rwillett

Let me know how I can help. Rob

Shout if you need any 3d printing done. I was thinking stuff like amp panels and things like. Some stuff is easier if you print it. Looking forward to reading the next steps. Happy to help.

Simple, subtle, innocuous, subdued, understated.... Five words that have nothing to do with your setup. I had imagined something slightly less than the control room of NASA 😊 it looks fantastic and I have no chance of replicating anything here apart from the tuner. However I am going to play with biamping just for the hell of it. Keep this thread going. It's great.

There's definitely a humerus vibe to Basschat (see what I did there), I was going to say it's possibly due to the British humour, but realised that we have people from all around the world who seem to think the same way. I suspect that if you don't take yourself too seriously for the stuff that doesn't need to be and be sensible on the stuff that does need to sensible on , you'll fit right in. I think your empty pedalboard is a great joke and only miserable gits would think otherwise. People do sometimes blow up with each other, but we seem to survive. Get involved and tell us all about the biamping. I'd love to know what you are doing and why it works for you. I was thinking of using my Ampeg combo and a Yahama HS7 speaker to do something similar just to see what it sounds like. I've got the kit so why not try it and see if it works. There's definitely an experimental culture here, from building your own guitars, building your own pedals, speaker and so on. Not sure anybody has made their own strings but I could be wrong. It's also nice that we have people who have an awful lot of knowledge on their specialised subjects, be it old Fenders, building stuff, mending stuff, IT or how to do something. Certainly the build diaries have some fabulous work listed, absolutely top class builders. Not been to New Hampshire for a very long time (30+ years) when I worked in DC and travelled a bit around the east coast. Lovely, actually gorgeous, in spring and autumn. Anyway, welcome to Basschat. Rob

Wow. I did not know they existed. I am interested TBH. Not cheap though. Rob

But on the plus side, you now know more about Imperial grub screws than you ever did before.

The man wins a cigar...

Try googling "imperial grub screw 1/8 uk" A number of UK companies pop up. The problem now maybe whats the thread on the grub screw. That could be tricky to find out. Why imperial measurements haven't died out is beyond me. As an exercise for the reader, what sized screw fitting is on almost every camera ever made, including Russian and Japanese? Rob

Building the Prusacaster first will give you an idea of what you want to do. They use Telecaster bits so it's quite easy to get the parts you need. I used decent plywood as the backbone as I had that easily available. Plywood is easily shaped with hand tools as well. Once you've built that, then see where you want to go. Rob

Don't forget we still have the "NW& Scottish Bass Bash and Petting Zoo" on May 10th. Technically in Yorkshire, though it's on the edge and we are closer to Lancaster than York or Leeds

Luke's a great bloke. No issues whatsover buying from him. Thanks Rob

That's exactly what I was going to do.

Hi Strange definition of "fun" I hadn't seen before The original work for this started with a Prusacaster (https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-prusacaster-how-to-design-and-3d-print-an-electric-guitar_71962/). I built that using an Ender 3 Pro 3d printer. I can't remember the neck I used but contrary to what the reviews said, it wasn't a very good guitar. Its bulky, quite awkward to use and I thought I could do better. The last version is a very long way from that Prusacaster and has nothing in common with it, possibly apart from a bridge. This is (I think) the sixth version. I could have brought a genuine 62 Strat if I put my own time in as a cost To build the latest version requires: 1. A pillar drill. There's a quite a lot of aluminium inside and on the back of the six string. It requires quite a lot of either drilling and then tapping screw holes in OR using industrial adhesives to bond aluminium together. The adhesives are not fun to play with. Drilling and tapping aluminium is easier but hard work. A hand drill is not accurate enough. 2. You need to be able to cut and shape aluminium to get the cut aways, so a finger file tool is helpful. You could do it by hand but thats a lot of work. 3. You need to make a lot of tools to get the drilling right OR to hold the aluminium in the right place if bonding. 4. You need quite a few clamps to hold things in place for glueing the body together. 5. There are a range of screws, from M2.5's for the back plates to a section of M3's of different lengths and different heads. I have two screw boxes each with 20 compartments of just M3 bolts. Button headed, countersunk, black, silver, cheese headed and so on of different lengths. 6. You need to be able to design a pickguard as they are specific to the pickups. You need to choose pickups. 7. You need to design and solder a wiring loom. 8. You need to be able to use a slicer to create negative volumes for printing (this makes sure there are voids) and to pause printing to add in a number of M3 square nuts. Octoprint is a help here. You also need to create different printing infills for different parts of the model. 9. You need to design the neck module to hold the neck in the right place, I have always brought second hand (and decent) necks but every one is different, so I have a 3d scanner to scan the neck to get it right. 10. You need a glue that will weld the plastic together. In the UK I use FloPlast, not sure where you are. 11. You need to be able to properly use Fusion360 as that's where all the files are. 12. You need copper tape. The actual printing isn't too bad. It's around 70-100 hours depending on your printer, a modern printer will do it quicker, such as a Prusa Mk4. I have thought about doing a BOM and releasing the files but I cannot support it and I know from bitter experience releasing free software, I had loads of people wanting help or changes, and I simply have no time to do that. Simple things like their bridge has different screw holes to my bridge, how do they change it in Fusion 360? Perhaps FloPlast isn't available in the UK, can they use brand X or brand Y glue? I use metric screws for everything, in the USA, metric screws are less popular than imperial, so can they use a 1/8" as opposed to an M3. Can they even buy an M3 square nut in the USA? How do they align the neck properly, I made a laser guider to check its correct, why did I do that? Because I made a mistake in the measurement, cut and drilled aluminium and was out by a mm. Learnt my lesson the hard way as I threw about 2-3 days of work away. Nothing in the above is difficult to do in isolation, it's a lot to do if you've never printed a guitar before. If you really want to print it, I'll help you do it, with no issues from me, but I don't have the time to put the files up and show people how to make it and make a BOM out of it all. Thanks Rob