rwillett

I wouldn't quite go that far about the advertising TBH. It's a bit annoying and it appears on my laptop but not on the mobile. If it was a case of you sorting out medical issues vs advertising, it's 100% clear what you should do. And no it's not the advertising just to be clear 🙄

I have a number of good and bad buys. I have to say (at the risk of being expelled, excommunicated and otherwise labelled as a heretic) that the purchase of an 87 MIJ Strat from here, was one of my best buys of the year for me. Its a dammed fine guitar that just begs to be played. It's no showroom queen and it's all the better for it. It's great for songwriting so I actually play the bass more as well. A songwriting course in Kendal. I learnt so much from Ann Marie I want to do it again. Worst purchases Some crappy Fender guitar cables. Buy a decent cable from @Chienmortbb and just have done with it. The MS1-Vave Bluetooth adapter. Junk. Any purchase that I thought would short circuit me having to learn how to play bass guitar properly. I'm still learning and I expect to keep learning until the day I stop and there's nothing wrong with that. Am looking for a decent acoustic for next year and a decent precision to see what all the fuss is about. I also wouldn't mind a es355 if one fell in my lap. Rob

Not the NW? I feel offended.. 😩 Would have to agree with @neepheid here. We don't have that many Bass Bashes and to have two on the same day seems very unfortunate. Rob

Or better still none at all...

I love "Down By The Jetty". I had no idea it was done in mono after all these years. Shows how much I know. Wonderful album.

I've cut the grill to size and used Gorilla tape on the outside of the frame just to keep it clean tidy. I've printed some riser blocks for the outside of the grill that fit in the corners of the cabinet. The ones in the picture are far too large, but they're to check things out and I'll print some better ones shortly. These will be glued to the front of the baffle (NoNails) and will have a M3 nut embedded in them. The hole for the nut is aligned to the holes in the grille. On top of the riser block will be some adhesive rubber, 1mm thick), to stop vibrations. More riser blocks may be needed, but the principle is set now. I have the "advantage" of not gigging at the moment, as there's only me and the drummer, so little chance or marauding fans rushing the stage sadly. It's very, very likely that I'll design some M3 handbolts to screw into the riser block. These will probably have the felt washers that are on the guitar strap buttons to further reduce vibration (or may not). I designed a lot of hand bolts for astrophotography, you can check them out here (https://starclamps.com/), these are all parameterised so I have lots of options. I also have some nice brass ones somewhere which might look nice. The red corner pieces have been redesigned so that they don't protrude as far into the baffle area as before, to give the grill some some space. The hand bolts should allow the grille to be taken off easily, Once I've painted the baffle board matt black, most of the riser elements will simply disappear, well that's the idea. Lets see how it works. but I'm off from tomorrow to London so nothing will be progressing. Have a good Xmas all Rob

Sorry to hear about your partner. That's a real pain just before Xmas. Pass on our best wishes for a speedy recovery I have no idea what this thread all about, but it's really interesting. Rob

Has anybody ever managed to get the M-Vave Chocolate footswitch to connect to a Mod Dwarf using the MS1 wireless/Bluetooth USB adapter please? One of my Xmas projects was to get this working. I can get the foot switch to work if I use a USB cable, but I brought the MS1 adaptor as this thread suggested it would work https://forum.mod.audio/t/midi-chocolate-controller-with-the-mod-dwarf-an-introduction/7003 It turns out that in 225 posts in the above thread, not a single one talks with any detail about how they connected using the MS1. Also searching the internet gives zero information. Connect to a PC or Mac, yes, but not to the Dwarf. Any help or advice welcome Rob

I'm probably going to try to put a small 3d printed block under each corner with quite a strong magnet hidden away. Thats the lime green bit below. The magnet is 0.5mm under the surface of the plastic and so can't be seen. It will have a plug in the back of it and it *may* have some self adhesive foam under that to avoid rattling, I didn't think of the foam so thanks for that. I will also add some foam on the top of the mount between the plastic block and the grille as you suggested. Good ideas those. The block will be welded to the corner piece (thats the purple bit). Its welded, not glued as the "glue" melts the plastic together and forms a stronger bond than the plastic itself. Might be superglue, might be Floplast. if this doesn;t work, then the recesses battern is plan B Thanks Rob

