rwillett

no longer available

I didn't expect to get a MusicMan tone, I had a play on it and loved the sound but didn't like the feel of the neck, very subjective but thats just me. Kli0gon has come back and we'll have a chat. Thanks for letting me know. It looked authentic, bit sloppy on the solder I thought, but hey ho, it is what it is. Thanks Rob

@jrixn1 Thanks for this. The holes in the control plate are 8.14mm. The pots have all the signs of never having been removed. There's a washer underneath the flat nut, and it feels like its never been turned in 25+ years. I beleive the MIA Jazz are larger holes but thats just my understanding. I would like a meatier tone as you suggest. Its difficult to describe 'tone' but I did listen and play an active Music man and that really punched out bass notes. I know it was active but wow! Just looked at http://www.ak-line.com/medium/Bassschaltungen.pdf, thats a lot of guitars and somebody has really put the effort in to bring that information together. My German is limited to the little I studied in school but I can follow a diagram so I'll look at that. I'm happy to contact KiOgon and see if he/she can assist here. Whilst part of me loves tinkering (I have two Prusa 3d printers on the go), my heart says "yeah, lets play", my head says "get back to bloody work and earn some money" so perhaps KiOgon is the way forward. @Lw. I actually have a mod_dwarf and am still playing with it to learn what it can do. I was trying to get the sound right before I tried adjusting it in the mod dwarf, my thinking (probably wrongly), is to get the bass sounding as good as it can and then play about with pedals. Happy to disabused about this. @Bassman68 Similar recommendations for KiOgon, which is good to know. I have seen the J East retro fit, not cheap but might be worth it. The control plate is off the Jazz so I can measure things up and see if that is an option. Appreciate all the help Rob

Good information, thanks for checking. Please do a proper build thread. Rpb

Julian Yes all donation details should be there. DM me your address and I'll drop.it in the post. Will be tomorrow though. Rob

I accidently brought two of these adapters last week. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxuni-Bluetooth-Computer-Receiver-Keyboard/dp/B09MLGP9SP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PQOPH1MK9KZA&keywords=Maxuni+USB+Bluetooth+5.1&qid=1691423261&s=electronics&sprefix=maxuni+usb+bluetooth+5.1%2Celectronics%2C100&sr=1-3 for a mod_dwarf. It works perfectly well on the mod_dwarf but I don't need two of them. The other one is unopened and I can send it back to Amazon, but if somebody else wants it, they can have it. I'll even post it for nothing, though I'd appreciate a small donation to the North West Air Ambulance of whetever sum you like. It wasn't expensive but if it saves somebody a little money, thats fine by me. Thanks Rob

I have a 97 Made in Japan Fender Jazz (Lake Placid Blue) and I love the neck on it. To be honest that’s the reason I brought it. As an ex rugby player, the weight is pretty immaterial and as I have the arms (and possibly the body) of an orangutan, the neck length is fine. It’s a great guitar BUT the knobs and controls seem to do very little apart from turning the volume down on each of them. I get far more different tone from where I play the strings. I brought it second hand and I know the bridge isn’t a genuine Fender and had assumed that the electrics were a bit dodgy. So I took the plate off today and had a look, somewhat surprisingly, I think that these are the original pots and capacitors. Can someone confirm this please based on the pictures? Assuming these controls are original, I’m not keen to throw these away but I have no issues with replacing them with something new to give me some more variety of tones and keeping the originals for if I ever sell. I have read (and re-read and re-re-read) to try and work out what my options are and am more confused than ever. I don’t think I need active, I want to get a variety of tones, something with some bass grunt, but also a bit more treble and bite. I want my cake and to eat it 😊 I’m more than happy to spend £100+ on replacing the stuff, for a top class solution, I can spend more, I can solder so I’m not looking for the easiest plug and play solution, but if plug and play is a good option, then that’s great. I believe that the control plate on the MIJ Fender Jazz’s might need to be replaced along with the knobs and that’s fine. Should I also be looking at replacing the pickups? Or are they seen as pretty good. My problem is that I know nobody who even plays guitar within a 45 min drive (I live in rural North Yorkshire), so can’t easily compare and contrast with another bass. Any help or simple guidance welcomed. Many thanks Rob

These are part of the bronze, silver and gold range. The bronze option is listen, seat but no view. The silver option is listen, no seat and no view The gold option is no listen, no seat and no view. Just don't turn up. I'm going with the gold option.

