sandy_r

...got to love eB*y: "Used: ... The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear"

Hah - Snap!

...and that's not counting the boost to the Raffle when Neep offers Photo Opportunities with his new Explorer for a tenner a pop! 😉 (bring yer own Nigel Tufnel wig!)

Ditto, thanks

ooooh - i hope its Bash, rather than no Bash ...i've just had to book the car hire!

thanks for the kind words - much appreciated! sometimes seemingly endless discussions can be answered by a quick test - on this occasion i was able to contribute (...i think!) get yer tinker on! 😉

You seem to be mistaking me for someone who's trying to fix something

That's what the OP did, too, oddly He's now trying to find out which of the elements in his board chain got trashed by the site supply - at the last count, he had a problem without a solution

Let's hope that those of the products in your list, which are powerbanks for the 9V pedal market, rely on better tech than their advertising, going on the apparent lack of market penetration to their intended customers,- there's been mention of applying UPS tech to the OP problem in some threads [Edit] To recap on the 2 points of my initial post, to help with TL;DR:- 1) Yes, you can use an offboard powerbank and voltage step-up converter to power an active bass. It can be done without adding switching noise from the converter. Why you would want to do it though is up to you (and your powerbank may auto power-off anyway) 2) It's possible to power small-to-medium pedalboards using a regular phone-type powerbank and low-cost voltage-converters without having to revert to the cost and weight of UPS systems (Compare the costs/features for your power needs - you may not need to spend £££+ on a Falken 1, Joyo JP-05, etc)

but apparently not widely known (cf. recent threads)

No worries - cheers!

Do you happen to know the approx total current draw of the 6 pedals?

Good call @Hellzero there is at least 1 Trace Elliot GP7 rack preamp on eB*y: https://www.ebay.it/itm/Trace-Elliot-GP7-SM/394630523493?hash=item5be1cfea65:g:umcAAOSw-XFkZS53&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAAwDRyVlR40kkQHR2A34RMnDORIs8Lf+RI+yqRUkFyxFzlM+5qnfJDya8Yz0CE51spcg9KDh1P8KuWYwRCohlFqMaZv+86vpw79/jyjHgsDHyEUMleNhwiz5wd3vXOD8lsZHg14ZP/mwOxx1yJPBswUrb9By0mr9rf375iJB2zFCWRV3LF/iiZv38yuVwyhvtpkfEoaPkv5Ahfzxcpm/So7QjfWsRhVbuj+YfRGW4liDWMPvL3HL4q22++vkSyQG89fQ==|tkp:Bk9SR5b4t87QYg&pageci=b7c87fe7-5116-4c42-a80e-a680d7667b00&redirect=mobile

There have been a few threads recently (some linked below) which have discussed the possibility/advisability of powering active basses using an external battery or powerpack - there's also been some mention of pedalboard faults, possibly due to bad mains purity With a few spare components, I've been able to check out the suggestion by @fleabag, and others, to see what happens when you use a powerbank, via 5V to 9V adaptor to power an active bass (NB I'm not suggesting you should -merely testing if you could!) Another topic which has arisen recently is the possible susceptibility of pedalboards (or their PSUs) to bad mains supplies - powerbanks could be an entry-level into providing mains-independent supply for boards, without having to go full-UPS For this test, I connected a 5V-to-9V step-up converter in a USB to 2.1 DC jack adaptor cable (£4.15 incl delivery, from *B*y, etc) to my Belkin 10000mAh powerbank, soldered a 2.1 inline socket to a PP3 cable/plug (reversing Red/Black polarity, because this cable is now the 'PP3') I removed the PP3 in my active bass and connected the powerbank/step-up in its place, plugged the bass into my preamp and listened to the output on phones - it worked, no unexpected noise - and then, after a minute or so, it stopped! The low current of my DIY onboard pre was not sufficient to make the Belkin think it had a load connected, so it autopowered-off (dayyum - it would have been ok if my bass was festooned with LEDs!) Anyway, on to the other use - powering pedalboards - it does look like this approach just using a (negative-centre?) 2.1 jack, not PP3 connector, would provide mains-independant power to a pedalboard - eg. with a (true rated) 10,000 mAH powerbank the converter could supply around 800mA for 12.5 hours, so might be useful to supply small-to medium-sized boards where the quality of the mains supply is not up-to-spec** (**NB problems caused to amps & pedals, by mains gensets, can be due not only to voltage level, but also by the frequency & waveform shape of the supply)

Have you considered getting a preamp (suitable to give TE sound), which you can then use at home/small gigs with phones/small combo (bypassing EQ using FX return), and then get a 'clean' higher-powered amp (which could be low-cost Class D, also low-weight) to drive your 112 cab?

