Phil Starr

Yes I think you should have no problems, obviously I don't have the stuff in front of me but it looks good. You'd probably get a better sound with a second amp with an active crossover. A lot of PA amps now have a built in crossover for subs but what you have will work fine and you can upgrade easily enough later if you want to add an active crossover and a bit more power.

Looks like you are in luck. According to the manual the crossover in the subs give a high pass signal to the tops and Peaveys own matching tops are 8ohms. just feed the amp output to your subs and use the high pass output from them to your tops and all should be well. The crossover means you should treat the whole system as 4 ohms each side which should be fine. Manual http://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/117940_12464.pdf

Two stacked look so good too. I'm not a great believer in speakers breaking in making a huge difference. I know Stevie of Basschat fame did some measurements/calculations on it a couple of years ago and there is a thread here somewhere. I'm glad you've got the flat response I aimed at when I chose the speaker for this cab. BTW Fortunate Son, what a great song.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1463585714' post='3052587'] Yes I think I shall look into some ear protection. It's weird it does seem to only be with deep bass. [/quote]Not really, there are small muscles in your middle ear that reduce the movement of the bones that transmit sound from the eardrum to the inner ear. They tighten up when it is too loud to reduce the damage to the inner ear. I'm guessing here but I suspect since the bones move further with deep bass it is this which will trigger the effects most easily.

The dishwasher might be kill or cure! The water is at a fair old pressure and the drying cycle quite hot, you may have melted some of the plastics in there. Oh well it probably wasn't going to work anyway and as you say was cheap enough. Bad luck.

I've been banging on about this for some time. I'll probably continue until it becomes the accepted wisdom because I hate to see people ripped off. YOU CANNOT SERVICE AN AMP an amp contains no serviceable parts. There's nothing to top up, tighten up, tweak or adjust. There is no routine maintenance. your car has lots of moving parts and its reliability depends upon lubricants and filters that need periodic replacement. It also has safety critical components that ought to be checked periodically, which is why there is a list of things to check and when which makes up a servicing schedule. No such thing exists for amps, check your manuals if you don't believe me. Now things break down and wear out, just as they do on a car but your service doesn't cover that. Now if you are running vintage gear then you might want it rebuilt, all the capacitors, pots and sockets replaced or a re-valve but that's the equivalent of rebuilding a car, a major task that can cost much more than the original amp. Now I'm sure there are other amp techs out there who will do a service if you push them hard enough. They may open her up Hoover out the accumulated dust and check for scorching, maybe even spray some switch cleaner on the bits they can reach. (Though I avoid this if there is no fault because it can disturb dirt that wasn't causing problems) what they are doing is offering a bit of placebo effect though. A bit of reassurance to a nervous customer. Some smart Alec is going to point out the odd vintage valve amp that needs the bias tweaking every now and again or that you could have the valves checked but for most of us there is no point in checking an amp that is working faultlessly.

Looks like you've done a lovely job. Did you use the dimensions of the 12 in the thread or did it just end up more or less the same? If you did then I'd like to point people over to this thread to get an unbiased account and review of how it sounds. My experience is that one of these at a practice is enough to really drown out the drummer, though I generally use fairly flat eq with just a little bass roll off which makes it easy on the speakers. I use two only in the biggest venues. My drummer once asked for a bit more volume in the sound check. He complained at the break between sets that he couldn't hear his own snare over the bass Audience all enjoyed it though.

Be good to hear how you get on with this.

I learned to treat power supply caps the hard way. I used to discharge them with a screwdriver across the terminals? At 18 anything that sparked was fun, and it was quick. I got careless one day and managed to touch the live end before the earth. DC shocks are much more interesting than AC and this one shocked me hard enough to throw me back across the room. Jumped out of my skin again when the screwdriver landed on me.

Beer conducts electricity and sugar in the beer will act as an insulator messing up the contacts in all the plugs and sockets.Left on the board and components for any length of time any moisture will cause corrosion. I'd open it up, which will speed up drying. I'd then remove any obvious deposits. I'd even be prepared in extremis to wash the beer off with water and maybe some mild detergent. Hard to say without seeing it. The trick then is to dry off the water as quickly as possible with plenty of moving air and a little heat. I'd use an airline but if you don't have access to that I'd try either a fan heater or a hair dryer, but don't let it get any hotter than you would want your skin to get. That's a pretty drastic remedy but you might be lucky. Don't connect it to any power until it is [b]completely[/b] dry. That is going to take hours so be patient.

