Toasted

I suspect that he was refering to custom work... I was at Diago the other day and they've got more stock than I've ever seen there before, especially of the Powerstation and related paraphenalia. Joe.

I really enjoyed playing some of those GBs, especially Ferrets black one

Paul C did a great job before, why change?

This is a question that there seems to be so much smoke and mirrors about... I dont ever have a grip on it.

Here's a summary of some of the PMs Warwickhunt and I have been exchanging: I really resented my Stage one V until I did the preamp upgrade. I had this bass that was a fantastic spec, that cost a load of money and that sounded great in so many people’s hands (Stuart Zender etc.) but in mine sounded weak, thin and rattly. The first thing I did was try strings. I’m now using GHS Contact Core Super Steels which are excellent, and seem to work really well with the bass. I actually did the electronics in two stages because I got the OBP-3 about 2 months before the Nordy Big Splits arrived. Changing the old MEC preamp for the OBP-3 was brilliant, but changing the factory fit Bartolini’s for the Nordstrands was the icing on the cake. The OPB-3 is so flexible. The range of sounds is massive it’s a much better product than the MEC. Likewise with the Nordstrands. I always found the Barts to be like a “blanket” over my sound. I feel that now I’ve got a lot more sonic information in my bass sound. The Demeter pre is very transparent. I think it would be best paired with the EMGs... but that's jsut the way I see it. I dont think it would be good for the Barts, as it would be fighting the top end rolloff you get with Bart pickups. I'd pair a bright preamp with the Barts, not a neutral one like the Demeter. In my opinion the MEC pickups and preamp are DEFINITELY the weakest link in all warwick basses. By top end roll off, I mean that Barts are dark sounding pickups. In my opinion they mute the treble response of your sound. When I swapped out Barts for Nordstrands (marketed for being full range, no cut) it felt like a damping blanket had been taken off my sound and now I could really get that grunt and grind that I was looking for.

Surely power flicking on and off is dangerous for all your equipment? I've got some pretty sensitive stuff and I'm not sure that I'd want to connect it up to a socket that will radomly switch on and off. Is there anything I can do to protect my gear?

There's currently two people in this thread with DB750s. Mine is a stock UK model from the Gallery and works fine. (Incidently works fine in my parents house that was originally wired up in the 30s) Loz's is a US import with a non-aguilar change of PSU. Make up your own minds. I know at least 4 other guys with DB750s who have no problems with powerup in all venues... all with UK models.

Are you sure you dont want to sell it to me before the refin? JP

It's a great amp. I love it to pieces and have no problem with mine

[quote name='lozbass' post='43758' date='Aug 10 2007, 01:59 PM']One last try yesterday and I noticed a small and quick blue flash at the IEC mains socket when trying start-up in a dark room.[/quote] Mine does that, it's just the circuit breaker tripping

Mine is a UK "factory" model (made in the US for the UK market). Mine does trip sometimes, but leaving it a few seconds and retrying normally sorts out the problem

Digitech jamman?

Looks like a replacement body to me

Everyone is happily chucking around these figures without deducting VAT and Coroporation Tax. You can tell few of you (Dave) run your own businesses.

Nice!

[quote name='dudewheresmybass' post='39559' date='Jul 31 2007, 03:41 PM']a bespoke power suply is not neccessary. it runs beautifully from my Gator Gbus 8[/quote] Isn't it an 18v pedal? Isn't the Gbus a 9v PSU? Joe.