LawrenceH

[quote name='icastle' post='1113247' date='Feb 2 2011, 11:33 PM']That's a real pain, but in all fairness, he's not claiming they are 'originals' and he's put some (presumably) accurate measurements in the description...[/quote] I bought the jazz pickup covers from him, they needed a bit of fine sanding particularly around the screw lugs and corner radii, but I got them in ok in the end and they looked fine. I'd get them again, it's the only place I've found that supplies aftermarket cream covers.

What's that strange but cool looking bass used by Jemaine Clement from Flight of the Conchords? That definitely looks a cheapy.

[quote name='Bloc Riff Nut' post='1112839' date='Feb 2 2011, 07:06 PM']OP here, The last time we played I had a really woolly/muddy sound. After talking to other musicians afterwards it was suggested to me that I could try- 1. cutting some bass fequencies from the guitars and 2, try to remove some frequencies around 100 hz as this would help with the kick drum. You guys all seem to disagreewith number 2(and I can't do that with my amp anyway) so I'll ignore that advice. Thanks for clearing it up. So I'll go with removing some bass from the guitars next time we play. What would be interesting to read would be how other bassists go about getting their live sound. What are the things to look out for eg. hollow stage = whatch out for too much low bass frequencies.[/quote] My first port of call in your situation would be the VLE/VLF filters on your Markbass amp. To start with make sure they're fully off, which means fully counterclockwise (NOT 12 noon like normal EQ controls, confusingly). If you've got too much of them on then they'll really wool up the sound. In general I always found doing sound that a bass guitar with plenty of mid/high frequencies in it, to the extent of sounding far too harsh in isolation, would come through in the mix very nicely. 'Wooliness is often around 250Hz in my experience, maybe a shade higher. A little cut of your low mid control could help sort this out, go too far and it'll sound thin. It is always good to get the guitars to cut their bass, guitarists hate it because it sounds thin in isolation but again, in the context of the whole mix it works.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1112304' date='Feb 2 2011, 01:08 PM']I've heard that as well and was going to try it (If I found someone with one) but I also read a lot of plastics have something in them so the UV doesn't affect them any more.[/quote] They use UV inhibitors, but blast them enough and they should still discolour. The only downside might be if it makes them more brittle.

Right, time to sort this once and for all The best bassist theoretically possible would be Flea's adopted son (biological father Mark King), who would play a particularly obscure piece of vintage Fujigen JapCrap that You Can't Buy and even Bassassin has only heard of rather than physically touched, with quadrophonic active double MM phase-reversible pickups and a Sadowsky/John East collaborative custom pre-amp. It would be strung with DR Moonbeams (silver alloy round-core roundwounds) which he'd change every gig despite costing £300 per set, and played through an all-valve Class D micro head linked to a Barefaced Big Arse vertically aligned 8x12. He'd frequent talkbass where he'd make unequivocal statements on which gear was best with sycophantic fan boys to protect his sacred word. His closest rival would be Mark King's adopted daughter (biological father Flea), who would apparently play a beat up defretted '61 Fender P through a pair of Peavey Eurosys stage monitor on their sides. Despite using flat-wound strings and a foam mute, her slap tone in particular would be inexplicably awesome. She would never appear on basschat or any other sites and the secrets of her God-like tone would remain forever a mystery, her Fender signature model utterly failing to get anywhere near. He'd be PC, she'd be Mac. He would use ketchup and she would have nothing, not even vinegar. Neither would touch mayo

What kind of 'agro' is the OP talking about? If it's bass guitar inducing acoustic resonance in the kick drum then it's a very different situation to the kick drum being swamped by bass guitar or vice versa.

Tanning booth? Seriously

Heheh disappeared and reappeared under the correct title...for £200 more than before!

There's a Marcus Miller jazz fs on here that also has this [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=121136"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=121136[/url]

[quote name='tom1946' post='1111115' date='Feb 1 2011, 03:20 PM']Is it normal to have crafted in japan on the bottom back of the neck as well as Made in Japan on the headstock? cheers.[/quote] My 90s 75RI has exactly that

[quote name='gary mac' post='1109925' date='Jan 31 2011, 07:38 PM']Don't think he's being unrealistic with the price. Although I didn't think they were over a grand when new.[/quote] Were and mostly still are for the 3TS option, if you look around - google reckons £700 but that is actually a mistake as it's the un-road worn version in all cases. £1030 seems to be the going rate

If I wasn't all the way up in Edinburgh I'd have had this the second I saw it. Someone should bag it quick! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Jazz-road-worn-bass-guitar-/330525395583?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4cf4d94a7f"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Jazz-road-wor...=item4cf4d94a7f[/url]

compromise with C-F-Bb-Eb-Ab!

My two main playing positions are dead over the bridge pickup and floating just a smidge behind the neck pickup. Covers look bling-tastic but they'd b****r my tone right up! Probably good for resting a hand on for pick players who're feeling a bit lazy though.

Can't see that clearly but it looks to have a lovely flame on the neck - good price too given that the Jap basses seem to have shot up in value recently. Great find!