All good advice but you'd be crazy to put this above going to see a doctor/audiologist. You have no idea what the ultimate cause of this is and neither do any of us really. This is from Wickipedia [color=#252525][font=sans-serif]Tinnitus is not a disease but a symptom that can result from a number of underlying causes. One of the most common causes is [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise-induced_hearing_loss"]noise-induced hearing loss[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif]. Other causes include: [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ear_infection"]ear infections[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cardiovascular_disease"]disease of the heart or blood vessels[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%A9ni%C3%A8re%27s_disease"]Ménière's disease[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brain_tumor"]brain tumors[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_(psychological)"]emotional stress[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], exposure to certain medications, a previous [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_injury"]head injury[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], and [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earwax"]earwax[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif].[/font][/color][sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tinnitus#cite_note-NIH2014-2"][2][/url][/sup][sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tinnitus#cite_note-4"][4][/url][/sup][color=#252525][font=sans-serif] It is more common in those with depression.[/font][/color][sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tinnitus#cite_note-Lancet2013-3"][3][/url][/sup] [color=#252525][font=sans-serif][size=2]If that doesn't send you to the quacks then looking up Menieres disease might[/size][/font][/color] [color=#252525][font=sans-serif]Ménière's disease is characterized by the occurrence of 2-3 symptoms at the same time, in discrete "episodes".[/font][/color][sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%A9ni%C3%A8re%27s_disease#cite_note-Maryland-4"][4][/url][/sup][color=#252525][font=sans-serif] Conditions with partly similar symptoms - but no connection to Ménière's disease - include [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Syphilis"]syphilis[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogan%27s_syndrome"]Cogan's syndrome[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoimmune_inner_ear_disease"]autoimmune inner ear disease[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dysautonomia"]dysautonomia[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perilymph_fistula"]perilymph fistula[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiple_sclerosis"]multiple sclerosis[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestibular_schwannoma"]acoustic neuroma[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif], and both [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypothyroidism"]hypo-[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif] and [/font][/color][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperthyroidism"]hyperthyroidism[/url][color=#252525][font=sans-serif].[/font][/color][sup][url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%A9ni%C3%A8re%27s_disease#cite_note-Haybach55-5"][5][/url][/sup] [size=4][color=#252525][font=sans-serif]To be honest it's likely to be noise related damage, but why guess when you can get it checked?[/font][/color][/size]

I'm not a big fan of a 'service' of anything with no moving parts. There's nothing to lubricate and no serviceable parts so a service is nothing more than a quick check everything is working and maybe a clean out of the innards. As you have realised an intermittent fault won't show up. I don't think the techs have got anything wrong in this case. I'd be careful about replacing the power supply caps unless you know what you are doing. It's a simple unsolder resolder task in these amps but there is a high voltage circuit for the amp and a low voltage supply for the pre-amp stages if I remember right so I'd only go ahead if You can read a circuit diagram for example. Only you know how confident you are. If you do then beware the capacitors, they can hold there charge for some time after turning off and you can get a really nasty electric shock off them even with the mains unplugged. DC shocks are much worse than mains shocks as I found out the hard way Power supply caps need discharging with a resistor before working on them. The other part of the replacement is thst the new ones will be much smaller than the 1970's ones you are replacing and you will need to do some modifications to the clamps to hold them in place.

Yep the electrolytics only have a reliable life of about 15 years according to Wickipedia. The Mk IV's probably have the old liquid electrolyte in them and they dry out over time. The big ones in the power supply are usually the first to go as they get hottest in use. I had to replace the ones in a Mk III a few years back. The tech is so much improved the new ones were about a 1/4 of the size of the old ones.

sounds like a power supply fault to me. Maybe the power supply smoothing capacitors breaking down?? I've had to replace those before in an old Peavey

Generally speaking the more turns the higher the impedance and the higher the output, but more turns also mean a higher inductance. This means that high frequencies will be reduced and the pup will sound darker (pup=pickup). The no of turns isn't the only thing that affects output or tone though. The magnetic core also has an effect so this is an added variable. I realise that this muddies the water but you want a pup that both matches the output and sounds good. I'd find out as much as possible about your neck pup and then contact the pup manufacturers to see what they would recommend as matches to your existing pup.

I use a Hartke Kickback 10 for just this sort of use. Sounds great but it's shape means it bangs against your legs a bit if you have to carry it any distance. Not a problem carrying from the car park but not much fun in pedestrianised town centres. Again I paid about £100 for it

honestly if you are running a practice studio with all sorts of people using stuff then I wouldn't start here. The Marshall tube head will be 100RMS but a valve head will be more liable to damage with every Tom, Dick and Harry playing with it and probably has good second hand value. I think those Carlsboro speakers are very old Fanes rebadged and aren't probably worth trying to fix. You can probably repair small tears with copydex and some tissue paper, layering the tissue up with the latex based adhesive like fixing a bicycle puncture. Other adhesives won't really work. you need something flexible. Your best bet on a budget would be to go for something old and heavyweight, which most bass players are getting rid of. Old Peavey stuff is pretty reliable and goes for peanuts because of it's size and weight but in a studio where you don't want it moved it's ideal. Sounds OK too. You'll probably pick up a working cab for less than a reliable new 15" driver.

The 10" Yamahas have both an HPF and a limiter built in. http://download.yamaha.com/api/asset/file/?language=en&site=usa.yamaha.com&asset_id=63438 I'd think it unlikely they'd have problems with a kick drum as monitors. They claim 129dB which would make them plenty loud enough even if you allow for the 3dB they are probably adding for 'peak' output. However the Allen and Heath mixer won't allow you to have a series of different monitor mixes. you might need to go digital to get that.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1462330878' post='3042164'] I was referring to Ronnie Wood. Blue [/quote] Ok I didn't think of him as a bassist but google tells me he played bass with Jeff Beck. Maybe there's a tendency for guitarists to play with a pick?

