Sparky Mark

I agree that the Roadie Active is the sweet spot. Andy advised that the Roadies could potentially turn out a little lighter because of the set neck versus through neck hardwoods construction. Going for the smaller Series III body profile also shaves off a few ounces (if that's important to you).

Blimey, Hhow many do you already have and how many on back order now then?

I'm informed that mine is now a couple of months away. Hoorah!

I think I've spotted a piece of kit missing from the above lists that might be of interest to some BC'ers; a standalone HPF pedal. I'm hoping to attend but due to circumstances won't be able to bring anything significant but will have my Rafferty HPF for others to try if they'd like. I'll also bring my solid body Kala Sub UBass for those who may like to try one.

I do "get" the standby to warm up principle, just not any extended delay to the cool down procedure. Agreed that valves are potentially more mechanically fragile than solid state devices and that discharging caps might be beneficial safety-wise. However, some power supplies require to be switched on periodically to condition capacitors too. Without understanding the full science (which I don't) it's hard to know what's fact or just gut feelings.

When I turn off my all valve amp I just throw the standby switch on, so it's in the correct position the next time I switch the amp on, then throw the power switch to off; no delays. Once my bass and instrument cable, any pedals and power cord plus speaker cables have been packed away the amp is already cool enough to be covered and moved. I don't understand where this dilemma has come from? But I have had a couple of beers, hic......

I ordered a lined fretless for my 1978 Fender Jazz soon after Status announced production of replacement necks. In exchange for using a photo of my bass on the Status website Rob offered to fit the neck for me. It was a beautiful neck that I sold on here a few years ago as I have never been good enough to play fretless, lined or otherwise.

More importantly when bringing any electronics into a warm room from a cold outside is to let the electronics get close to room temperature before switching on. Condensation can form on cold components potentially causing electrical shorts.

Yes, thank you, if I ever have the funds I think I'd go for that colour scheme.

I really wish the black controls on a black facia with white legends excited me. It just doesn't. Is anyone able to create a visualisation of what the standard black controls with black legends would look like on a white facia? That works well for Orange and some Matamps and would be much more practical in low light for me.

I totally agree with this. My Trace Elliot heads are the only ones where I use the pre set EQ button. The pre set (or pre set shape 1 on SMX series) on Series 6 heads sounds awesome live with plenty of definition. I do reduce the red 30 Hz slider almost as a HPF but everything else left flat. Somehow the Ashdown mid shape has never worked for me in the same way as the Trace original.

Posted in error. Please remove.

I used to own a 4 ohm STD104HF which was an incredible cab. I only sold it because it was physically too large for many of the venues I was playing. The best Markbass cab I've played by some margin.

How will photos of the same amp that you already possess help you please? Surely you can photograph your amp?

Ah, I see. I was thrown by you referencing a class AB Markbass head alongside the Fender sled when this thread is more about class D comparisons. I willl say that I prefer my lightweight class AB amps to the class D that I've owned (Markbass F500 being one of them). The F1 is indeed class D.

The LMII is also class AB, not class D

Although the LH1000 is a good amp with loads of power, it has a rather limited passive tone stack (that I never liked) and is heavyweight by today's standards. If you can get your sound with the tone stack and the weight isn't a problem then it's a good amp if you really need 1000 watts. Personally, I would go for either of the Bugera Veyron class D heads, one of which is an Ampeg PF800 clone, the other a Genz Benz Streamliner 800 clone. Both have much more EQ flexibility than the Hartke.

I've realised that I don't like the completely black aesthetics of the ABM750 Evo V. It reminds me of the chrome faced RAH600 Evo IV that I owned for a while. It was a fantastic head other than impossible to see the black legends at gigs. The 750 might look better with white slider caps and the black and silver rotary control knobs used on some other Ashdown heads. All black in this instance is far too plain in my opinion. Maybe as they're only built to order you could specify these simple changes?

Other than you asking this same question on FB there's nothing I can see about systemic problems with Markbass power modules? I've read thousands of Markbass related posts both on here and Talkbass and never seen what you remember?