LawrenceH

[quote name='gafbass02' post='948422' date='Sep 7 2010, 03:59 PM']I get mine straigt from gorgomyte.com. It's about a tenner I think[/quote] Is it just me who reads this word and gets an unfortunate vision of greasy, bespectacled, long-haired, black t-shirt boys intently engaged in a long game of warhammer?

[quote name='cocco' post='947271' date='Sep 6 2010, 03:02 PM']Yeah I'd agree. I need that slight buzz to penetrate the mix properly. I wonder if this is true of all genres or just rock and it's sub genres? Any Motown/jazz/soul players think on similar lines?[/quote] Bass-driven funk is all about the growl IMO. Check out Electrocuties by Funkadelic! One of my favourite tracks for lovely 70s jazz bass low-action zing is the mutant disco classic Que Pasa (Me No Pop I). I want that sound. Having said that I don't like the mixing/playing on modern rock tracks where the growl is monotonously there every single note without variation, loses the point of it for me which should be articulation of a phrase.

Watch out it's a slippery slope, soon you'll be sucked into a world of orange drops, copper foil and S1 switches never to emerge!

[quote name='adledman' post='945427' date='Sep 4 2010, 02:53 PM']as i thought it is just going to be sanding and heat gun. i have tried nitromors before and it worked a little bit still left a load of scraping and sanding. LawrenceH what hair dryer have you got that gets hot enough? cheers[/quote] My wife's 2000 watt tresemme on maximum heat and blow! It's hot...but not heat gun hot, which will scorch wood easily in my experience. That was on a black (polyester) MIM Classic 70s. I did NOT sand at all, with that finish it's a mug's game and I'd be too worried about gouging through the wood once I got past the rock-hard outer shell. You have to be patient for the dryer to warm it up sufficiently, but conversely don't leave the dryer on hot for more than a minute at a time or it may die! I ran the dryer on cool for a few seconds every minute or so to help it survive. I took pictures of the process and will put it all in a build diary once the respray is finished, but here's a few to give you an idea of what I mean. The first one shows my woeful and very brief sanding attempt, and where I then chiselled into the body at a bit that's hidden by the pickguard (and in any case I wood-fillered that pointless routing hole along with the chisel marks) so I could get the scraper in. I guess removing the finish took about an hour for the main bit, then another hour tidying up around the horns, but it's much less energy than sanding! [attachment=58104:DSCF1124.JPG][attachment=58106:DSCF1127.JPG][attachment=58107:DSCF1128.JPG] [attachment=58108:DSCF1129.JPG]

[quote name='adledman' post='945015' date='Sep 3 2010, 10:20 PM']hi, so what is the best method of getting lacquer off a modern bass? any chemicals that will touch it? or heat gun and elbow grease groan groan![/quote] Modern polyester is pretty much impossible to deal with chemically as far as I'm aware, BUT some polyurethane-compatible strippers (nitromors?) may loosen it thanks to the sealer coat that's underneath it. Otherwise my powerful-hairdryer-plus-careful-paint-scraper technique worked surprisingly well if you can get it started with a chisel in a non-critical (i.e. hidden) area. It's better than a heat gun because it softens the sealer and seems to make the polyester more flexible but doesn't scorch the wood at all.

[quote name='cameltoe' post='941573' date='Aug 31 2010, 11:40 PM']Great, will try this first! Ok cheers[/quote] Forgot to say I'd preferentially use wet'n'dry paper to avoid all those nasty little bits of wire wool that stick to the pickup magnets. You can get it up to 1500 grit at Halfords

Before shelling out for hipshots, take off one of the tuners and weigh it to check the difference is enough to be worthwhile when multiplied by 4. I know the stock tuners on my Classic Series 70s RI are a LOT lighter than the tuners on my Jap 75RI which feel like they're made of depleted uranium.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='940566' date='Aug 31 2010, 01:06 AM']No.2 They are better built and the basswood adds resonance, and maintains an overall lighter weight.[/quote] The CVs are certainly lighter, and better made, but IMO the wood of the VM is much richer tonally, the unplugged sound is a lot warmer on the ones I tried. QC was an issue though. For future modding, I'd get the best VM I could find. For just keeping as-is, probably the CV, but I don't think it'd ever be the tone monster the VM has the potential to be. Maple is an unusual body wood, I think it's a good one if you can stand the weight.

+1 to the fine grade wet'n'dry. 1500 grit used wet should leave it totally smooth to the eye but take the sticky shine off, you won't take off a significant amount either. EDIT: Also, if you don't like it you can just re-gloss it using rubbing compound and it's indistinguishable from new.

Gosh, only just seen this. Sincere condolences to family and friends of someone who has put so much of genuine value into this online community.

