rwillett

After a lot of stroking of the chin, I decided to try and test the tweeters using: A 9V battery A small amplifier Battery test I disconnected the tweeter input legs from the chock blocs and put a 9V across them. I could hear a distinct click as I put power on them. Nothing more. I am assuming that indicates they are probably working. Small amplifier I <ahem> borrowed my daughters little amp, looks like this. Then realised I had nothing that that had a phone input to drive the amplifier. So I 'borrowed' my youngest daughters rather elderly iPad which actually has a headphone socket on it. My iPhone and iPad doesn't have a headphone out. Connected a set of speaker wires to one side, plugged the iPad in and then realised my youngest is a massive Taylor Swift fan and that was all she had. <sigh> I disconnected the Eminence speaker and connected the wires so it went to all of the four tweeter array. I could hear Taylor Swift. However the music sounded very tinny, quite poor quality and very quiet. That is not a passive-aggressive comment on Taylor Swift. I'm not sure what it should sound like through four tweeters. I would have thought better than this though. I then connected the Eminence speaker up and tried again and it sounded fine. So I'm still unsure if I have a tweeter problem or not. Just the tweeters sounded rubbish to me. I have no idea if the tweeters would sound reasonable, it sounded like a 1950's 1" speaker in a crap transistor radio. Any comments welcomed. Thanks Rob

I'm not 100% physically. The infection took a lot out of me but I;m slowly building strength back up. It'll be a few more weeks before I'm 100% physically. Thanks Rob

It's been a few weeks since I started this. Sadly I was hospitalised after a nose op went wrong and I enjoyed the hospitality of Bradford Royal Infirmary for a while. This has not been forgotten though. The design has now been finalised and printed up. Here's some earlier designs. This was rejected as I wanted the control panel area to be a panel to and bottom. This is the latest design, with all four pieces glued in. The frame is very stiff and the glue is as strong as the filament so twisting it to breaking point could be anywhere on the frame, not at the joints. The next steps are lightly sanding down the rough areas. This is printed at 0.2mm height and the fastest speed the Prusa can do. I have sacrificed a little quality for speed, but as the frame will be sanded, filled, sanded, covered,sanded primed, sanded, painted, lightly sanded and then finally multiple coats of a finish, the reduction in quality will not make any difference. I know this because I've tested it. I am aiming to have zero printing lines visible so its indistinguishable from any other type of non FDM finish. It does have the tummy cut at the top but I'll show that later. I'm also trying to do the same design for a bass as well Thanks Rob

That's what worries me....

It's a bit bad when I'm considered the normal, sane one...

Via North Yorkshire....

What! Have you discussed this with the powers that be? I'm fairly certain that the laws of physics still hold true where I live regarding space and time. Rob

Those tweeter specs are helpful, thank you. My problem is that nobody in Europe appears to stock the Goldwood. GT-1016. There is this thread from 2007 (!) on alternatives https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11162 The following are supposed to be alternatives, but I can't find anyone who can confirm they are good alternatives and work. Pulse PLS00306 <-- Can't find anywhere near to me Monacor MPT-016 <-- Available at Thomann (https://www.thomann.co.uk/monacor_mpt_016.htm) Quite expensive each. GRS PZ1016 NPeople have claimed that these are a replacement and the model number indicates at least a relationship to the Goldwood but are 4Ohm as opposed to 8Ohm, noit sure if this is an issue TBH. Available at https://www.soundimports.eu/en/grs-pz1016.html I have been offered something from a kind basschatter so will enquire there first. Also it may well be that the issue with all of this is a simple wiring issue and a fault finding check may find the issue. My issue is still that I'm unclear on how to fault find a piezo speakers. Thanks Rob

@Hellzero The thread about the crossover, oddly enough from @neepheid, is here https://www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26505 I believe that the view from Bill was that nothing else is needed for his design apart from the resistor. I'm no expert here, hence this thread Certainly the box as it came to me had nothing more complicated than a square resistor as shown in the picture. It may well be that it should have had something more complicated in place and has never worked, but given the (high) quality of the build. I suspect it has worked properly in the past. I have nothing to back this up, but would love to get this small cab working to its full potential. @bertbass Thanks for this. That phrase "the resistor is there to prevent ultrasonic oscillations" rings a bell as I have read that in Bills forum as I've been investigating this further. I appreciate all the help, I'll try and work out what to do next. Thanks Rob

Terry That is a really nice and as @Hellzero has said, very generous, offer. I'll be in touch. Really appreciate this Thank you.

