Sparky Mark

I've used those straps for soldering electronics in the past, but I'd be a bit nervous about permanently connecting myself to my amp, just in case something went wrong, connecting me to high voltages. At least with a guitar, there's a chance you can take your hands off when the tingling starts.

Definitely old fashioned dimmer at home, unsuitable for LEDs. The bar had those fashionable large filament bulbs, and a halogen spotlight right overhead that was flickering like a good'n. The cause of the issue was the bridge being isolated due to the paint on its underside. Both the cavity and pickguard are lined with aluminium foil giving a modicum of screening. I reckon I'm in contact with at least one string 99% of the time when playing (and standing around waiting for the next song to start) so now that's fixed I think I'll be OK in future.

Does any amount of bass guitar control cavity shielding actually stop a partially dimmed (dodgy?) dimmer switch from adding buzz to the signal? I played in a bar last weekend that had lights dimmed and I had to completely roll off the top end to hide the really, really annoying buzz. Only touching the metal control knobs stopped the buzz and fret hand tapping through the entire gig wasn't an option (even if I could do it). The one good thing was that it revealed the bridge, and therefore the strings on my Patrick Eggle New York IV bass weren't grounded. Yesterday I removed the bridge, scratched some paint off its underside where the ground wire was positioned, which fixed that issue. I've got a dimmer switch at home which has exactly the same effect on the basses I've tested. Anyone know whether there's a real fix, or does more cavity screening just improve things but not eliminate it please?

I bought this used Musicman StingRay Special from Ikebe Music via Reverb. Excellent service and the bass was as new, not a fingerprint in sight. Price including taxes/duty was pretty much what it would've been in UK.

I think you've explained that perfectly. Definitely qualifies as neglect/abuse.

I agree. I don't mind how much playing wear a bass has, but when it looks like careless neglect/abuse, I'm turned off.

It's another bass where the pristine neck looks out of place on that heavily worn body. Edit: I should've read the blurb; neck has been refinished. Still looks like a scam though.

It's definitely a thing that I was never aware of until I looked for it. Some variation of sustain is almost guaranteed on most basses, but just isn't a problem for the majority of us. However if it is, apparently if you stick a small weight (such as a coin) to the headstock it will shift or even eliminate dead spots. I think there's a company that make proper weights for that purpose. I wonder whether those headstock clip tuners have a similar effect depending on whereabouts they're placed?

Totally agree. A proper set up to correct neck alignment, relief, intonation and string height will make practically any bass play really well. Obviously if there's a structural problem somewhere, that's a different matter.

I think you have been lucky. I've owned, and probably still do, several basses where a particular note on the G string fades much quicker than others; typically one between fret 5 and 9. It's never bothered me though.

This is a good book for Fender enthusiasts. The above photos come from it.

I believe so. It was the highest regarded skill on the line.

There's no doubt that the neck is the most expensive component, trusted to higher skilled (ranked) workers. Bodies are pretty much just machined with minimal hand finishing.

Evidence of what please? From CBS ownership onwards, Fender ran a mass production line for all components including necks. Whoever finished the neck, there was no process that guaranteed the best necks were matched to the best of the other parts. There are good and bad examples from all eras, and I cannot believe basses with Sr Torres finished necks are significantly statistically better than others of the same period. Is there evidence of that I wonder?

No, but on the basis necks he worked on would've gone into the general stock pile, they would've been assembled on to the next bass in line. I don't think there's any evidence that a good neck alone makes a good bass.

I imagine his necks are on an equal number of crap Fender basses too.

Nerd alert: Not all manufacturing batch codes and serial numbers include dates within them. The dates may be available from a secondary data base held by the manufacturer for traceability purposes.

My pre EB 1980 Stingray has a similar gap on one side but it's absolutely rock solid and won't shift from that resting position however the neck screws are loosened/removed/replaced/tightened. Not a problem.

https://youtu.be/qBaXXbEPwZQ?feature=shared https://youtube.com/watch?v=GnMfJDNUQ2M&feature=shared

This is my 64 which shows a decent amount of wear, but I do wonder what on earth has happened to some of these ultra worn instruments?