BassAdder60

Yep I’m using the black Fender ones on my PBass and BC orange ones on my spare bass Simple but effective and a lot less hassle

After trying these new versions of the Schaller S I’ve today removed them from both my basses and gone back to basic “leave strap on” using BassChat rubber strap locks Last band rehearsal the part fixed to my leather strap starting tuning even though I had tightened them up very tight. Im done with them and will stick with the more basic but trustworthy method. Although the older Schaller had issues I think this new variant is terrible

I’ve even had high end Gibson and PRS guitars go back due to poor QC or knocked about in the store I half expect a bass to arrive damaged or marked or bad build quality, the price for mass production and lack of quality checks etc even at the shops as they don’t seem too concerned!

That’s not been my experience at all so I guess it’s pot luck if you get a good one or a duff one that shouldn’t of passed QA Tuners on mine (2021 model ) are superb and stable and the only upgrade I’ve made is adding a Fender HiMass Bridge

I think also I get nervous buying ( online ) a bass circa £500 or less as I expect the quality to be iffy something you would notice if sat in a shop. Many basses in the stores are marked or being hanging up for yonks and have dead strings. When my new Player Series PBass arrived it appeared to be as new as you could hope for and it’s a lovely bass in every way. So far last year I had a Sterling Stingray bass new arrived with marked neck ( returned) and a G & L Tribute L2000 with faulty preamp controls ( returned ) etc etc It saddens me new doesn’t arrive as new anymore and store stock is in many cases near to “ B” stock at best

This is interesting as I was at PMT Norwich before Christmas to try out a cab Their store stock of basses was woeful and they asked what I played to which I said Fender Player Series PBass. The nearest they had was a Squire PBass and it sounded horrible as if a blanket was over the speaker ! I thought it was the cab at first. Told them and they gave me a Player Series Jazz to try and the clarity from the pickups was better like my own bass. Sadly I concluded I wouldn’t risk buying a squire if that’s how they can sound !! Sadly I didn’t take note of exact model so might of been an Affinity ?

Quite like that idea although no stock of the LB-100 showing anywhere I believe

Some more meat to the original post Don’t need extra cabs as I’m happy I have a spare Yamaha bass ( cheapie ) so Bass would need to be close in spec to my Pbass No to multi fx as been there and don’t like them much

Ok folks I have a spare £500 approx burning a hole in my pocket after Christmas and I keep wondering what to buy 1: Bass guitar as second guitar to my Pbass 2: Spare amp head but I have two already 3: Better than my g30 wireless system 4: Other ? I’ve looked at Sterling Sub Ray4 and G & L Tribute 2000 and Player series Jazz and of course a couple of Ampeg heads to use with my SVT212AV I don’t want to not use my Ashdown abm600 so an extra head would be a spare so possibly wasted purchase. I really like my PBass Fender Player and it all works well in my rock covers band

I just find that running a bit of compression before the amp stops those low E peaks into the red The finished result is you actually get a louder volume from the head without so much pushed input. All the notes have a more uniform level and it seems to benefit the ABM600 head in relation to the VU input signal not being hard over in the red too often !

Just changed my ECC83 tube in my head as I noticed a hum when drive engaged Now quiet again and as it should be The old tube was a Ruby but I fitted a JJ tube in its place

Wow they are mega pricey !!

If you listen carefully when you disengage the Compressor the amp tone sounds clearer. For that reason I avoid using it

Not sure where the onboard compressor sits ( on the internal input circuit I would imagine ) The onboard one isn’t very good and muffles the tone I find. An external compressor before the amp input works better at limiting the bass signal etc

Yep I asked Dave the same question and he said to try and keep only loudest notes touching the red . Thats why I now use a compressor before the amp to limit my signal. The result is I get a louder overall volume and protects the low E peaks from pounding the Red Zone I use the Ampeg Opto Comp and it plays really nicely with the Abm600

I had tried various drive pedals up front into my ABM600 and nothing noticeable in extra noise. You need to perhaps turn off the valve drive and make sure your treble isn’t too high on the amp. The rotary treble control doesn’t add much in tone to a typical bass but if you’ve got a noisy pedal it would highlight it even more. Another point is don’t over do the input gain to the amp, just going into the red is the ideal on your loudest notes

How many who run always on pedals or say tuner / wireless put them on top of the amp instead of on the floor or on a pedalboard on the floor ? I know the obvious why put foot pedals off the floor when you need to stand on them but for some amps you can use the tuner out / mute and leave tuner ON and so on. So folks how do you guys choose to place your always on pedals etc

I would look at the basic Truetone One Spot power supply as others have suggested and a daisy chain cable. The Boss PSA is a basic 9v power supply so nothing different from others on the market. I’ve used more expensive power supplies by Trex etc and for the money and power rating the one spot is hard to beat. Powerful and super quiet and sensible price too

I’ve been down this road as a guitarist and then bassist and both times returning to good analogue pedals. Multi Fx in the main are digital and although they are very good today ( Helix etc ) you then can suffer with endless tweeking patch chasing and wondering why it never sounds how you want it. For me as a bassist I use very few pedals as I find the core bass tone my bass and amp produce matches my needs playing rock etc. Ive tried drive pedals and I didn’t care for them greatly and I would not need any other effect so a tuner ( Boss ) and Ampeg Compressor with my Line 6 G30 wireless setup works pretty fam good. Less to twiddle and less to worry about. There are some great multi fx around and for some people they are a godsend for recording and certain live stuff but I would say if you must try one get an old second hand Boss ME50B or Zoom B3 etc If you enjoy the parameter playground then later invest in a top end Helix etc Then sell it off and return to analogue pedals or no pedals at all !!

I’m using my Ampeg Opto Comp as a limiter more than compressor so I don’t fit the input of my ABM600 too hard. When band is going full tilt I found I was playing harder so the Compressor gives me peace of mind I don’t over do it ! The built in compressor on the head isn’t great and makes it sound like a blanket is laid over your speaker !

I think for my needs being mid focused is perfect as it’s so clear in the band mix ( rock ) yet still has a good bottom end for a full sound. Ampeg and rock is always a good fit

My older ABM600 was a tad noisy until I changed the preamp valve. A bit of a faf pulling it out of the case but worth it in the end. Preamp tubes tend to last for years

It does have a lovely tone and clear punchy sound with low end depth ( ported cab ) Makes a superb match to the ABM600 head and based on my lower output volume setting with the band it’s a very efficient loud cab. It’s a relief as I can only use the one cab with both my heads but it works very well. I think I have found that sound and rig that I’ve been searching for and it fits well in the rock band