LawrenceH

Just to update that I did another reset of the desk and reinstalled the latest version of MixPad, and this time all worked without a hitch. I've set the wireless to 5Ghz in case that was the issue, but really have no clue what was stopping it working previously. Just hoping it never recurs! Anyway, a test and play around with an SM58 and some good headphones leaves me very impressed, things sound good. I will definitely (over)use that double tracker effect. Channel compressors sound very good and versatile, lack of sidechain filtering notwithstanding. I think the app layout could be more versatile but the quick channel presets are good enough starting points that it's worth persevering with, just to build up some useful presets. Those who use Mixing Station, is there a way of straightforwardly transferring Mixpad-derived settings? I notice there are no hardware pads on the mic inputs, has anyone found this a problem in practice with e.g. kick drum mics?

No need, the resistance of even 1mm2 copper core is less than 0.02 ohms/meter. And as John says the amp rating for cable is based on continuous, sustained current. That means running it at that rating for long enough that it reaches temperature equilibrium, and failure mode is by melting the insulation. You just wouldn't ever reach anything near that in a speaker. Given that flexibility isn't that useful or desirable inside a speaker, I just use offcuts of T&E after tripping off the outer insulation

Peter's advice, and courteous patience, is worth a lot more than the price anyone here is paying for it. The only completely foolproof, stable, reliable MIDI I've used that involved a computer was in the days when Atari ST ruled the roost. Sadly I don't think it's feasible to expect ANY MIDI gear to work out of the box across multiple OS, interfaces, device hardware and updates thereof. Especially when you consider how important MIDI is to the OS manufacturer, ie not in the least. Meanwhile I'm having the devil of a time getting an Allen & Heath digital mixer to just talk to it's dedicated (and entirely mandatory) control app, and they are industry leaders with a relatively huge development team. The FI4 manual layout could be done several different ways, but FWIW seems fine to me. It can't be ordered in a way that anticipates every use-case scenario and it seems fair enough that it prioritises basic function for less technically ambitious users, with other info present but less prominent.

Yes, I've installed first v1.2.2 and then uninstalled and installed 1.1.3 on my Windows 11 laptop. However just heard back from the seller that it had the latest firmware so that becomes less likely as an issue. Have put a query on the A&H forum, when I get the chance to be next to it during office hours I'll call their support line, I've read they're generally helpful

I didn't mention but I have also tried v1.1 as I did spot the firmware version might be a potential issue. No luck. Network is not set to connect automatically

Regarding reliability... Received the mixer, did a factory reset and attempted to connect using the MixPad app on an Android device. Error message 'failed to connect'. Repeated with a Windows 11 laptop. Nothing, can't even see the device in the MixPad menu (and using IP address doesn't work). Both apparently connect to the CQ wireless network but that's as far as it goes. Not a great start and exactly what I was afraid of using computers for live work!

I've not had to deal with double-action rods before, but with a single-action with bullet adjustment, I've found clamping the neck up to a slight backbow useful. That way the clamps take up the tension and the nut moves easily to take up the slack. Would that work here?

Thank you - hoping that works regardless of which OS are running the app. Looking forward to getting hold of it and having a fiddle - I've downloaded the app but a lot of features can't be accessed on the demo. Notably, there are no libraries so no presets/quick channels or ability to change FX. The quick channel feature looks fairly essential when trying to throw together a mix in a hurry - what do people do who are using Mixing Station, which I assume isn't able to use those?

Yup absolutely right Lozz, though the bass doesn't exhibit obvious neck dive when worn. But those tuners are unnecessarily chunky. Annoyingly there doesn't seem to be an ultralight version of the 70s style tuners so changing them involves drilling new holes. I do have some Gotoh Resolite GRL510C12 - hard to get in the UK - and they're only 180g for the complete set. So I can lose an impressive 265g off the headstock. Worth noting though that the Gotoh clover isn't quite the same as the Fender one, and the shaft is a little shorter

I can definitely see an obsession building. Scratch plate? Pah! That's 100g of dead weight with the screws! If I bought a lathe I could mill up a titanium string tree and save 3 grams.

I've been investigating lightening the load of my main player. I measured weights of various components and since I've put in the work thought I may as well share, it might be a useful resource for anyone else thinking about weight reduction on a jazz bass or looking to put together a bitsa. Haven't fully dismantled it so don't have separate weights for control plate components or pickups, but I'll try and revisit at a later date next time I restring. Cheap-o Ikea digital scales so expect a small %age inaccuracy, though it did test ok on some kitchen weights . Also taken a few measurements from an Aerodyne jazz for comparison, less than 300g lighter but strangely feels like a bigger difference. If anyone else has some components to add please chip in! Different tuner designs, original BBOT/high mass bridges, pickups, covers etc. Also neck and bodies as it's useful to see where the weight comes from and what the variance is. Will try and add some pics at some point too Japanese Fender 75RI: Neck (maple board) 773g String tree 7g Tuners (Fender 70s style) 445g (111g each) 3-bolt neck plate plus bolts 66g Pickguard 94g Pickguard screws 6g Control plate 148g Fender Deluxe Bass Bridge 106g Body (ash) plus DiMarzio Model J pickups 2682g Strings 75g Total: 4402g (9.70lb) Fender Aerodyne Jazz: Neck (defretted, epoxied rosewood board) 703g Tuners 370g (92.5g each) String tree 7g 4 bolt neck plate plus bolts 64g Body (basswood) fully loaded (pots, bridge, P/J pickups) 2899g Strings 75g Total: 4118g (9.08lb) CTS 250k pots solid shaft from my spares drawer 14g Hope this is useful info to someone!

Thanks chaps - good to know even a cheapo Android tablet has been reliable. Slightly hesitant to risk it on a gig! But a standard iPad seems within the realms of affordability, and assuming that Apple batteries and OS tend to be pretty stable. Couple of questions if you don't mind: Is it easy or even possible to swap devices to, say, a second tablet or indeed a phone as backup if the main controller goes wrong? Also, is a wired connection possible while charging the tablet? Or would I have to use wireless in that scenario? I will definitely take a look at Mixing Station as well, thanks for the tip.

Well, a CQ20b is on its way to me having popped up at a very decent price, complete with case. Entering the digital age! So I need something like an iPad to run it. Anyone got any recommendations or advice? Main concern is long term reliability and stability. I might explore using it for other music things but I don't want to splash another grand on an iPad pro especially if the bog standard one looks to have a good lifespan

I tried a Casio PX-S7000 recently. The sounds were great. Action is very playable deep into the keybed given how compact it is, but it is unavoidably light so not for everyone. Good for gigging in terms of weight but you'd definitely have to baby it. I'd have one at home for sure, the industrial design is excellent. Going back to @Hellzero's comment earlier on VSTs, I don't think any stage pianos or probably even high-end home hybrids are going to match the depth and realism of the best software ones. Of course you pay a price in terms of convenience - that's what puts me off Korgs, which are essentially a Linux PC in a keyboard frame. They have huge multilayer samples but you have to wait ages for them to boot up.

I don't see what's wrong with adding a second Orange cab if the OP likes the sound of the first, and the impedance works for the amp. Who cares if it's isobaric and therefore not the most efficient use of drivers? It's still compact, goes reasonably loud and since the drivers are neo it's not particularly heavy. Just think of it as a 112 that sounds how it sounds.