I can help you with that. Just send me the £100 and I'll guarantee you never own it. Thanks Rob

Welcome to the forum. Ex of Greenwich myself, many a happy ship down in The Glades in Bromley. Suspect I kept Richer Sounds in business as well.

I didn't think it was a stupid question either, what was stupid was me thinking I knew that answer. After reading this thread, I'm not sure I'm that much wiser but I now appreciate it's not as simple as the simple and stupid answer I had thought of. Always nice to learn something new. Rob

Three, two, one... Streisand Effect.

I agree 100%. I also do the same with HMRC. They are one group of people you never want to be on the wrong side of.

Thanks for this. It may be very true and highly accurate but you didn't need to say it 😊 Just off to check the sands in my timer. ⏳⚰️

A bass for Seasick Steve?

We like Morecambe. Didn't know there was a blues band there. Will look for them. [edited as I can’t read band properly and read bar instead]

We live in Clapham and the CFO does the admin for the village hall so that's easy. It's a typical village hall, large space for stuff, separate kitchen, and eating area. Clean and well looked after. It has the benefit of free gigabit broadband to the premises with WiFi courtesy of B4RN. Not sure what that means for bass playing but you aren't going to struggle for access to social media. Let's see how many more might be interested and see if we can find a date that works in a few months time. Penrith is exactly one hour from us. We play rugby up there. Newcastle is around 2.5 hours as we play rugby there as well. Liverpool is just under two hours, you can probably guess why I know that. Leeds is about 90 mins depending on how many tractors are on the A65 that day. York is around two hours.

It says "Message me with any questions...". I'll start the ball rolling 1. Why? Next...

Just read this again and delamination can be caused by under extrusion. All roads lead to hot end at the moment. Rob

The update to all metal extruder complicates things. Any idea what it is? I wonder if that's why you have to print at 230C for PLA as something doesn't sound right. I print PETG at 240 then 235. So you're up there at PETG levels. It's entirely possible that your problem is related to the new hot end. Have you ever seen anything printed properly with it? Rob

230c is very hot for PLA. I printed all my PLA at around 205C. What filament is it? If it's too hot you'll probably get elephants feet in your models. Other things to check is the extruder and is it accurate. Google for ender 3 extrusion calibration. You basically measure how much filament goes through on demand. Easy check to make. I've loads of Ender 0.4 nozzles I can post you down for nothing. I'll be honest and say I rarely changed brass nozzles on my ender 3 and I printed a lot of PLA. Low hundreds of rolls for certain. If things are blocked in your nozzle then check the white PTFE tube and that it sits flush against the hot end. Use a proper right angled cutter on the PTFE on Capricorn tube if need be. If you haven't got a right angled cutter, I probably have one I don't need (no idea where it is and I'm on holiday for two weeks) or I'll print you a little mitre block that let's you use a small x-acto blade knife to get it at. Need to know the size of the PTFE tube. This issue manifests itself as filament comes out of PTFE against the hot end due the heat BUT oozes out around the PTFE tube and restricts filament flow. The extrusion test will demonstrate it but the causes are different. Also what speed are you printing at? Perhaps your profile in your slicer is wrong. Also let's get some pictures of Benchy and the temp tower. Let's see exactly what it Looks like? Other things that can be wrong on the ender 3 is that each axis is not at 90 degrees. Printing small towers, say 30mm by 10mm can show that. Print the tower twice pointing in each dimension. Then check each pair of towers by placing them back to back and rotate one tower by 90 degrees. The Ender 3 easily gets out of alignment. A calibration cube 10mmx10mmx10mm won't show this as the cube could be a rhombus. Most Ender are out by 0.5 degree in one of the axis. The last common issue is the brass wheel, spring and red arm on the back of the extruder might need replacing. The extrusion test might show this but the spring goes weak. It's a poor design to be honest and replacing it with direct drive makes a big difference. Are you printing inside or in a shed or garage. That might account for the temperature you need to print at. The best thing about the Ender 3 is that just about every problem can be solved relatively easily and cheaply though it takes time. The tolerances on 3d printing are very low. A very small change of 0.5mm can make the difference between a print working or not. Pictures are a massive help here. Show us the issue and it might jump out. Hope this helps Rob

@Smanth I still can't believe that it works OK now😊 Rob

That looks great. Hadn't heard of that model before but there's lots out there. Nozzles are dirt cheap (unless you are going special filaments). I've been playing with glow in the dark filament and it's a nightmare. Hardened Nozzles and I print at 240c rather than the recommended 200C. That's the only way it would actually lay down. That's three of us so far. Anybody else?