[quote name='Bankai' post='1105825' date='Jan 28 2011, 05:12 AM']Probably the best response would be a copypasta of my earlier post: [i]We take a DI from the guitar as opposed to the amp for these reasons: -Protecting against failure of the amp -Musicians will often be changing settings during the show on an amp, this will of course affect the DI coming to the FoH and mean constant adjustment down this end as well -A DI from the amp will be EQed for THAT amp and cab, not for a FoH system[/i] If you want amp sound then you use a microphone to the cab but in conjunction with a DI from the guitar so you still have the positives listed above, but with the added tones chosen by the bassist.[/quote] Point four - random mysterious earth loop-style buzzes that only appear on the amp DI and not your proper, transformer-balanced DI. Oh, how many times have I had those...

Try a Fender Road Worn if you can live with the relic-ing effect. Made in Mexico but they are the absolute tone beasts of the Fender range as I'm sure others will testify. There was one floating around secondhand recently.

[quote name='mart' post='1105442' date='Jan 27 2011, 07:18 PM']The opportunity arose for a bit more testing, so I grabbed it. The clip LED is working - if I put the gain up two thirds of the way, and the master on full, then it comes on readily. So then I backed off the gain to half way, so that the clip LED didn't come on even with the hardest plucking. Keeping the master on full, it's just as before: it sounds to me like serious clipping on the transients, and then general fuzziness afterwards. I've also got an old Trace Commando combo where the head died so I re-wired a direct connection to the speaker (8ohm, 100W, 12") and putting the Shuttle into that with the same settings it's actually slightly cleaner than the Warwick. Still not clean, but a shade less fuzz. The Warwick cab is still under guarantee; so should I send it back to the shop on the basis that it's not delivering a clean enough signal? I don't quite feel sure enough of my ground - it's not like it's unquestionably broken - it's just not doing what I want it to.[/quote] If it's outperformed by a Trace Commando then something is rather wrong...perhaps the voice coil is a bit malformed, I've had PA speakers get knackered in this way before, ie a problem only manifested at high volume where previously the speaker worked fine (and its partner still worked fine). I'd try and persuade the shop to take it back.

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1105362' date='Jan 27 2011, 06:15 PM']My Precisons are the same measurement as quoted by ikay.[/quote] If Ikay's taken the jazz measurement from his '72 then the bridge pickup placement will differ from a 'regular' non-70s one. Afraid I'm not at home to check on mine but this question has been asked before on a thread here relatively recently. There is a subtle but definitely audible difference between the two alternative pickup placements.

Everyone read Bankai's post! Exactly right.

Unless you really don't like the finish I'd be tempted to spot repair it e.g. with black nail polish and then buff it up to a shine. Much easier than stripping and refinishing, black isn't a hard colour to match. If the damage hasn't gone through the black paint itself then you can just use superglue, dead easy.

[quote name='redstriper' post='1102549' date='Jan 25 2011, 06:52 PM']I tried this, but the saddles are all different distances from the 12th fret - which one should I use, or should I just take an average?[/quote] Ignore this! The different string thicknesses etc mean that the effective vibrating length of each string varies, hence we have individual adjustable saddles in the first place. Do it by adjusting each saddle for matched tuning at the 12th fret versus open string, if that doesn't work then something else about the neck needs adjusting. Check out some of the links from this page if you're confused.

[quote name='simon1964' post='1102350' date='Jan 25 2011, 04:53 PM']Yes. In the fifities and sixties Fender applied the decal over the headstock laquer. With time the decal outline becomes more prominent against the background, especially on coloured headstocks. On a lot of the higher end reissue models Fender replicate that, as is the case on this one.[/quote] It doesn't have to be deliberate like that - even with lacquer over the decal you don't always get a perfectly flush surface upon buffing and certainly looking closely you can often see the decal edges through the lacquer. My poly-finished 75RI is a case in point.

Absolutely great for vocals. Not so great for bass if you're used to conductive hearing through your body! It's going to work better for a toppier sound, so it depends on your tone. Those things like the Tecamp Pleasure Pump are quite an interesting solution.

Hi Alex, A couple of suggestions on the technical specs. First, it'd be good to know what cut-off you're using to specify LF sensitivity. Second, perhaps putting the broadband specs first would be better so that's the first number people see. That's the one that's more directly comparable to other manufacturers' figures (well, other than the fact that they clearly make them up sometimes!) and you don't want people skimming and mistakenly being put off by the apparently modest numbers. With understanding it's clear that the LF specs are more of a performance limitation in practice, but anyone who knows that will read enough to find those specs whilst those who don't will get a less unfavourable idea of how your cab might perform against the competition. In a similar vein, looking at 'why barefaced?' page, I have to read a lot before it really answers that question and it does so rather obliquely. Although the history of barefaced is interesting to some why not put it after a very short summary? If I had to bullet it in yukky marketing-blurb style, I'd say: - very high excursion premium quality drivers for superior bass extension and clarity - dual density reduced thickness ply with innovative bracing for maximum stiffness but minimum weight - exceptionally large ports to minimise compression loss at high power - something about crossovers, if you think yours are genuinely better than the competition (bear in mind that several cabs use 1st order high-pass filters alone!) Not sure if that's the kind of thing you're after but it's meant in good, constructive spirit! If you ever did a direct measurement-based comparison with 'classic' cabs like the fridge, then I'm sure that would emphasise some of your points nicely.