rwillett

DM'ed you.

Just in case anybody is interested, I've designed and printed a complete port and flange for my 8" speaker. Its the correct length, 87mm, and is 64mm internal diameter and fits a 68mm hole. It has three M3 screw holes and the actual flange is sized so you can put M3 T-Nuts behind it and so they don't overlap the hole. It has a gasket groove on the back , so you can put 2mm x 10mm foam around the back of the flange, and when you tighten the screws up, it sits flush to the baffle board, but you now have a better seal. Especially useful if you port hole is a bit rough. It has simple text on the front, but I change that easily. I can print them in a variety of colours, but red is very popular at the moment as I still have 27 reels to go through I'll print them for free, I'll include some foam for the gasket, just pay for postage and a appropriate donation to the North West Air Ambulance of whatever you want to pay. I'd prefer it to be more than 1p but I won't check. I can adjust most things quite quickly and easily so if you wanted your name on them, or a different size or whatever just ask. Different colours can be done but only if I have those colours sitting on the shelf. Thanks Rob

If you want me to nail one long piece to some pallet box wood and throw some strings on top, it can be. Happy to help

I can sell you some equal calorific firewood for £5 if that helps....

I have a lot of good clamps so it's not any issue to glue and clamp. Easier than screws, no work at the end with filling, though I will need to fill some of the areas. Also just had a call from Penn Elcom apologising that the Armacab won't be here until Weds this week. Somewhat surprised as I wasn't expecting it until Friday anyway, so pleasantly surprised. Rob

It could be that he's playing so hard, he's snapped the neck of his guitar (and of course his wrist from his arm and managed to add an extra finger, but as he's a guitarist he might need it). It could also be that he has a very, very long forearm that's managed to bend backwards and hide behind his knee and shin. Also clever the way the mike is balanced in thin air, can I have one of those? Of course I am being exceptionally charitable to AI Slop. Rob

Looks good. My panels needed to fit in a certain orientation as well. I appear to have made the back panel flush so if I put any foam behind it, the panel would stick out so am contemplating what to do. I could route a 1.5mm ish recess around the back panel so I could put foam in. Not sure on foam stripes, wadding or cross brace. Advice seems varied on whether it will help. I suspect we both have the same offcuts so the cross braces seem easy to do though. Suspect the weather won't be good here so might be Saturday before I do anything else. Let's see how yours goes. Rob

I'd be happy with a primary school class TBH.

Apologies, just realised I've hi-jacked this thread. Sorry, I thought I was in the other thread. I'd repost but @stevie's response is very good. Let me see if I can move things around. Rob

Blue Arran has no foam rollers in, I think their statement of "Huge Stocks" on their front page is not quite accurate TBH. I'll pass on the tinting at the moment. I'll never get it right. These rollers are exceptional value on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325770386035. Message understood on sealant If the rain would stop,. I can test making a recess in some scrap wood. Already got the foam. Not sure what you mean here, I'm expecting to glue the front panel in. I was also going to glue the rear panel in, but could use foam gasket as you suggest and screw that in. Is that what you meant? Glue the front panel, but screw the rear panel and use foam gasket. If I do that, I might have to recess a 20mm section on the rear panel as it'll stick out. Its flush fitting and anything would make it stick out. The Fane has two rounds of dense foam on top of the metal ring and underneath the metal ring. You can see the bits missing to allow screw access. Is this the gasket? or should I put adhesive foam between this and the wood baffle? I was going to say I have loads of t-nuts as I use them for aluminium extrusion, but I suspect you mean these rather than these which are also called T-Nuts Same name and different nuts, I'll check in the garage, but easy to get. Well...... I do have a decent crimp tool but I much prefer solder. Back to the bathroom it goes. Thanks for the comprehensive reply. Really helpful Rob

Ordered a 1L tin from Penn Elcom. Will look at what rollers are best for pattern so any suggestions welcomed. Finally had a day of clear weather so managed to get outside to cut things and create quite a lot of sawdust. The speaker cab is almost there, port hole made and the printed version fits in nicely. The speaker hole looks great (even if I do say so myself), the router and the home made adapter works a treat. The marks from the circular saw will disappear as I'll gently sand and it's coming to be covered with black Armacab. I also cut the hole for the spray cabinet extractor fan and the power switch. Not wired up yet but that's not a big deal. Got 5m of extractor hose that will go on the extractor fan so it takes a load of the fumes and spray away. Todays job is doing the rear connector panel and probably soldering wires in. It's also raining. A few questions: I'm unsure how to mount the rear connector panel. Should I just put foam tape on the inside and squash it down to seal it and that's the gasket to reduce leaks. If so I'd probably need to recess the panel so it doesn't stick out too much. I feel I could do that now I've had some practise with the router. I could just put sealant on the underside and squash that. Not sure of the best way. Should I use screws or bolts for the rear panel? I can put an M3 bolt through and a lock nut on the other side. Not sure which is best. I have both so it's not an issue Should the loudspeaker be bolted in or screwed in? It appears to have quite a dense foam on the front and rear of the Fane speaker. So assuming that I don't need any more foam around that? Should I put silicone sealant all around the inside of the speaker where the batterns are? I think there is a lot of glue but cant guarantee its 100% I'm intending to solder the internal wires to the speaker. I've seen comments on using spades but can't see any issues with solder myself. The reason I'm asking these is that I can't do bolts on both systems as I lose access as the front and rear panels go on. So am assuming that screws are probably the way to go, possibly with some sealant to help lock them in? Thanks Rob

How did I miss that from Penn Elcom? That's sensibly priced as well. Here's the web page https://www.penn-elcom.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Armacab Does this mean that if I brought white I could tint it red ? Rob

There are two people bidding for this. I'd bet your kidney that at least one is the a friend of the seller pushing the price up, possibly both. I'd keep as far away from this as possible.

What were the shipping costs for this from France?