I found a broken paving slab in the back garden and used that. Lo and behold, 15 mins later, it looks a lot better. Lesson here is don't use a softwood base (cut bad puns) to hammer against. Masked the area off and cut it with a Dremel and new cutting discs and the cutting is almost done. I forgot to take into account the rubber edges which hide the raw metal so it's possibly one row of holes too large in each direction. The blue tape is just to hold things together as the rubber edge really wants to curl off I'm still thinking about how to fix it to the speaker cab OR to the red corner pieces. Magnets might be the answer here. I have a lot of the strong ones and a simple addition to the red corner pieces might work well. A little bit of velcro through a few holes would allow it to be pulled off easily. With a black baffle board, it might look quite good for me. Rob

That's exactly what I am doing. I'm working 2-3cm from outside edge, carefully going round, trying to keep the rubber mallet full face onto the metal. Every so often, I turn the grille over so it's being bashed from both sides. I've done over an hour on it and it is slightly better, but if I look at it edge on, I can see where the bends were put in 2-3cm from the edge, its not as bad as it started with. I'm bashing against softwood and I wonder if that's the problem. I'm going to try and find something different to hit against, possible a paving slab or something, cover the slab with material. I can't use plywood and drive the car over it, as I've cut it up for speakers Rob

@Phil Starr How many days did you spend doing this please? I'm using a rubber hammer (tent posts) and it's very, very slow. Actually it's even slower than that, I think that tectonic plate movement is quicker, I actually noticed species evolving around me as I was doing this. I'm trying to keep the hammer face flat, it is on a wooden surface as I don't have a metal surface close to hand (or even to hand at all). Do I need a different "soft faced hammer". There seems to be loads of Amazon, but not sure what I'm actually looking for. Do I need a different work surface? I've also tried compressed the grille between two pieces of wood and that didn't make a lot of difference. The general concaveness has mostly gone, but it doesn't look very flat to me at all. As it's now raining, I'm focussing on wrapping Xmas pressies. All advice welcomed Thanks Rob

I hadn't noticed the Lego theme. The dimples on the top are for the second Basschat speaker. So I could run them together for a little more volume. I suspect that I wouldn't actually put them on top of each other but the option is there just in case. Now that I've seen that I might try and make the lego theme a little stronger 😊not sure how but I'll ponder on it.

No, they are spring loaded and lay flat quite well.

Finally put all the bits together (minus the top coat) and plugged it all in. By some miracle, the dammed thing works, not only does it work, but it sounds really good and it's really loud, at least in my dining room The corners are held on with double sided tape as they are supposed to come off later The rest of it is screwed together properly. The Warwick is held on by my "patent pending" mounting system. As can be seen, my "roadie", the CFO, has demonstrated that the Warwick is indeed securely held. I actually tried it in all orientations and it's rock solid. It can also be mounted on the back, but those rails aren't on the cabinet yet. No fears whatsoever it's going to fall off at all. I plugged a Strat in first and it sounds fine, I'm sure a purist might argue it's not a full range speaker (and it's not), but it sounded fine to me. Next up was my headless bass and that sounded fine as well. I did wind the volume up a little bit then and it's bloody loud. No way could I play this at any volume in a small room. I'd certainly gig with both bass and guitar with this. At small volumes it's also fine. The Warwick needs to be setup for guitar or bass with the tone controls. but I have to say the speaker sounds really good. Far better than the Ampeg Rocket 108 to be honest, though it's got significantly more invested into it than the practise amp has. The little rack to the side is a home made one with a Behringher Centaur overdrive, a Mooer compressor and a EHX tuner. The overdrive is not for the bass though. I sill need to get the Armacab on it but not this side of Xmas now Now to build the second one for a little more volume. Rob

As with many people, I have a load of 'rolls of stuff' that are a pain to keep on. e.g. copper tape or foam adhesive tape. Both comes on a cardboard roll but that has no sides and it falls out (or at least it does for me). So I had a think about it and have come up with this parameterised solution in Fusion 360. The nice bit is this reel comes apart and has a simple screw thread to screw together afterwards. As it's parameterised, everything is adjustable. So the above is 120mm for the reel size, the internal hub size is 75mm (which fits my copper tape rolls) and is 11mm between the reel sides. The copper tape is 10mm so a little bit of a gap. The screw thread automatically adjusts as well, which is great. Here's a larger version that just has the parameters changed. I'll try and upload the Fusion 360 file Rob

