rwillett

Small incremental changes, lower the gap distance, round off the edges would be two improvements that come to mind Anyway, they are in the post, Rob

I've looked at that and thought Mmmmm..... My problem is I get easily distracted by new shiny blingy things, or just anything really. I have a search on eBay at the moment for the parts for this, basically a decent neck and the rest I'll wing it. A reasonable bridge, and some cheap pickups. The article used a Harley Benton as a doner kit of parts. No idea if they are any good. It's pretty simple to print, thought it will take some time. At the end of the day though, are you going to have a better than £250 Telecaster? It will be different which is always good, but better than a basic Squier? Anyway we're going off topic. Rob

@TheGreek V2 are in the post now Lets not live on our laurels (which is rather apt I think) Rob

There are a number of programs that you need to master to be able to do 3d printing. As with all software, some programs are easy and some are really complicated. Simple 3d printing, e.g. simple blocks and curves can be done using quite simple software, more complicated stuff requires a good design program, a decent 3d slicer and the ability to think in 3d dimensions. However none of the programs are impossible to master and to learn how to use them, though all require a certain amount of time to be put in. Tye more time you put in, the more you get out. I have put more time into 3d printing than to playing the bass, so I'm less bad at 3d printing than playing (it's all relative). I use Fusion 360 as my main design program. I think I have tried every free version and every demo for 3d design software. However my tests might vary from a few hours to a few days. I do not claim to be an expert in any of them, just more familar with one or two.Depending on what you want to do, you may get away with simpler programs but a decent 3d design program takes time to learn. I gave up on F360 a few times as it's sometimes very odd to use. However the more time I put in, the better I got. The advantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. The disadvantage of F360 is a it's a full-on professional 3d design system and is specifically targeted at that audience. It's big, it can do anything but you have to learn to use it. You will not learn it in a weekend or even a month unless you are very good. t took my 3-4 months before I became familar enough not to tear my hair out in fristration. Thats not full time, thats a few hours a week. I strongly suspect that any other design program at F360 level will be just as complicated. Once you have F360 working and there are a lot of videos and the community help is very good, you design your stuff, and here's the pickup surrounds I did for @TheGreek You do a simple extrustion to get some depth to it and you get this You export this STL file to a 3d slicer for conversion from STL into a fileformat that a 3d printer uses. All a 3d printer does, is play battleships in 3 dimensions extruding out thin lines of plastic filament. You can control just about every single apsect of everything when printing, from the speed, the width of the lines, the temperature, the bed temperature to parameters that I have no idea what they do. I use PrusaSlicer as I have two Prusa MK3S+ printers which are probably considered high end prosumer devices. I used to have a Creality Ender 3 pro which is entry level and is very good. The Prusa's are a lot better but 4-5x the price each. Anybody starting should get a cheap printer and learn, you can pick them up for less than £200 now. PrusaSlicer converts the file you have loaded into gcode files that the printer understands. It also sends the output file to either an SD card that you manually insert into the printer or to something like Octoprint which is a network print server for 3d printers. The 3d printer will then work its way from the bottom of the object upwards and lay down a thin layer (e.g. 0.2mm) of filament as told. When doing the design you ned to think about overhangs and where support is needed, so sometimes you print the object in an unusual orientation to avoid an overhang. This is easier to demonstrate than to explain and once you've seen it, you understand The rings above took a few hours as I did them at a higher quality, but you can change to work in draft mode or just about anything else. As with all things, the best way to learn is to do it, to print simple things and move to complex things, here's a tube ring that is fully parameterised for mounting computers on telescopes. This version is approximately 200 versions along. Its taken 18 months to get to this. There's a lot of things in here to make it just right, Hope this helps as a primer to 3d printing. Rob

Because it's actually quicker, cheaper and easier to print it. You have to get appropriate plastic sheet, cut it neatly, cut holes in that are in the exact place to the right diameter, taper them for a counter sunk screw and then make two of them. I designed all of that in F360 in 10 mins and it'll take 90 mins to print even at a high resolution. If @TheGreek wants another one or two, or three or 99, I just print them off. It's the future I can do a nice tapered finish so the inside of the ring is perhaps 2.2mm tapering down to 1.8mm at the outside. Thats another two mins of design. Rob

If its what you put at the top, it's about 10 mins to design and an hour or so to print.

what do you need printing. So long as it fits on the bed it should be easy enough.

