Sparky Mark

Cover with parcel and gaffa tape and it'll hold together just fine.

I'm in the fortunate position of owning several pre CBS, several CS plus a selection of standard MIA, Japanese and Mexican Fender basses. Put a spanking brand new set of roundwounds on any with a good set up/action and in a blind test no one could tell which was which, even less so how old it was. The action, pick up character, pick up height, choice of strings and your ability determine how it will play and sound in your hands. I'm sure that the CS basses I've not liked for whatever reason will suit others perfectly. If you ever try one that does it for you then who knows.....?

None taken. They're no more expensive if you buy smart 😉

The point if it wasn't clear is that I personally don't enjoy getting dings and scratches on a minty new bass having spent several hundred pounds on it. It's a bit like that feeling when returning to your shiny new car that someone has dinged in the car park. Some people don't care, it's just I do. I realise that my view is wrong and yours is correct to you. Peace.

Sorry to say that I can't take credit for this beauty; it was created by NoirBass for his (mine now) Line 6 Studio 110 combo and is still going strong.

CS relic is the best out there if you like it. I like it because I dont care if it gets dinged and scratched or grazed at gigs.

You want cheap? DIY!!!

Get yellow knobs and go for the Markbass effect. 🙃

And the even better news is the Bugera can drive two of those 4 ohm Peaveys. 😉

I've got both ( plus Ampeg, Hartke, Bugera, GK and Line 6) and can get what I like from both (all); I've found it to be a matter understanding the 'nominally flat' EQ starting points of the different manufacturers signature tone (some more pronounced than others) and adjusting that to taste. We are spoilt nowadays that there aren't many bad amps out there.

Which Markbass gear did you used to use?

You've upgraded from pretty standard entry level cabs to arguably some of the best available. Now you just need a bigger (dimensionally) amp head to complete the perfect rig. (-;

Fifteens can produce great top end and being raised up like yours helps you hear it clearer too.

That's a fantastic rig, congratulations.

I had a UK built MAG (cant remember whether 300, 400 or 600) but it sounded great. Maybe not having the extra features (complications?) of the ABMs gave the MAGs a more direct and punchy delivery.

Why not find another Midget?

Watch out for head/cab width hangover problems. A narrower cab could give stability issues and using a narrow cab on its side will fire at your ankles rather that our knees/backsides that we have grown accustomed to listening with.

I agree with Lozz. Try a set of roundwounds first; a. because for the styles you are playing they would suit better than flats IMO and b. your bass will sound completely different for very little expense. A precision into 500w GK and two single twelves shouldn't lack unless you are scooping the mids too much and trying to cut through with deep bass. Low mids is where you'll find the answer.

It's a 300 watt head and totally impractical for low volume neighbour friendly home practice IME. If you only put it through a single 12 you're not going to feel the humongous lows that it pushes out. At lowish volumes it doesn't really sound much different to a solid state head but as you turn up the 'heft' keeps on a coming. I bought a pair of Bergantino HD210s to sit mine on and the walls really shake when my neighbours are out. One day it's going to a gig in place of my 6lb head........one day.

If you never intend moving it out of your house I would recommend removing the 6550 valve retaining springs. They can scratch the glass surface of the valve leading to cracking and failure. I actually replaced them in mine with Ampeg retainers that only grip the valve base. I think their purpose is to stop valves unseating themselves during transit, therefore not required if it's staying put.