Delberthot

Everything I've read so far points to applying several thin coats. I'm not sure if I could get a thick coat on very accurately

I have a shallow Gator for my GK 700RB II

I was on Stringbusters website tonight and a set I was looking at were available with low B or high C. possibly Warwicks

Funny how Bernard was always associated with a Stingray but every clip seemed to favour some kind of P bass variant

Thanks for the replies so far. Its given me a lot to think about. Since the bass was relatively inexpensive, I'm looking to do this as cheaply as possible to may well got for the surfboard repair pack as it seems the cheapest, just need to make sure it contains enough. The only thing I've bought so far is a radius sanding block as I already had all the sandpaper and stuff.

I am looking to epoxy a rosewood neck that I am in the process of converting to fretless. I know how its done, what tools to use but a quick look around B&Q reveals hee haw and i don't exactly live in a large boating community to ask anyone What kind of place is likely to sell it in the relatively small quantity that I am going to need? i thank you

[quote name='Sibob' post='852676' date='May 31 2010, 02:56 PM']But I do believe that all Export JV's were Squier! Si[/quote] yes but there were higher end JV Squiers that were domestic only but I think they were mainly Strats and Teles. I'm glad that everything is straightforward in Squierland

[quote name='Sibob' post='852553' date='May 31 2010, 01:05 PM']But all the Fender decaled JV's have a small Squier logo on them......[/quote] Here is an example of a JV series Fender - not a Squier [url="http://www.guitarsjapan.com/1982_Fender_JV_PB-95_Precision_Bass_3TS.html"]http://www.guitarsjapan.com/1982_Fender_JV...n_Bass_3TS.html[/url] I'm not into where they were made, if it was the same factory for both or if one was made somewhere and the other somewhere else or if they used the same parts or not but Fender JVs and Squier JVs are two separate things. A 'proper' Fender JV series bass does not have the Squier logo on it. The first Squiers had a large Fender logo and small Squier logo but confused many people who thought that they were Fenders - that is why they changed from that to 'Squier by Fender'

not necessarily - Fender also made basses with JV serials. I have also seen examples pop up for sale from time to time. JV just means Japan Vintage as the early models were designed to copy the original '57 & '62 original ones. SQ = Squier - hence the reason why MIJ Fenders tend to go from having a JV serial to an E one. There may be SQ ones but I've never seen one. Could the seller have a Fender and has sanded an area of the headstock to make people think that it may be a Squier? Values go up and down but I sold one in very good condition a few years ago for £400 - the serial number was in the low JV13**** range, just after they did the logo switcheroo

[quote name='LeftyJ' post='750509' date='Feb 19 2010, 09:24 AM']They're not really twins, the one on the left was born two years earlier so the one on the right is the evolved version, but both are MC924's: [/quote] The problem with these basses is that there's not enough control over the sound so which knob switches the telly on? very nice basses.

There's a Trace 800w @ 8ohms 4x12" floating around the for sale section somewhere. You could use this with almost any amp without PA support for almost any situation you may find yourself in. I'm using the lower rated 500w 2x15" version which is the same size through a Gallien Krueger head so its putting out something like 300w at 8 ohms and its mental loud. I use it for every gig no problems at all there's also a Trace AH150 or it may be 250 and contrary to what you may hear elsewhere this could drive the cab no problems at all as the older trace stuff is generally very underrated powerwise

I'm no expert but possibly putting to much power through the drivers causing the magnets to heat up and affect the sound?

Gallien Krueger are another company that say their amps can be used without cabs attached - I recorded my band's demo with the amp right into the desk with no cab

000 grade steel wool is not going to damage your bass. Try it - you can buy it in B&Q. It is like night and day and absolutely no chemicals are needed to get you the smooth finish All it does it take the sticky sweaty crap off and make the neck feel like it has been coated in chicken grease

playability first for me - i sound like me whether I'm playing a Warwick Thumb NT5 or a Wesley purple acrylic see through bass Ironically one of the best sounding basses I ever had was an Epi Thunderbird Gothic Jobbie. Neck dive to buggery, even after the strap button move

Last night we were having a drink. My wife went up to use the loo. When she came back I showed her a bass [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330437398564&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT[/url] Ohh, that's nice. She said That's good cos I just bought it when you were upstairs

Unfortunately I had mine when I wasn;t really into jazzes. I'd have another in a minute. Let's face it, the normal necks are slim but his one is sublime. Angry, aggressive sound in bucketloads.

If I was going for a 6 right now it would be a toilet seat Musicman Bongo just cos they have the fantastic MM build quality and the phenomenal 4 band EQ

Listening to CT right now - gig of the year for me? I'm also going to see Level 42 for the first time and Motorhead for the second time this year