[quote name='lanark' post='939701' date='Aug 30 2010, 12:00 AM']So - it sounds like removing the paint may unearth a lot more problems than it would remove .... so what would people suggest to touch up an area about an inch square ... maybe an inch and a half, that's right down to the polished wood, with ragged edges?[/quote] I have just stripped a polyester-coated (note that's not the same as polyurethane! But a Squier is probably polyester?) jazz with success and relative ease using a Tresemme hairdryer on maximum setting (!) and a metal paint-scraper and butterknife. Absolutely minimal damage to the body. The key is to get the poly nice and warm and this seems to soften it up, giving it enough flex to lift up in sheets off the body with gentle pressure from the scraper. I think where people go wrong is in using a heat gun which is actually too hot and melts the polyester/scorches the wood. Having said that I'm currently still in the middle of refinishing, and the painting seems less straightforward. For touch-up, try a couple of coats of black nail polish underneath, with superglue dropped on top once dry, then smoothed level with 800 to 1500 wet'n'dry paper used wet and then rubbing compound to bring back the high gloss. I have to say I've only done this on a clear-coated bass where the grain makes it difficult to see if an edge is visible, but this would certainly make it look better than having a great big hole!

[quote name='steve-soar' post='924412' date='Aug 13 2010, 09:37 PM']I have set up hundreds of guitars and basses and have NEVER had to do several full turns.[/quote] Like I said it was way out, basically not engaged at all! Plus I noticed that the bullet is not the same between the Jap and Mexi 70s jazzes, I think the former may use a finer (presumably metric) thread which would require more turns for a given degree of movement.

[quote name='bumnote' post='925942' date='Aug 15 2010, 10:36 PM']The other thing I got if you didnt use them was tag rags from Halfords which are sticky pads you wipe over which removes surface dust before you spray. Then if you start off with a dust free, you have only got the drying time to attaract dust. Sods law of course is that you will. There were many times with mine when it nearly went out the window in temper. Good luck[/quote] Will be on the lookout for those, thanks! Just noticed another tiny black wool fragment in the fresh patch of headstock colour coat. Bah! It had better sand out without problems, it's hard to spray patches when the decal is in place. Curse you, dust!!

[quote name='Bassassin' post='925843' date='Aug 15 2010, 09:02 PM']No matter how eloquently, reasonably or diplomatically he put this - which he did - it was inevitable he'd get no support & be torn a new one. Corporate forums such as the EBMM board don't exist for any reason other than as marketing tools.[/quote] Which it does a questionable job of doing - for every forum zealot there must be someone like me who's totally put off by the attitude of the director, reasoning that it'd likely percolate down so that any issue with my instrument would be by default 'my fault' and their customer support would be terrible. Not saying it is, but that the forum makes me very wary. Also I don't like buying things from people who act like dicks. Too many people are quick to attribute sales success to particular facets of a company strategy, but it could just as easily be that MM do well despite, not because of, those rather idiotic and unfriendly antics. Ultimately it's because the Stingray was/is a pretty decent bass with a unique sound. The whole aftermarket thing doesn't wash as an argument anyway - it doesn't compete with new sales because you start with an already-purchased MM bass! I guess compared to a lot of crazy American cults, at least it's a fairly harmless one.

[quote name='bumnote' post='925716' date='Aug 15 2010, 05:39 PM']when i did mine in the garage, i hung a bit of plastic the sort you can get in b & q as a dustsheet as a false ceiling, that helped quite a lot. I also had 3 sides of a square draped down tp prevent overspray, and i think that will have reduced floating dust a bit. If you wet and dry down the colour before clear coat, and make sure the surface is good you can polish out a lot of marks in the clear coat.[/quote] Thanks - I've gone down a similar route actually and bought one of those little plastic 'greenhouse' type things for growing tomatoes in! The reason I asked was because I'd coloured a headstock, carefully put the logo decal on, then the first sodding clearcoat was full of dust and weird tiny little black hairs that look like wool fibres. Maddening! Especially since I sanded those out only to find they'd slightly sunk into the colour coat (though they weren't there when I sanded the colour flat), and going through those messed up the colour. 3 days and two spray attempts later I'm nearly back to the point where I can clearcoat again. Sigh! Keep thinking I'll post a build diary of my own but I want to actually finish the damn thing before I do. This build diary has reassured me I'm on the right track though!

[quote name='basskit_case' post='922850' date='Aug 12 2010, 03:22 PM']I have my Fender Geddy Lee up for sale on this site [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=97904"]here[/url]. It has a couple of gashes in the paintwork that go down to the bare wood, I have got as far as levelling the holes up with black nail polish, but dont want to go any further for fear of doing even worse damage to the finish. Can you anybody recommend anybody in Suffolk/North Essex that could undertake this type of repair? Cheers[/quote] Noticed no-one's replied to this. I can't recommend a repairer I'm afraid, but I would say perhaps you'd be better off filling til the colour is fully black but not to level, and using a clear coat on top. Don't know whether clear nail polish would be suitable for this or not! Also, I have had no problem roughing up a Fender finish with paper to get some scratches out, then working through wet sanding up to 1500 before switching to the Halford's rubbing compound, then T cut. This gave a glass-smooth finish on a repair I made using superglue.

