Sparky Mark

If you aren't worried too much about weight I can recommend the Bergantino HT112ER and EX112ER cabs. They are my favourite 112 cabs and as a pair are capable of serious volume and deep bass. There is a pair for sale on here for £650 delivered.

If you are regularly at or close to maximum output with 450w into a 610 speaker configuration you might want to be looking at 800w heads if you are considering class d. My personal experience is that class ab heads have less brutal (for want of a better word) limiting when you get close to maximum output. Peavey, Ampeg and GK make fantastic (by all accounts ) 800w+ class d heads which should suit your music choices. Although not light (at 54lbs each approx half the weight individually of your 410XL ), I can recommend two Bergantino hd210 cabs as small format extremely capable punchy rock set up. Oh, and they have heft💪.

If you can't find any previous selling prices you could advertise it for £300 and see if there is any interest. You then have the option to reduce the price if it doesn't sell down to a price that it will. It's worth what someone is prepared to pay for it.

I used to own both cmd121h and cmd121p combos. Strangely it was only the piezo tweeter that hissed, the compression horn was not a problem at all.

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1481056287' post='3189407'] Quite true, in fact I have a 121NYC with said horn...! [/quote] P = Piezo, H = Horn. The NY121P cab has the Piezo tweeter whilst the TRV121H has a Horn. Both cabs have adjustable attenuators. The piezo is very hissy which is why a lot of CMD121P combo owners are frustrated by the combo's lack of attenuator.

As far as I know it's only the piezo tweeter in the cmd121p combo that people disconnect. The 12" traveller cabs have a higher quality horn with an adjustable attenuator so you can just dial it to off if you want.

[quote name='psb_87' timestamp='1479894084' post='3180034'] Hi julesb, I'm about to do the same thing in my LMiii head, and I'm going to use exactly the same fan as you. I just wanted to ask, did you use the little voltage adapter cable with the resistor or did you just connect it at full voltage? Have you had any problems with overheating or cutting out since doing it? Thanks in advance! [/quote] You should check that the replacement fan specifications are the same or better than the original. It's when you're playing at high volume in a hot venue you will need the maximum air flow / pressure from the fan. Assuming both fans are brushless and capable of running at variable speeds dependent upon the amps cooling requirement, lower noise might be because of lower airflow. If you have an older class AB LM3 it will need all the cooling it can get under those conditions. Mine gets pretty warm and I would be very careful about replacing the fan.

Alberto bought a bass from me and he was a pleasure to deal with. I never thought that I would get involved with shipping to Spain but Alberto arranged it all so all I had to do was pack and drop off at the nearest TNT depot. Alberto paid by bank transfer with no hassle and excellent communications throughout. Gracias Alberto.

Over the past 30 years I have owned at least a couple of dozen Fender Precision and Jazz basses. Starting with Japanese Squires (with the large Fender decal) then Japanese Fenders through to USA models including the original Elites. I now own one Mexican Reggie Hamilton Jazz and a Japanese P-Lyte as my only active Fenders, all others have been gradually swapped out for 2008 and later American Standard and Custom Shop models. In my experience the 2008+ American standard is consistently the best Fender has produced but we are talking about diminishing returns here. Spending another £300+ over a Mexican won't get you a bass massively better and maybe won't even sound better (might be different but better is a matter of taste). But what you will get in my experience only, is better timbers, hardware, fit and finish, hardcase and tools that make it worth the premium.