I was kindly given a bass cab, which appears to be an Omni 10.5. This looks a well made cabinet with four piezo electric tweeters and a decent speaker. There is a toggle switch on the back which looks like it switches the four tweeters in and out. Playing through the cabinet with a Warwick Gnome V2 works well and there are no issues with the main speaker. However toggling the switch appears to make no impact on the sound. I do not hear any higher notes or any change in sound quality. I've tested the toggle switch and that works fine. Opening the speaker up, and looking at the toggle switch, I can see a simple 'crossover' resistor which according to my multimeter measures the right value. I also note that when I got the cabinet a tweeter cable was disconnected and I *think* I put it back in the right place. I'm trying to work out if there is a wiring mistake somewhere OR one or more tweeters isn't working. The tweeters are buried in the cabinet amongst all the foam but it appears to me before I trace the wiring that they are in series and parallel, I'm guessing that this is to present either 8 Ohms or 4 ohms to the cabinet. The tweeters have no information on them apart from a sticker saying 0807. Goolge doesn't help here. I'm aware that piezo electric speakers cannot be easily measured by the ohm rating but should be measured by their capacitance OR by putting a small battery across the tweeter terminals and listening for a click OR by connecting them to a low powered amplifier and seeing if they work. I happen to have a dedicated capacitance meter but no matter which tweeter I measure I get a reading of 0.641 when set to the 2uF range on the meter. I'm way out of my depth here and and contemplating just junking the four tweeters and trying to get four other tweeters that might work. However I have no idea what the current speakers are and so I may be making things worse. I have no issues soldering any new tweeters, but I can easily see myself being back where I started from and absolutely no further forward and £30-£40 down and a lot more frustrated. I don't know if the tweeters are 4 ohm or 8 ohm or could be something else and I certainly don't want to blow up up Gnome. One thing that occurs to me is to simply find the two wires that feed the tweeter array and put a small (and cheap) amp onto them to see if it makes a sound. However not sure if a small little amp is the right approach. Any advice on what the next steps should be is greatly welcomed. Thanks Rob

Yes

No feedback. I've seen postage errors loads of times to be honest. The lack of feedback is the issue for me. Half price isn't bad. Realistically priced is one way or looking at it. The AI slop is crap as normal

Hi I'm about to order 4 piezeo speakers for an Omni 10.5 kindly donated by @neepheid (who apparently is searching for capacitors as I write this). I believe the originals were Goldwood 1016's but these seem to be somewhat more difficult to find than an honest politician. Recommendation for a replacement looks like the GRS PZ1016 https://www.soundimports.eu/en/grs-pz1016.html OR the Monacor MPT-06 https://www.thomann.co.uk/monacor_mpt_016.htm Both have high shipping costs relative to the costs of components, though Thomanns tweeter is nearly 3x the price of the GRS one. Is anybody interested in a lareger order OR does anybody have 4 x Goldwood 1016;s OR Monacor MPT-06 OR GRS PZ1016 tweeters they want to sell and move on,. Thanks Rob

Welcome. Nobody has too much gear. You just haven't yet found a use for it all 😊 Rob

For $14,500 I'll take my rather nice Jazz and pull half the frets out with my teeth. My kids (now 18 and 16) have loads of sparkly painting stuff left over from when they were five, I've got some PVA glue and I'll pour a mm or two all over it. Both my daughters went through a very pink sparkly stage at 5-6 years old, so we have kgs of the stuff left over for something or other. This is that something. I'll do it dirt cheap at around $10k and I'm cutting my own throat at that price.

