rwillett

Can you draw with sizes the above? It doesn't need to be an accurate drawing, but the measurements need to be accurate. Preferably in metric. If the ID is 100mm, then state that, the drawing doesn't need to be 100mm itself. Which part is the collar? Are the edges at 90 degrees or are they chamfered or rounded? How much does the internal tube stick out? Is the port two pieces or one? I'm in Spain for a few days and thingiverse isn't working for me Are there any mounting holes? If so what's the diameter of the holes? What's the spacing angle between the holes? The design looks easy to print but the devil appears to be in the details. I suspect once every measurement is known, it'll be a few mins work in F360. But we need every measurement and if edges need to be chamfered or whatever. If its going to be printed, make it exactly what you want. You can work to 0.2mm or less if you need to Rob

I can't print anything til end of next week though as I'm away. 4" is not a problem though.

Looks fairly easy to print though.

Hi The maximum external diameter I can print in one piece is 220mm. However if it can be broken down into smaller pieces, that allows it to be bigger as it's then glued. All depends on the external diameter

S'manth kindly provided some string locks for my yet unstarted and undesigned headless bass. Very, very generous of her and very welcome. Thanks Rob

Looks fine to me all that matters is that you are happy with it

Hi Does anybody know where I can get non tapered 19mm maple cross plugs please? I've looked around and Google provides tapered croplugs from various suppliers but 19mm seems to be a non starter. I looked at making my own but before too long had a drill press, a load of maple and some plug making kits in my basket and circa £400 gone before sanity prevailed. Tha ka Rob

"I have no particular skills" - FTFY

Completely agree, I work in IT and should not find the Mod Dwarf intimidating but I do. It's hard work to get into it and make it sing. I suppose I could compare Amplitube and Bias FX 2 to a Windows computer as it's easy to get going and Mod Dwarf to a Unix box, difficult to get into and to make things happen easily but once you do understand it, incredibly powerful. As someone who has made a good career out of Unix, I am mortified I can't make the Mod Dwarf do what I want with zero issues 😩 New year and all that, so I'll have another go. Rob

This magnetic mat is similar to the mag mat on some of the Ender 3s. It works really well on PLA but I found PETG stuck so well it ripped. The magnetic steel satin ones from Prusa get around this but at a cost. I went through 7-8 mats before I moved to the Prusa. I would recommend everybody start with PLA and get used to that before moving to anything else. Keep it simple. Rob

It's worth checking the brass nozzle every week or so for tightness. As it heats and cools it can come loose. This is more of a problem with different metal Nozzles but still happens with brass. I use a square that I print to adjust the z offset. It's on the SD card I leave in the Prusa. It prints a 100mmx100mm square, one layer thick. Really allows you to get the z offset spot on. I'm away until the new year but will dig out the details when I'm back. The z axis offset is key as you've found out. Rob

Thanks for this. The nano particles made me think. I may invest in an enclosure and extractor. Not 100% certain what I would extract to though....

Did this ever get fixed?

Nah, big hammer is best. Don't underestimate a club hammer in the right hands.

There are a couple of things that you need to get right every time. 1. Bed levelling. This gives you the foundations of the print. Get this wrong anf your print won't stay put and you're wasting your time. I used a sheet of 80g paper. Not a business card or a thing too thick. The nozzle should just catch on the paper. Not jam the paper, just catch it. also this needs to be across the whole bed or at least the area you are printing. 2. First temp layer. Do a temperature tower. Download a temperature tower for PLA and print it to work out the correct temp. I assume you use PLA as your first filament as that's easiest. Ignore PETG and other filaments for the moment. 3. Clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol. Is the neo a magnetic mat? Or a glass bed? If these don't work post pics of what the output looks like. Rob

Quality control is rubbish. How did that pass? Mind you, could've DPDs fault. Wouldn't put it pass them...

That's a great photo. Any closer and you'd be in the orchestra

I posted that video in another thread😊

The top edge doesn't annoy me. It is quite smooth but for some reason looks horrible in the picture. Whst does annoy me are the very small differences in height in the components, probably due to small tolerance differences between machines. Doing the middle pick guard again is a few hours printing so no big deal. If you do 3d printing, you learn patience. Rob

The pick guard was supposed to be a single piece tailor made. My printer can't do it in one piece so it's an interim/possibly not interim solution. I might send the CAD file to a specialist company to make one but I wanted to get it working first. I was rather worried about hum but that's non existent. I may true different pickups as well. The wiring loom was adapted to put tiny screw connectors in so changing pickups is just unscrewing the cables. No soldering needed. Let's see how it goes. Rob

I'll probably play about with it over Xmas so as I open it up, I'll take more photos. Off to watch Arthur Christmas with the kids for the 97th time. Rob

Here you are. Depending on the light some things look worse or better. For instance the edge in the picture below looks like the dogs chewed it. Barely noticable when you look at it normally. You can also see the two unused screw holes in the middle pickguard. As the pickguard is strong enough with the screws it currently has, I'll reprint it without the holes. here you can just see the copper tape creating the Faraday cage. I may reprint the pickguards to cover it up. The light highlights blemishes quite well, which is a bit annoying. I am very picky, which is why I might still sand it, spray it and epxoy resin it so it's a good finish. Rob

Close up, its very industrial looking. As its made up of seven parts, they need to be joined together, so there are lines. Also as I use two printers to speed things up, there are slight variations. I have the original one which is now surplus, so after the new year, I'll fill, sand that one down, then paint it and try the epoxy resin as a finish. Not sure if I make a V3 or try a bass next. I've started collecting the bass bits as I have an idea for a headless but need to think about it some more before I commit. I've used an awful lot of black PETG on V1 and V2. I didn;t really count but suspect 5-7 rolls getting things right. I have an idea to use less filament but it needs to simmer for a few weeks as I think about it. Rob