Sparky Mark

Bergantino has always produced both neo and ceramic magnet speaker loaded cabs. The HDN range seems to be the latest neo evolution (following on from the AE and later CN models) whilst the Reference is the next generation of ceramic (following on from HT and later HD models). Although I am a fan of lighter Markbass cabs ( and do gig/rehearse with two NY121P on occasion) a single HD210 is a much better cab for depth and clarity of tone. I too was happy with my pair of AE112s but they were no match for my HT112ER and EX112ER cabs. If you want Bergantino's best combined with modularity, compactness, vertical stacking and flexibility two Reference 210 would be my choice. The only negative is the heavier weight but a small folding sack barrow deals with that for me if I need to go any distance. If I went to the significant expense of a new pair of Bergs without being able to test properly (no UK dealer?) I would always have a niggling doubt if I didn't go Reference. However if weight really is the deciding factor over everything else then HDN is the way to go.

I prefer Bergantino HD210s over any Bergantino neo cabs that I have tried. They are quite heavy but still dimensionally small enough to be a straightforward load in/out. The Reference 210 replaced the HD210 and is probably the best sounding 210 in Bergantino' range.

I think you are confusing this amplifier with another. The ABM only has a single valve in the pre-amp with a fully solid state power amp. No power valves.

In my experience rehearsals can be much louder than we'd get away with at a gig. Depending on which fuse has blown it might have been protecting your speakers or stopping a mains current surge getting into your amp. If the fuse blows again at low/mid volume levels then get it checked out.

If the ABM works for you don't waste hundreds of pounds cycling through other people's personal favourites. Ashdown will almost certainly be able to fix yours. You will find anything other than an ABM very very different and most likely lacking if the ABM is "your thing". As Lozz says based on your stated preference the only head I know you would like as much, probably more, is the ABM600 EVO IV.

I used to gig with a LM3 and two Bergantino AE112s and whilst I was happy with the overall sound when I dragged my HT112ER and EX112ER from under the stairs just to check which I wanted to keep the ceramics won out easily. They had a much greater depth to their tone than the AEs. Some might call it he........ There, I stopped myself.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I will give all of the above a go and dust off my MB Compressore as inconsistent attack could be the main culprit in volume fluctuations. It's been very interesting (to me) to read the sometimes polar opposite advice.

Having played fingerstyle for over 40 years I am joining a rock covers band where 90%+ of the set would be better played with a pick. On previous occasions when I have dabbled with picks I have found the volume of the amp seems to leap considerably but simply turning down kind of loses something. My EQ settings for fingers have been pretty much nominally flat on all amps (at least according to the knobs) and I wondered if predominantly pick players could advise how they set theirs please? I'm using Fender Jazz and Precision basses using Dunlop 0.73mm picks (I'm finding 0.88mm and 1mm too inflexible at the moment; perhaps as my technique improves I'll move up). Many thanks for any and all advice.

I've got three of the single stands around 4 years ago. On two of them the height adjustment mechanism and the tripod locking knob are made of hard plastic with no stickiness at all. On the other stand these parts have a rubberized finish which does feel higher quality (like the soft touch plastics in some car interiors versus the hard plastics of cheaper ones) and hasn't gone sticky yet. I assume that only a small proportion of the soft touch version were affected by the chemical decomposition and the hard plastic was the solution. I also remember seeing posts about the foam supports on some stands (not sure if Hercules) reacting and damaging the body finish on basses. I believe some plastics and rubber type products leach out their plasticisers so any long term contact with instruments needs to be monitored.

I've lost track of where this thread has wandered but returning to the original question if I was trying to emulate Ampeg-like tones with another amp I would consider the Tech 21 VT bass or one of Ampeg's own DI/pre amp pedals as the best way to go. If you are trying to add a valvey character (not necessarily Ampeg like) to your EA head then the Markbass compressore is one of the best pedal valve compressors that does add a nice sheen to the tone. The VT bass is a different animal to either the Paradriver or BDDI because it is designed specifically to emulate Ampeg tones.

Google is your friend. Just search for MOSFET, class D, class AB, amplifier topology. Basschat and Talkbass has loads of great info on all.

I think you are confusing MOSFET with class AB. MOSFET is a type of transistor that can be used in the class D or AB output stage of amplifiers. The important thing is whether it's a class D or AB; class D being much more efficient than AB reducing the physical size of heatsinks, fans and other output components. Even then a class AB doesn't have to be heavy if it uses a switch mode power supply in the output stage like the Markbass LM2.

The Markbass compressore adds a nice amount of warmth and can be as subtle as you like. I like the VT bass pedal but it changes the overall tone much more than the Compressore. The downside of the Compressore is the 12ax7 valve needs a 12v supply whereas the VT is fine running from a PP3.

I couldn't remember quite how it'd tested but 800 watts wouldn't surprise me.

For £220 new or thereabouts I doubt that there's better value out there. I believe it's a genuine 500 watt RMS head (maybe a smidge more) rather than the advertised 2000 watts which is plenty for almost any reasonable gig. If i didn't already have a dozen or so amps I'd be tempted.

I cannot believe that a single 10 cab requires a 300 watt amp? I bet the GK MB200 would be a good partner or a Nano 300 if you fancy Markbass.