1. Rich - Trace Elliot TE-1200 amp, Barefaced Super 12T cab, earplugs , Shuker custom 5, Tanglewood TRB-CE acoustic bass gtr. 2. Woody - Rickenbacker 4004-L5, maybe Sei Flamboyant, Same old basschat 12" with some amp, other stuff TBC 3. Pinball (tbc) - some interesting basses 4. Stubsy - Joyo BadASS, GRBASS AT212 slim - only 50W but that should give 120dB at one metre 😇. (or I bring my TE 1110 combo). Some fun pedals. Perhaps the AVII 1960 precision, the Sire P10 and maybe the Fender Performer and something unexpected... 5. Sean - Mesa 400+, Laney Nexus Tube 400 [oh jeez], MJW Taranis 200 (Filthbox Matamp clone with extra channel and EQ), GK MBF500, GK Fusion 550, 2 x LFSys Monaco, 2 x Japanese Market Spector Euros with LHZ-03 preamps, Valenti #005 Super P, Yamaha BB1300, my small but well-appointed pedal-board (Origin Cali 76, Origin DCX, Aguilar Chorusaurus, etc) plus a mini walk-in bass surgery if interested. Plus whatever I might be selling at the time. 6. Rosie - likely I'll bring my upright, set up for bluegrass/folk/jazz if anyone's not played upright before and fancies a go 7. Phil - BassChat cabs, maybe some sort of shootout? 8. MikeD - Laney Digbeth, Zilla 212, Dingwall Combusion, Revelation PJ, pedals, try to finish home made bass🤞🤞🤞🤞 9. neepheid - G&L CLF L-1000, Yamaha BB1200, Sire D5, Sire Z7, Greco LGB-700, Reverend Triad, Epiphone Les Paul (not so) Standard, Epiphone Thunderbird '64, Squier Jaguar H (with Ibanez CAP double humbucker from ATK200/800 etc), Gear4Music rat bass (with Lace Aluma-P), £150 giggable bass challenge, 1 or 2 amps depending upon space... 10. Jabba_the_gut - Note sure what stuff yet........10. Jabba_the_gut - Status 3000, Status 4000, Stingray 4, USA Sub 5, Markbass Tube, some pedally bits inc Valeton GP5 cheaply thing 11. Wolverinebass - Grainger Hades, HX Stomp, GK Fusion 1200s. 12. Japanaxe - Precision(s) & Dingwall(s), DIY 100W Bassman head if finished by then(!) as people seemed to like my B15 clone, At least 1 other amp (see sig) 13. JohnDaBass - Fender Imp combo, Fender Mike Kerr Jaguar, Fender Stu Hamm Urge 1, HB ThunderStang, Squier Paranormal Rascal, Mark Bass Bronco ( very yellow), Ashdown Capri ( very Pink) 14. Geek99 (tentative) - sire v7 5 string (rapidly becoming my favourite bass ever), vintage est96a (punches above its weight as judged by basschat midlands massive and Stub Mandrel), Tc electronic bh250 and A cab that was dragged out of the sea (Possibly) but only cost £10 15. chienmortbb - Fender Aerodyne AJB65, G4M pretend aerodyne, Sire Narcus M2 (possibly for sale. Ashdown Restoglide 800 and Bugera Veyron 1001M, LFSys Monza cab. Possibley a number of accessories for sale. I might have to rrim the list as I am due an op shortly and am not allowed to lift anything for 6 weeks. You will notice me as the bloke with no trousers. 16. Richard R. - Brawley 4 and 5 string basses, Ashdown ABM C300-100+15"extension, Roland V-Bass COSM system pedalboard plus HB Musicman fitted with hex pickup, headphone amp, raffle prizes. Hopefully my son and his Ibanez. Definitely trousers. V-bass system and bass possibly for sale. 17. Scrumpymike - Gillett Contour ST; Harley Benton MV-4MSB Gotoh BM; Rascal Mervyn-Lyte (Fender Rascal re-bodied a-la P Lyte by Andy Jr); Sandberg California ll SL TM 4 SHORT with recent Aguilar upgrade; Vox Starstream A2S; Ampeg SVT-7 PRO; Fender Rumble 100 combo; BF Super Compact Gen 3; LFSys Monaco. 18. rwillett - Depending on what space @neepheid leaves me in the car, Fender Jazz, 3d printed headless, 3d printed jazz & 3d printed six string (if I finish them both), Jazz Bitsa, Matching Westone 1A Guitar and Bass, Mustang Bass, Gnome Pro V2, some sort of large speaker that was donated. Possibly a Strat and.or Tele to provoke sharp intake of breath, Tonex and Mod Dwarf. If he brings too much, either he's sitting on the roof bars or I am

No longer needed as work has given me a nice new HP laptop. This was my spare travel PSU. Its the 65W 1706 model, comes with the cloverleaf lead and UK plug and the stupid Microsoft dedicated power connector rather than the USB-C that the rest of the world uses, apart from Apple and Microsoft. There is a special place in hell reserved for the executives tw*ts who thought they were being clever and generating revenue for their companies by using propriety connectors. Sadly it works so I can't just fling it in recycling. It has a massive number of ports, no I'm lying, it has a single USB-A 2.0 port. You can connect a mouse, wow, just wow. These are approx £11 on eBay new, I'll send it for the absolutely nothing simply to get get rid of it. Amazon has it for the extortionate price of £14. Here's the Amazon link to it https://amzn.eu/d/bsMPodm If you need it, this means you have a MS Surface Pro and nothing I can say or do will make life any better for you. My suggestion is to change jobs for an employer that values you. Rob

Hi This is no longer needed. It's a plastic front and rear for a Macbook Air M1 A2337. Other models may fit. I'm pretty certain it's one of these and the colour is very similar to this but but can't say its Pastel Orange. https://amzn.eu/d/aXM6zgi There's a load of surface scratches and one corner is slightly cracked. However its better than having nothing on your expensive Macbook Air. I'll even post for free. Rob

Good to hear it's resolved. A new amp thread is always interesting as well

When I think of a snappy reply you are in so much trouble

I can certainly be the Chosen One to eat cake. I am being very specific here. I shall rise to the occasion and be the very best person who eats cake in a controlled and repeatable manner.

This needs to be fun and informative. My interest is smallish speakers, much as I would love a double American sized fridge of Ampeg speakers, let's be realistic (for me). Small, powerful enough and cost effective. I have not used the word cheap. Small to fit into a sensible car, powerful enough for a small club and drummer, cost effective so I only blink once at the price.

This is the best and only way to check and remove all biases. Easy enough to do in principle, though there may be issues with speaker connections and impedence. Very happy to help but once we have 4 amps and 4 cabs there are 16 combinations to connect and disconnect and play through. So it could take some time. Also will you simply put a looper pedal to play something through or will some poor sod have to play the same pieces exactly the same way. They would have to played at the same volume as well, as a louder or softer output would be perceived differently. I would also expect some people to say that their amp plays slap better than non slap and no this 12" speaker is designed specifically for this amp and that's why it's not a fair comparison. I've just participated in a double blind medical test so decided to understand a bit more about it so read a lot on how biases creep in. After saying all this, excellent idea and happy to help.

Pmed you