andytoad
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Everything posted by andytoad
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Is there one you'd recommend or is it that in general repro's just don't stand up? If it's the latter I will probably stick with it, but if there's better out there...
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Ok so purchased this off Charles guitars, what's the opinion? It's better than what was on there certainly, but can it be better? I really don't know about scratch plates, it's supposed to be aged, it has light relicing scratches and browning. That said, I thought it would be 'duller' ie not quite so shiny.
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Hi, I bought hardwood plugs, so presume they would do. I have plenty of muck left over from the drilling so was going to use the dust to help blend? It's pretty light, but diddnt weigh it before taking it apart. I will let you know when it's back together. I had a '69 once that was light a a feather, almost diddnt seem real. This comes close. Loved it, see my searching for post..
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Sandberg California-I VS4 Precision, MN, Aguilar 4P-60 Well, I've spuffed quite alot of money recently, so could do with freeing up some cash. For sale is this rather nice bass I purchased from this very parish about 5 years ago. I love the build quality, the block inlays, body grain and its active umph. I had a d-tuner installed (im sure i have the original in my spares cupboard if I rummage around) and is sporting new super slinkys. There is (what I think is) a surface crack/scratch on the heal which is pictured, this has not deteriorated in any way during my tenure, so presume its not an issue. Comes with original receipt/paperwork, Sandberg soft case in good condition and comfy strap with straplocks The previous owner replaced the stock pickups. • Ash body • One-piece Maple neck + maple fretboard (22 frets with 0 fret), D-tuner • Aguilar 4P-60 pickups • Glockenklang 2-way 9V active preamp (push/pull volume knob for active/passive - tone knob works as tone control in passive mode (passive tone has a classic gnarly 60s P-bass tone and active bass a modern boosted tone) • Sandberg hardware in gold finish (slightly faded over time) • Nut width: 40mm • Weight: 4.2kg / 9.2lbs Price is plus postage or I can meet in the kent county for a filthy carpark bass meet. Tea and biscuits at mine is an option. I will give it a month and possibly withdraw once my wages materialise!!! -
In response to the above queries of the bridge, a mere fool could google bog bridges and I quote: 'A bog bridge is a bass part cadaver that has been naturally mummified in a peat bog. Such bridges, sometimes known as bog bridges, are both geographically and chronologically widespread, having been dated to between 8000 BC and the Second World War.[1] The unifying factor of the bog bridges is that they have been found in peat and are partially preserved; however, the actual levels of preservation vary widely from perfectly preserved to rust particles and dead skin.[2]'
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Love the pic 😃 -
This is local to me, looks great, I'm not a jazzer tho! https://www.wealdofguitar.co.uk/product-page/fender-jazz-bass-with-rosewood-fretboard-1971-sunburst-used They also have this... https://www.wealdofguitar.co.uk/product-page/fender-precision-bass-with-rosewood-fretboard-1974-sunburst
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Ah cool that's nice of you! I really appreciate the offer. 🙂
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Yup, it's on my mind, initially for some oil on the rosewood, but will look at that too! 😁
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I just assumed wood glue, but if you have experience of tight bond as good, I will look into it. Got to say, I'm liking doing this thread, listening to the opinions, ideas, experience, it's almost like a community rebuild!
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I'm tempted to retain the bridge now its 'cleaned up' 😅 if I can get it to earth properly.
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Cheers Rob @ossyrocks, I can imagine there are a few who will say holy sh*t what's he doing??! But, I think in general its a fair way to go about it and gives some information on what I found worked and what diddnt.
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Attempt 3: So, I then considered building a wooden clamp to fix the body in position and slowly pillar drill the remains out, but decided to option for the method suggested by @bremen via the stumac product. It is in the U.S and subsequently found it not fully available, so sourced an alternative: sourcing map 5mm Diamond Drill Bits Hole Saws for Glass Tile Porcelain Marble Ceramic Bottles Pots Brick 5 Pcs https://amzn.eu/d/imAbBRB I purchased 5mm and 6mm, but found 5mm to work perfectly removing said offenders. Still waiting on the hardwood dowels to arrive, fit etc.. Will keep you posted.
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Attempt 2... After further Internet research techniques and tools, I though stuff it, drill the heads, remove the bridge, using one of these: 6PCS Broken Head Screw Removal Tool, Alloy Steel Remove Stripped Damaged Screw Tap Extractor Tool M4, M5, M6, M8, M10, M12 https://amzn.eu/d/aSQRkUs to remove the screw bodies, afterall, no corrosion now, just buried in wood right? Nope. Stuck in there good and proper, the Tool just would not grip. On a positive, I did get the rotten bridge off, earth wire intact, but due to bridge corrosion, not doing its job. Images below are post cleaning of the bridge, it was in an appalling state, you might say it still is!
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Ok so....update... As expected the screws on the bridge were not budging, I did not want to leave as is with the horrible earth wire attached externally, the internal earth was buggered due to bridge corrosion. Attempt 1 with this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296857049181 Whilst the initial tool happily rounded off the screws, the secondary tool would not grip the screw enough to move it and kept slipping. Probably not designed with heavy corrosion in mind,but rather just rounded off screws.
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Just noticed the jazz with the earth plate you have been commenting on, possible tidy solution to save removal?
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@bremen I guess a pilar drill and a decent metal bit? I will find out when I call..
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@ossyrocks I'm in the SE and Andy Crockett is my go to chap. I need to have speaks with him in a day or two, so see how we go. I leave it in situ if it was earthed, but the original wire in non functional after testing
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A cool cheers @ossyrocks , yeah pickguard is a modern replacement, i dont think i will try to source an original, but i reckon i will go for a roadworn or something in keeping with the body state. Interested to know more about bridge position, if the current screws sheer off, would this give the option to reposition (and leave the originals in situ (but hidden under the bridge)?
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Gonna keep it as is, same as with the neck (aside from the refret). Also if the bridge plate is still earthed, I will keep it in situ, bearing in mind the previous posts.
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Well after stripping down the rest of the body, there is still a connected earthwire to the bridge. I will try continuity with a multi meter, I can only presume its stopped working.
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Yup the saddles are OK, the G-string screw was corroded to the bridge plate, but I managed to ease it off. What's the views on applying rust remover to the springs and screws? Should I go me gentle with WD-40 or the like? I'm thinking the latter.
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Yup, I've ordered some penetrant, see how we go. Going to call my local chap first to see if he can remove the screws if I damage them.
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I could give my usual chap a call and see if he does that sort of thing, seeing as he will be refretting it anyway. Good prompt
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Yup
