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rwillett

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Everything posted by rwillett

  1. rwillett
    Clearly some people will The phrases that are always there: "Perfect for any..." "Whether you're a beginner...." "Must-have..." "... sure to impress" I sell on eBay and have never used the AI description generator. I put more effort into the description for my Dremel router table (don't laugh) for £20 than this bloke did for a circa £4K bass. Lets see if it sells Rob
  2. rwillett
    Hi To help the fund raising, I'm offering pedal risers for your pedal board. These are made to measure and I can make them just about any (sensible) size. All you need to do is make a donation to this fund. More information here. If funds are a bit tight, then contact me, the aim here is to raise money, not for me to make a profit (if only), so every penny goes to Andy and his daughter, Thanks Rob Rob
  3. rwillett
    Hi To help @AndyTravis's fund raiser for his daughter, I'm happy to 3D print pedal risers for your pedalboard. This is an idea from @LukeFRC so can't take much credit for this. These will be made to measure, so don't worry if you have an odd sized pedal (oohherr missus), I'll print them to fit. I'll even supply genuine Velcro and post for free. All you have to do is make a donation to the fund here In the best Blue Peter tradition, here's a few I made earlier. The small one is for a Petersen Tuner but suspect its a similar size to the Boss pedals (of which I have none), its 125mm x 64mm x 25mm high. Here's the side view where you can see the cable holes. The holes are 15mm. This is for a Mod Dwarf (200mm x 100mm x 25mm) and has screw holes to connect it to aluminium extrusion. I have a home made pedal board, I wouldn't expect you to need screw holes so I'd remove them for you. This is for an IK Media ToneX pedal (170mm x 140mm x 25mm), note that its slightly H-shaped as the pedal is quite wide and not very long. Again I have screw holes but I'd remove these. The cable holes allow you to hide the cables underneath the pedal which is nice. I'll do these for a £5 donation for the small pedals and a £10 donation for the large pedals. I'll throw the Velcro in and do free postage as well. Every penny goes to the fund. As these are printed individually, it's zero effort to change them to exactly the size you want, length and width and height, I can also do them in black, red, white, sparkly blue. I can also remove the cable holes, change the size. I'd remove the screw holes as well as they are specific for me. Thanks for looking Rob
  4. rwillett
    Anyone know of a Jazz with a 66 body and a 64 neck. Asking for a friend...
  5. rwillett
    That's the sort of useful information that makes such a difference. [ Update: Just reread this and it sounds like I'm being sarcastic. I'm not. ] Rob
  6. rwillett
    Got you. Thx
  7. rwillett
    Thanks for this. Is this just a pre amp or will it evolve into an amp stage as well? Rob
  8. rwillett
    After using the pedalboard I then found out that it's quite difficult to hit the pedals on the back of the board without hitting the foot switches on the front. I could easy break the pedalboard into one long boards but I'd like to keep it in two rows. So I made some pedal risers that are 25mm higher. Not sure if that's enough but I'll try that to start. I created two designs in F360, one a rectangular one for pedals that aren't too wide, the Mod Dwarf is an example of this, long and thin - 200mm x 100mm, and an H shaped one for wider pedals, such as the ToneX, which is 170mm x 140mm. It's all parametrised in F360 so making it 10mm longer or wider or higher is trivial. Takes about 3-4 hours per riser to print. I've stood on them so they are pretty strong. There are holes through for cable management. These are the horizontal holes, I made sure that a Cioks cables fits through and it easily does both horizontally and vertically. The vertical holes are for screwing the risers to the aluminium extrusion. Eight screws is massive overkill so I only use four of them, they are there in case I change the design or I make this into a production ready design and need more options. Design it in now and then forget about it. The horizontal sections are 25mm wide and so 20mm Velcro nicely fits. This is without Velcro and with velcro and a ToneX pedal. Works well and is very sturdy. Rob
  9. rwillett
    Brought a couple of nice straps from him. Well priced and really very nice. Confused the hell out of me when the package arrived very quickly as it looked like it was professionally wrapped and I wasn't sure what it was Thats a good thing BTW Pleasure to deal with Thanks Rob
  10. rwillett
    I was planning on making my next bass to be a sparkly blue. However after seeing these, I am going to have to go back to the drawing board and find something a lot more sparkly to make I am a mere amateur here and need to up my game... Rob
  11. rwillett
    This shape is going to be my next 3d printed bass. I was (and still might) make it headless, so its loosely (very, very loosely) based on a Thunderbird. Oddly enough I have blue sparkly filament all lined up for it. It might be ready for next years NW and Scotland (and a bit of the SW) Bass Bash 2025 in May. Or it might not
  12. rwillett
    So does this mean I get to pass on my Westfield bass (circa 2012) with three strings but I get back a 58 Precision? Just wondering.... Sounds good to me Rob
  13. rwillett
    Hi I'm giving away pedal tops for foot switches in return for a donation to the Just Giving fund for Iris Travis. You can find 26 pages of comments and donations here in the For Sale section. The Ripper is no longer for sale as we are trying to raise as much money as possible for a wet room for Iris. There's a lot of people helping support @AndyTravis and his fantastic daughter, Iris, through donations and other things. I'm happy to print these pedal toppers and send them to you for nowt, nothing, zilch pounds, null points in return for a circa £1 donation per pedal top for Andy. I can both 10mm and 8.75 mm footswitchs or if you have a different size, I can probably do that. You can have them smooth topped or concentric rings. I can make them larger or smaller diameter and you can mix and match colours. Below are from left to right, Galaxy Black Galaxy Blue Prusa Orange Fire Engine Red I can also do white and plain black. Here's them in real life on my mixer pedal. Barefoot pedals are a lot more money and none of that goes to Iris, so if you want any or anything else 3d printed just ask. These would make great stocking fillers or secret Santa gifts for that musically minded person in your life. Every single penny raised goes to Iris, so by buying these you're helping out a very special little girl. Thanks Rob
  14. rwillett
    Sorry but how can the “whatever it is under the strings by the bridge” work? do you put your fingers on it between the strings and then use your thumb? I’ve just tried it on my bass using the bridge pickup and it feels very odd. Rob
  15. rwillett
    Wow, what a set of photos. Really impressed (and very jealous).