Ahhh - nothing so grand 😞 Just an unremarkable Aria Sinsonido, now fretless If I get on ok with the LaBellas then I may introduce them to my Yamaha & DIY fretless basses also thanks again for the help with the guage/tension question

Bummer! It's a series system fed by a parallel system - plenty fun to troubleshoot, but unless you get lucky picking at random then a stage-by-stage check is needed Since the Caline is common to all, a quick 1st check would be to remove that completely from the equation and thoroughly test it with a decent load, before then checking each pedal without the Caline. It might be a pain, but do you have the individual psu for each pedal? or someone to borrow a PSU from? When checking the pedals (one by one), try different/same patch cords - I'd leave the wireless link disconnected 'til last so wireless signal issues don't muddy the water (use instrument cable until all checked?) keep a note of what you checked - compile a 'good' list if you get more gigging opportunities, in the meantime, try and split the pedals into 'good' and 'unchecked' sections and confirm which section of the chain is behaving or otherwise A neat approach to homing in on something with many sections is the 'binary chop' - divide the problem into 2 'halves', one half should be ok, the other iffy. Then divide the iffy half into 2 sections and repeat. If you had 8 items to check, you should always be able to get to the dodgy one in 3 steps, rather than maybe taking as many as 8 steps, depending on where the issue is in the chain. 16 items will only take 4 test steps, etc (patch cables count as an item to test!) Just some ideas from an old geezer. Good luck, hope you get it sorted soon

...was that when he was playing with Big Brother and the Holding Company, back in 1984? [...i'll er, let myself out, then...]

Greetings from across the globe! I'm a newbie on BC, too (but long in the tooth) - I hope you find, as I have here already, some new friends and maybe some new info, about everything bassic (!)

good catch ...wonder if it's ever been played?

ah ok - I read that as a nominal scale reference, rather than a measured distance (eg, I need Standard scale strings for my bass, but it measures 34.5")

oops - missed this post - apologies! No I meant the open string intonation length - no worries... Thanks for your prompt and detailed help, @Hellzero and @Soledad - a set of shiny new LaBella white flats are flying their way to me, right now! I owe you folks a Leffe, Guinness, etc

Lovely guitar!! Thanks for the photos, incl closeup of headstock & strings - yes, I think my situation will be like your top string, which looks like the tape part has wound 1x on the peg If the ball is only just hidden inside a string slot in your bridge, then I guess there is less than 1" of silk before the bridge (ie. before the nut, on my bass) If you know it, what is the length between bridge and nut on that bass, please? (no rush) many thanks for sharing

I found a much better demo of the LaBella Whites, than the one I found before, and I can see that they're something special, thanks I checked the LaBella site and they give their recommended measuring process to check which of their string lengths are needed - my bass is headless, a ball to bridge length of 35.5", with the ball only about 1" from the nut and the nearest 2 tuning heads about 1.25" from the bridge This means I'd need their 38" 'Standard/Long' strings ('cause their medium is 34.25"), but then there would still be: 38 - (35.5 + 1.25) = 1.25 of tapewound left needing to go round the 2 nearest tuning pegs I believe I've seen another BChatter mention that their tapewounds split & started unravelling when they had to wind the tape part onto pegs, so I now have a follow-up question: Is it ok to wind an inch+ of the spare tapewound onto the pegs? If not, then how to proceed? Thanks if you can help

Ok, that's interesting, thanks folks! I was tending to dismiss LaBella Whites after watching a fretless demo of them on YT and thinking they didn't sound much different to the groundwounds I use currently I'll have a trawl thro YT some more and see if I can find a wider range of EQs for a better comparison Yes, it's definitely more 'mwaaah' and less 'twwang' that I'm after cheers