Woo! Down with sunburst! [quote name='CHRISDABASS' post='925561' date='Aug 15 2010, 01:35 PM']Just a quick update! Ive been chatting with Roger Sadowsky about the matching headstock thing as i'll need a Decal for Dave to use, Roger is more than happy for me to go ahead and has even offered me the choice of decal colour, black, silver or gold.......think im gonna go for silver If i can pay on my credit card im gonna crack on and get the respray done if not i'll probably sell something im not using to fund it i cant wait!! [/quote]

[quote name='Spoombung' post='923879' date='Aug 13 2010, 01:52 PM']Yes, I did. I stayed 'brand loyal' and used a whole can of Halford's ordinary lacquer on the paint.[/quote] Ah thanks, Dumb question, but did you have a good way of avoiding/dealing with dust in the clearcoats? Without a proper workshop to do this in I'm having trouble despite trying to keep the spray area tidy and clear.

[quote name='JTUK' post='923699' date='Aug 13 2010, 12:14 PM']I have done this many a time for basse with really slim necks but now I hanker after stable necks straight out of a gig bag. They are still slim tho', but I am not sure I would post what I do for someone else to follow, personally. I would set the action to buzz when playing slumped in a chair so when standing upright the buzz does not occur. Necks tweaks are qtr turns at the moist and then you need to let the neck settle..pref over night. ... I also like to use tapered string over the saddles so I have got lots of adjustment both ways but my gigging basses necks are pretty stable as it happens. I am still wary of sunlight, temp changes etc etc and NEVER leave my bass resting on its neck. This is more a historical fear so all my basses hang when not used... or are cushioned underneath the neck when put away for a time. I never have the head-piece and the body taking the strain without the neck being supported.. but maybe that is just me and uber slim necks in the past.[/quote] Wow I've been FAR more cavalier! On my bullet truss jazzes, I turned several full turns to get them roughly in the right area, giving the neck a bit of a flex in between to help it settle in, and fine-tuned the following day - but then the 75RI was very out to start with (not really engaged at all in fact). I guess it also depends on the thread size on the truss rod in question, but I found a quarter turn did next to b****r all. On a (5-piece) Ibanez neck I never once adjusted the truss over several years and varying temperatures/humidities, but I think they're a lot more stable than typical Fenders. Certainly didn't see the flex I do on the jazzes when strung versus slack. I'd have thought those graphite-rod necks were a bit better in this respect though. Oh and yes, turn clockwise to tighten.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='923409' date='Aug 13 2010, 12:46 AM']Using the Lakland technique on setup, it seems the Jazz strings do sit off the board a fair bit whilst pressing the 1st fret and between 12-13th, (on the J). On the P, the strings are virtually touching the frets whilst doing this. Ideas? Thanks[/quote] The 'tension' in the jazz strings may well be due to the neck being excessively bowed, personally I like it close to straight under tension and then set the action for acceptable buzz - did this to my Jap 75RI and afterwards it plays so much easier, with similar saddle heights to before.I was lucky actually, initially I just couldn't get it doing what I wanted and the truss rod was really stiff, until I took the neck off for a few weeks while working on the body, when I put it back everything behaved perfectly and after adjustment it felt like a new, and better, instrument. It's been stable since too.

If you're not worried about resale, sonic blue with matching headstock is a country mile more awesome than boring old sunburst. And you can alway see how lovely the headstock wood is from the back if you're all that bothered

[quote name='willyf87' post='922911' date='Aug 12 2010, 04:33 PM']Using roto swing 66 rounds, i just replaced roto flats wanted the hear the contrast, but I had the same problems with the flats, i re adjusted the bass for the rounds as well, when i hold first and last fret line there is a small (as in little bit more than piece of paper) gap of daylight all the way along until about 14th fret ish where it starts to decrease.[/quote] Hmm. Another factor to eliminate is the nut, the slots on my fretless are very low but sometimes you get a nut on a fretless that's meant for a fretted bass, these are a b***h to play no matter how low you set the action at the other end and it always feels too high. Alternatively it could well be the fret lines. Can you feel their ridge if you run your fingers up and down the board? If so they're proud of the neck and need sanding down. A bit of fine wet and dry (400 or higher maybe? I'd probably start with 800) used wet with a firm block should be able to sort that.

[quote name='willyf87' post='922736' date='Aug 12 2010, 01:56 PM']yeah I'm gonna give that a go![/quote] What strings are you using? I tried DR Hi-Beams recently and they were buzz-crazy (on a fretted bass) thanks to their high flexibility. Same bass with some worn-in, and subjectively stiffer, Black beauties (still Hi Beams underneath I think) is much better. Fret the string just in front of the nut and again at the end of the board to take the nut out of the equation and see how straight it looks then.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='922556' date='Aug 12 2010, 11:53 AM']Jees! This is NOT good. Did they not check it?![/quote] I wonder whether it's a batch issue - all or a lot of the basses a dealership gets being from a particular batch and sharing similar faults. The pic of the last one that Dave posted looked like the pup routing was out. Work experience boy setting up the cnc router?!