Love the build and if 1) you enjoy it and 2) you learn from it, thats worth it. I like it, it's classy, but the only person who needs to like it is yourself As I know little about this sort of stuff, why do you need someone to groove the nut please? Does this need to be very precise or it's an art rather than a science. Always happy to improve my ignorance (which is boundless) Best wishes Rob

I use these batteries for astrophotography. They can put out a lot of current at one time to handle the slew of a telescope mount motor thats loaded with a couple of kg of kit. 9VAh is quite a lot. They don't have multiple outputs which could be very useful, but I normally put a USB hub on and draw power from that which is not what most pedals can do However I leave it here as a possible solution, they are chunky and seem to last forever for me even in the cold. Rob

Oh my god. I think I’ve just had a very wet and possibly religious experience…

A man after my own heart

Thanks, thats reassuring. I do have a far too complicated sound setup using sound control for different speakers and for different meeting systemsand for <ahem> Battlefield 4 </ahem>. Now I know it works, I'll make more of an effort. Rob

It's not working for me either, Firefox/Chrome/Safari on Mac M1 Mini. Will look further, and might even power up a Windows laptop as a last resourt I am getting different errors and wonder if my firewall is getting in the way. I'll look over the day. Rob

True. We’ll split the profits 50/50

Saw that at BT Martlesham Heath in the 1980s', they took the C Pre-Processor and wrote a lot of macros so it resembled Basic but was really in C. Debugging that garbage was painful. In the end, I taught them how to use C to save my own sanity.

Just perusing the MOD github and I'm guessing that this is all Linux on a small PC board (RockChip PX30) with a tiny bootstrap (U-Boot) to load it in on power on. I've also found https://github.com/moddevices/mod-organizational-kernel/blob/master/organizational-kernel.md which is difficult to read, especially when it talks about "heroic acts" and similar. I think I need to rotate my brain by 90 degrees to understand it I can see an awful lot of forked Linux kernel stuff (which is fine), also some Arduino stuff (not sure how that fits in), but can't (yet) find a component model or something that shows how it all links together. I could imagine this is a custom Linux kernel with a load of real time optimisations. I can't see all the repositories so there may be something thats lower level still but it looks a lot like a custom Linux build. The secret sauce may be something like Apple does with Mac OS X, its actually Darwin under the covers and that is freely published code, the secret sauce is OS X on top of it. I did find the release folder (https://wiki.mod.audio/wiki/Releases) and downloaded the latest mod_dwarf release. It is GPG signed so not sure if thats to guarantee that its not been tampered with OR it can only be loaded by the mod_dwarf hardware. I'm a bit hazy on GPG and signing.

Very dangerous day is pay day .... Thats normally the day when I get a tax refund from HMRC. Decisions, decisions, decisions, personally speaking I'd go Mod Dwarf as it looks so much fun. if they do go under, it wouldn't be that difficult to get either that plugin store or another one setup relatively quickly. There's enough of a ground swell on them that somebody would pick this up. The only thing that I can think of that would throw a spanner in the works would be if they digitally sign their plugins, similar to how Apple signs the IOS upgrades. I didn't see that when I looked at how to write a plugin for professional curiosity, however I didn't look too hard in that area. I will look agin though Rob

We? Who’s this we? 😀

His description is wonderful: “A new neck and almost new body, but my tools slipped a couple of times so there are some scratches. A full pro set up by me in progress but I spoiled the new high G string so that one is different. New musicman bridge and a musicman humbucker... plus Marshall Amp knobs.” I honestly think that the guy is a genius and this is all performance art. He's playing a part and playing it very well indeed. One day we'll find out this is all part of the Turner Prize award.

I've a load of ShadowFoam left over from a project. I used it for toolboxes and it makes a great place to put 3d printers on to muffle the noise. Each sheet costs me about £10, I reckon I could get 200 out of a sheet at £8 each (undercut the opposition), therefore that makes it £1,590 profit for a £10 investment. Beats working for a living. Rob

For the first time in quite a long time, I am lost for words. Just why?

Andy, I keep saying I will learn the skills necessary to handle sharp objects, but never get around to it. I do take your point about having a solid work surface and one day when I eventually clear out the garage of the assorted things in there that should be in the tip, I will build myself a decent workbeanch that is solid and safe to use. In the meantime, I am more than happy to watch other people do these clever things. Now if you want the firmware of your local router rewritten or you happen to need a new compiler, reach out.... 😃 All the best and don't slow down for me Rob

>> Then use chisels and carpenters mallet to accurately cut the outline to around 10 mm deep: Thats where I've been going wrong, I use the chisels and carpenters mallet to inaccurately cut out something thats fairly close to the outline and at variable depth between 5mm and 15mm. Basically the dog could have chewed the hole with more accuracy than me and hand tools... In all seriousness I love watching craftsmen work and explaining how they do it. I will never approach this level of ability, so I can appreciate this all the more. Following this thread with great interest. Rob

After a lot of to and fro with their customer support (who were very good), and downloading loads of different tones, playing through a Fender Jazz and an El Cheapo Precision Bass Clone I never managed to get it sounding like I'd like it to. I did try it with a Westone 6-string electric and the Spark Go sounded very good indeed and if I was just after a little practise amp for lead and rhytmn practise, I'd keep the Spark Go, no questions at all. Also playing songs through Bluetooth from my iPhone was very good. Not quite as good as my Bose Soundlink but not bad at all. I'm kinda tempted to keep it and give it to my daughter who is learning to play guitar but I have a little Marshall practise amp thats probably better suited to her. We also have a NUX Mighty Plug which is even simpler to use than the Spark Go, the NUX is headphones only but thats the tradeoff for such a small size. I think the Spark Go is a great little amp for just everybody apart from bass players, so it'll have to go back, which is sad, because it's got so many things going for it, just not for me Rob