  16. rwillett
    A slight design change. I'd used the handles as designed by the original people. These handles sat on the top of the board and screwed into the v-slots using t-nuts. They also took up valuable space. One of the really nice things about V/T-slot extrusion is they have things like 5mm holes in the end. These holes can be tapped with a M5 tap set, so pulled mine out the garage and tapped eight holes. I can now screw M5 bolts in. The design for the original handles wasn't quite right, so I did them all again so that the handles covered the end of the extrusions properly. It looks very nice from the bottom and from the top Really pleased with this, if anybody is interested, I'll happily make one for the price of the parts and a donation to Andy's BC donation fund Rob
  17. rwillett
    They are great models. The thermistor and heater block are known issues with the Prusa Mk3. I have a bag of spare ones I no longer need so if anybody needs one, just ask. I have used the wire for wirimg guitars as it looks nice The LCD plates are items that wear out, same as the photocopying equivalent. However thats about as far as my knowledge of resin printers go. I also make astrophotography parts, especially made to measure tube rings (http://www.starclamps.com). I had a friend make me a ring in resin. My FDM version is designed to bend very, very slightly to ensure a tight fit on the telescope. The FDM one snapped so I never bothered with resin printing again. However for making very intricate models, resin printing is the way to go. The new models have some insane levels of detail, 12K points or something. Perhaps one day I'll buy one and see how I can make use of it. Thanks Rob
  18. rwillett
    I have the three foot switch version and think it's great. I tend to find I use it for the older Fender amps and don't really get on that much with the hi gain amp sims. That's not my bag mainly because I can't play very well. It sounds great with a Fender Bassman and my Tele. I use it behind a Mod Dwarf. The dwarf tends to more pedal effects rather than amps. I agree about the interface being garbage. To be honest, you can apply that to most of the IK range of software. I work in IT as that's my job and I struggle to understand how it works and fits together. The only worst piece of software I know is is the RUFC Game Management Software which makes this look like a work of genius. I really need to download the manual and sit down with it for a few hours along with a decent white and work my way through it. Looking forward to the upgrade.
  19. rwillett
    Bump just to remind people.
  20. rwillett
    Hi pm'ed you
  21. rwillett
    No idea why it went like this. Its supposed to be a case like this. It is quite thin but not that thin.
  22. rwillett
    Sorry, I thought we were talking about ears. Thats slightly more tricky than ears as it needs the right colour grey and a line in the middle. Its normally easier to buy them if you can TBH. Have you looked at RS Components or Farnell? RS Components has 104 pages of knobs, none of which look like Nigel Farage. The other thing I'd do is take a picture of the knob and do a reverse search on the image on Google to see if anything else pops ... Sorry to be confused, the offer of a drink still stands. Rob
  23. rwillett
    I have made 3d printed rack ears for my network gear. Its dead easy to design but it depends on the size and weight of the gear. Technically it depends on the centre of gravity of the unit. I can print it relatively strong (note the word relatively). However if you have a 50Kg tube amp thats 30cm deep and the transformer and valve units are at the back of the unit, that'll be a stretch for the ears. Conversely if the weight is at the front and its solid state, I suspect its fine. One way to check this is to weigh the unit as whole. Then find a nice pivot point to rest the amp on (simple narrow piece of wood), put two pieces of foam underneath the amp either side of the pivot point and move the point around until the amp kinda balances. Is it at the front, the back, or in the middle? That plus the weight should give a rough idea of whats needed. One other way is I keep printing bigger and stronger ears and give them to @ossyrocks until they work. A better way would be for him to bring the amp and rack to me (we live about 40 mins from Morecombe/Lancaster near Settle) along with a glass or two of something nice and we try it out on the spot and adapt. Rob
  24. rwillett
    This was a case for a Phil Jones HA-2 Headphone Amp or was supposed to be Never had one blow up like this before.
  25. rwillett
    Five mins? In some parts of the UK, scroats will have all four wheels off your car, radio out, boot cleared in 30 secs and they'll be chatting your missus up at the same time. They're now gainfully employed teaching F1 teams how to be even faster in the pit stops.
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