Sparky Mark

So what is it?

In order of capability (all things being equal) I would rate 10" and 12" loaded cabs from least to most thus: Single 10 (relatively low volume gig) Single 12 (low to medium duty) Two 10 (medium duty) Two 12 (Loud) 2 x Two 10 (Loudest of this bunch) I've never tried gigging a single 10 alongside a drummer without backline support and only use 4 strings. I doubt two small 10" cabs could go both loud and low especially with a 5 stringer if you're playing rock with drums.

The online videos don't do them much justice. They are a good young band, but they are a bit over hyped due to the Elton John connection. First time I saw them in Shepherds Bush it cost me £5, the second time £15 and well worth it. Of course they are never going to be as important as LZ, but compared to most of us middle aged cover band rockers they are worthwhile cutting some slack.

That video is awful. I've seen them a couple of times and have to agree with the LZ comparisons but I would have suggested Highway Tune as a better introduction to them. It's one of their earlier songs before the vocals went too high register.

The only thing I find a little disconcerting about mine is the thump from my cabs when I switch it on, even with the gain and output turned down. I've started to only connect my cabs once it's powered up which might not be necessary as the thump might be harmless (but makes me jump/cringe almost every time!).

Yes, but that's the only ones I could find too other than £25 plus VAT (plus shipping?) at Watford Valves. I agree that desoldering this tube would be tricky. It's most likely lead free solder (RoHS compliant) which is a pig without higher temperature equipment. If you really want a Markbass head with a valve pre I'd strongly recommend one of the older TA series.

Strangely enough, the loudest watts I've come across are the 300 or so that reside within my Bugera BVV3000I all valve head.

Yep. I got a pair with my Series 6 GP12 AH200.

Scratching my TE itch with this AH200.

That sounds like a good idea. Please keep us informed how much getting it working costs in the end. Cheers.

The little mark 3 effects loop is parallel so any oxidisation/dirt on the contacts in the send and return jack sockets can potentially effect half of the signal path. It's usually good enough to plug a jack in and out of each socket a few times to wipe the contacts clean(er). If however the jump lead is still giving a stronger signal then I'd stick with that. I wouldn't bother with a service if that was the only issue but if it's behaving strangely otherwise it could be worthwhile. There aren't many techs I would let loose on my Markbass heads though and Markbass authorised service techs won't come cheap.

Cover with parcel and gaffa tape and it'll hold together just fine.

I'm in the fortunate position of owning several pre CBS, several CS plus a selection of standard MIA, Japanese and Mexican Fender basses. Put a spanking brand new set of roundwounds on any with a good set up/action and in a blind test no one could tell which was which, even less so how old it was. The action, pick up character, pick up height, choice of strings and your ability determine how it will play and sound in your hands. I'm sure that the CS basses I've not liked for whatever reason will suit others perfectly. If you ever try one that does it for you then who knows.....?

None taken. They're no more expensive if you buy smart 😉

The point if it wasn't clear is that I personally don't enjoy getting dings and scratches on a minty new bass having spent several hundred pounds on it. It's a bit like that feeling when returning to your shiny new car that someone has dinged in the car park. Some people don't care, it's just I do. I realise that my view is wrong and yours is correct to you. Peace.

Sorry to say that I can't take credit for this beauty; it was created by NoirBass for his (mine now) Line 6 Studio 110 combo and is still going strong.