Sparky Mark

Tonight will be the first time I've gigged this particular combination :-

Cheers mate. They are the "hi end" modules; supposedly made with higher quality components and gold plated PCBs.

Italian made Markbass cabs and combos originally used Italian made drivers from B&C Speakers. They were cast frame as opposed to the cheaper pressed steel versions made in the far east. When I owned a shed load of Markbass cabs loaded with both types I definitely preferred the B&C in side by side comparisons, but in isolation I doubt I could tell the difference. The B&C drivers just seemed to be a bit more dynamic and could go louder and lower before farting out. My two remaining NY121P cabs are B&C loaded. I too loved my CMD121P combo, but ended up using the slightly better NY121P cabs with my Markbass heads. The combo head does reduce the combo's internal volume, reducing the low end a tad, but not needing a separate head is obviously more convenient.

Fantastic playing. Please tell me you are a pro (even if you're not!). I'd love to be able to play like that.

A very small current passing through a heart (from plucking to fretting hand) can be fatal. 0.007 amps (7mA) passing through the heart for three seconds is enough to kill. Would that 1 Meg resistor limit current below that level?

Do those straps work on the same principle as the small mains live detecting screw drivers?

I've used those straps for soldering electronics in the past, but I'd be a bit nervous about permanently connecting myself to my amp, just in case something went wrong, connecting me to high voltages. At least with a guitar, there's a chance you can take your hands off when the tingling starts.

Definitely old fashioned dimmer at home, unsuitable for LEDs. The bar had those fashionable large filament bulbs, and a halogen spotlight right overhead that was flickering like a good'n. The cause of the issue was the bridge being isolated due to the paint on its underside. Both the cavity and pickguard are lined with aluminium foil giving a modicum of screening. I reckon I'm in contact with at least one string 99% of the time when playing (and standing around waiting for the next song to start) so now that's fixed I think I'll be OK in future.

Does any amount of bass guitar control cavity shielding actually stop a partially dimmed (dodgy?) dimmer switch from adding buzz to the signal? I played in a bar last weekend that had lights dimmed and I had to completely roll off the top end to hide the really, really annoying buzz. Only touching the metal control knobs stopped the buzz and fret hand tapping through the entire gig wasn't an option (even if I could do it). The one good thing was that it revealed the bridge, and therefore the strings on my Patrick Eggle New York IV bass weren't grounded. Yesterday I removed the bridge, scratched some paint off its underside where the ground wire was positioned, which fixed that issue. I've got a dimmer switch at home which has exactly the same effect on the basses I've tested. Anyone know whether there's a real fix, or does more cavity screening just improve things but not eliminate it please?

I bought this used Musicman StingRay Special from Ikebe Music via Reverb. Excellent service and the bass was as new, not a fingerprint in sight. Price including taxes/duty was pretty much what it would've been in UK.