, as I'm also looking to refinish a guitar in black stain at the moment. Having stripped it, and seen whats underneath, I think I can understand some of the terrible reviews of eg the Wudtone kits. It is nigh on impossible to remove all of the finish. Mine (Vintage brand mid 2000s thing) had seven coats of polyester, which came off as a single sheet about 1mm thick, very easily with a heat gun. But the base coat is some sort of 2 pack epoxy I would guess from the smell. It doesn't come off easily (at all) with a heat gun, and is as hard as glass. Luckily I have decent orbital sander, but it has penetrated deep into the wood and took a lot of work to remove, and needed a deep sand. I think many failures will have been because of residue from this sort of layer. So maybe paint finishes are safest when refinishing a guitar thats been painted with this sort of finish.