Yep that's what I'm going to do

And CPC have delivered some stuff. As Phil has already suggested, it neatly fits. The middle of the grille is raised (or the edges are lowered), I'll have a look and work out what to do here. Cut and flatten or flatten and cut? As the weather is miserable, no painting today.But I have worked out how to integrate the rubber feet into the corner clamps and to allow two of these cabs to be on top of each other. Not sure that's a sensible idea, but the option is there. Rob

Hi This belonged to my father-in-law. It's from 2014, runs Android 4.1 (ish) and works. It doesn't have the propriety power cable needed as it appears to have got lost in the house clearance. These are £4 from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/TECHGEAR-Cable-Compatible-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B00ADV2YM8 It has about 50% of the power on it and has been factory reset. No scratches and it's clean and tidy though it looks grubby in the pictures. Its not It comes with a box. This is not the latest and greatest Android tablet. It works and I think it can be upgraded to Android 5 and possibly further with custom ROM's. It might make a good media player or similar but I wouldn't expect it to be a viable alternative to a modern tablet. Happy to post for free and you will get it for Xmas (assuming Royal Mail works) Rob

I have a WO66 shortie which is really nice, quite easy to balance without hauling an EQ6 around. I also have a TMB 100m F8 APO. This needs an EQ6 at least and is a fabulous scope but is so large and heavy it never gets used as my two slipped discs immediately complain just looking at the scope. I know what you have done with the above, the really impressive bit (thought it's all impressive) is the cooling on the Canon (at least to me), that's really difficult to get just right. Everybody has gone Zwo, apart from me. Anyway back to the cab making. Rob

Thanks. Just noticed that one side looks like it's covered in white filler, it's not. I've filled and sanded, filled and sanded. Whilst the Armacab should hide imperfections, I'd rather not have to hide anything.

I do like that. A good old EQ6 and is that an 80mm cell? Looks like a Canon and a Zwo (?). What's the box on the Canon hidden behind the focuser? Looks like a peltier cooler or something similar. Interested to know why it's on the side, though must be a good reason. Rob

Good to know that there may be little smell. I also looked at speaker grills and spent a long time thinking through how to print one in four pieces and join it together using superglue, a special jig and all sorts of hard work until a rare bout of common sense broke out. Previously people had mentioned using an 18" speaker grill and cutting it down. I've just checked the sizes for this against the 8" speaker cab and of course when you lay it out, they were right and I was surprised (and wrong). The dashed straight lines show the inside of the 8" speaker cab, the large dashed circle is the cutaway for the Fane speaker and the small dashed circle is the port. The large solid circle is an 18" speaker grille and the smaller solid circle is a 300mm speaker grille. So the 18" speaker grille is pretty much a perfect fit, though it will need cutting down and flattening, though I can't see that being a major issue with a rubber hammer, a Dremel and a decent cutting wheel (or rather a few of them). For circa £10 per grille, this is a very cheap way to get a grille plus an hour or so of cutting. The other option is a small bit of rectangular hardboard with two large circles cut out with some speaker cloth which still might look nice. This is the speaker lightly sanded with some filler and the corners checked for fit. These will actually be glued on with "No Nail" rather than screwed. A little more sanding just to tidy up the front. You can just about see the t-nuts inside on the back for holding the Warwick Gnome on using slider rails. There are the same fittings on the top so the Warwick can be on the top or the back. There are holes on the side for grab handles. I don't use a strap for picking it up as I wanted the Warwick to have the option of top mounting as well as back mounting. Not sure I can paint it until I have worked out the speaker grille and how to fit it so I can easily take it on and off. I'm tending to think I mask off the corner piece areas before the Aracab goes on but would welcome thoughts.

You can do anodising in the garage , it is affected by cold weather but you need to heat the solutions up anyway, you do have high current and the chemicals aren't fantastic, TBH they aren't very good at all,, but decent space, power, fresh air, respirator and slightly loose lids on containers make it potentially doable outside in the garage. Not that I'm looking to try it (yet). Painting with these special tough paints, especially with a roller, seems less desirable. I have to confess to using some paints and stuff sometime ago that stank to high heaven, and for some reason t'CFO isn't keen to repeat the exercise. I have no sense of smell (lost it 2014) so I have no issues which is part of the problem, she can smell it and I can't. Rob