[quote name='mingsta' timestamp='1462215589' post='3041211'] Because our drummer uses an electronic kit, we'll definitely need to hear that. We don't need to feel the kick, but need to hear enough to lock in. [/quote] [quote name='mingsta' timestamp='1462221663' post='3041298'] Yeah, the drummer doesn't need a monitor as he has his own mix from the desk going in to his headphones with the rest of the band in but no drums. He then mixes to taste with his drum and click when this gets to his drum unit. I'm now leaning more towards getting a 12inch wedge monitor such as the Thomann The Box Pro Mon A12. [/quote] OK it's pretty clear that with an E-drum you will need the monitors so you are doing the right thing. I played with one band with e-drums and monitoring was a real problem in some venues.Depending upon the acoustics you could lose the drums altogether below the rest of the band, even though he had decent monitors behind him for his own use. With him using 'phones you won't get anything. I think the idea of 10's will work and there will be a reduction in size too, which you are after. The only problems are will they be able to handle the dynamics of drums and will they handle the excursion demands of a heavy kick sound. My feeling is that cheap speakers like the Box won't. To handle the dynamics you need the loudest sounds to be undistorted even though you'll need to keep the overall sound down to keep feedback at bay. I'd be looking for something that went to at least 126dB. That alone rules out the 'bargain' end of the market. I'd also want to know the excursion of the bass drivers was able to cope with kick. On that basis the Yamahas or something like QSC's or RCF's or Wharfedales would do the job, as well as having a better sound. It's no different from bass speakers. A decent 10" driver like (dare I say) Barefaced is going to outperform some cheapy 12 or even 15 due to better excursion but that comes at a price. You don't get cheap, small and loud bass all together. You should be able to do what you want with a 10 if you choose carefully. I'd still consider using the 12" Yammy's Just so you can use them in the PA at a pinch but that's probably just me. Once you've got them it would be worth using the 80Hz filter on the mixer feed if you can or rolling off the bass at the speaker to protect it from the extremes of kick. If the speaker has DSP built in then the compression built in will protect it for you and you don't need to worry. DSP might be something you'd consider an essential when choosing a speaker for this application. Don't all the new Yamaha actives have this as standard?

OK brief explanation of how the ports work, because if they stick out of the cab front and back they won't at all. The ports hold a lump of air, at the tuned frequency the air in the port bounces backwards and forwards on top of the air in the cab, which kind of acts like a spring for the air in the port. This works in exactly the same way as when you blow across the neck of a bottle where the air in the mouth of the bottle bounces on the volume inside. Now if you change the mass of the air in the port or the size of the air in the cab it will resonate at a different frequency. The trick is to tune the cab so it kicks in just as the speaker starts losing bass output so you get just a little more bass. Now you can see why the ports need to be identical, if you have two masses they will each have different weights of air in and will resonate at different frequencies. Now it's not only the length of the port that matters (long ports=more air and lower tuning) but also the area of the port. By making the area smaller you end up with a smaller port. So a single shorter port is going to tune to the same frequency as a longer double port. So if you make long ports right through the cab they won't be connected to the air in the cab and they won't resonate when the speaker hits the tuned frequency, you won't have a port you'll have a passageway through the cab. You can bend the ports inside the cab if you want, you could even have them sticking out of the front of the cab, but I think your best solution would be to have a single port.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1462199007' post='3041008'] Hmmm ports have to be deeper than my cab to get to 55hz [/quote] Go to a single port re-run the program and block off the other port

There are only a couple of differences between a PA speaker and a monitor, (and that doesn't apply to all of them either). They may need some sort of stand or wedge to get them to point at the right angle and some monitors have the controls on the front where you can reach them whilst playing. Pa speakers generally have them on the back which is awkward if you are trying to kill feedback for example. Functionally they are pretty much the same and are interchangeable. It's a common trick of touring and function bands to use identical speakers for monitoring and PA so they can be swapped around if there are problems. Worth a thought anyway. Poor quality ones won't handle a lot of bass or drums, whether PA or monitors,

It would make more sense to just work out the internal dimensions of the cab and tell us, then someone will work out the best port length and you won't end up with a damaged driver. You've now got two convenient holes to put your tape measure through At the moment you've got it tuned too high with the problems you've been told about.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1462146617' post='3040662'] Did Ronnie Wood play bass with a pick back in the day. I'm thinking he probably did. Blue [/quote]Ronnie Lane? If that's right then in Small Faces times he plays finger style on at least some of the videos I've seen. Mind you there's a lot of miming. A lot od the early material has quite a soft sound too which could either be down to the gear or indicating fingerstyle. My guess is he'd have used both? A bit of a hero as a songwriter and a lovely man. A sad loss.